Lots of work on my GT
05-03-2006, 04:59 PM
#11
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 15,042
RE: Lots of work on my GT
Ok Im going to try to answer some of your quetsions here....
ORIGINAL: Norway302
Hi all
I have recently bought a -79/-88 Pacecar/GT 5.0, and its a great car and i`m starting to fall in love with it and its potential
It has a carburated 5.0 with Boss heads, and some other mods. Its not a screamer, but it works and its pretty fast.
I`m going to do lots of mods on it, so i have many questions. I`m kinda rookie on Mustangs and V8s.
First of all i need to do some bodywork and new painting. I have already removed the moulding on one door. Are the mouldings re-usable? They seemed to be kind of bad condition and they was very bent when i took it off.
Where can i eventually get new mouldings? I am not 100% sure if the moldings are reusable but IMO I would not reuse them. I am sure that you could just bent them back and use some double sided sticky tape (good tape not cheap sh*t) but I would not attempt it. You can get new moldings at 50resto.com Just search around thier site.
Are the GT skirts just screwed in place? Is there something i should be aware of when i remove them?
The same goes for the wing..? There will be holes for the rivets. I am not sure if you plan on taking them off and leaving them off of not but if you do there will be holes.
Interior is the worst part of the car, and i really dont know what to do with it. All the plastic has been red once, and is just sprayed black - and has of course started to fall of now. It also has roof hatch with rusty frame and in generally bad condition. (Should i remove it and weld the thing togheter?) For the interior, you can sand it down and try to repaint them but painting black over red is not too smart of an idea. If anything gets scratched deep enough to show the red it will look like crap. You might want to try the forums, ebay and other Mustangs restoration websites for random interior pieces in any color that you wish. Once again, 50resto has alot.
There are great Recaro seats in the front, but the original backseats really suck, so does most of the other interior (roof, floor, doors etc). You can get new seats from 50resto.com. But if you do not want to pay the money check the forums, ebay and junkyards.
The instrument dash is ok, so i`m gonna keep that - and that is also the original -79 Pacecar dash.
Should i just tear out everything and replace it? Where can i buy new interior-stuff? Once again, lol 50resto.com and others.Also all window sealings need to be changed, so i need to know where i can buy that too...
So for the fun part
Engine: I`m looking to buy a turnkey carburated 400+ hp 302, 306, 347 or something other bolt-on that also can handle some 100-150hp nitrous. Where is the best place to buy this? I have a New Jersey shipping adress, so it would be great to buy local from a shop nearby. I`m looking for a fully streetable engine. There are a few places in Jersey that can provide a nice turn key motor for you. Google is your friend. I also know of a place called Outrageous Mustangs that I have heard great things about. For starters though, you will be pushing to limits of a stock 5.0 block if you take a 400hp motor and throw a 150 shot on it. It can be done but your pushing the boundaries. Personally, it would be alot cheaper just do go with a 351W build. It will supply more power, WAY more reliability (than a 347), and still keep the budget low.
Trans: What trans should i look for to this engine? It really depends on what you are looking for. Do you want a manual transmission or an automatic transmission? You can get a build AOD from a few places (lentech, PA, etc.). You could also go with a Performance Automatic C4 which is basically a 3spd automatic that you have to shift yourself (reverse manual valve body). OR you can go the route of a 5 or 6spd transmission. You can go with a stock/built T-5 (not recommended) or you can go with a nicely built TKO which would hold up quite well. It all depends on your budget.
Rearend: Any ideas ? The stock rearend would hold up fine. The 8.8 is a very strong rear and you will be nowhere close to pushing its limits. If you decide to build the 8.8 just get a rebuild kit for it along w/ some gears and a nice limited slip. Of coarse you will need stronger axles along with it. If you have the extra cash to throw around you can do a 9' rear.
Thanks in advance
Hi all
I have recently bought a -79/-88 Pacecar/GT 5.0, and its a great car and i`m starting to fall in love with it and its potential
It has a carburated 5.0 with Boss heads, and some other mods. Its not a screamer, but it works and its pretty fast.
I`m going to do lots of mods on it, so i have many questions. I`m kinda rookie on Mustangs and V8s.
First of all i need to do some bodywork and new painting. I have already removed the moulding on one door. Are the mouldings re-usable? They seemed to be kind of bad condition and they was very bent when i took it off.
Where can i eventually get new mouldings? I am not 100% sure if the moldings are reusable but IMO I would not reuse them. I am sure that you could just bent them back and use some double sided sticky tape (good tape not cheap sh*t) but I would not attempt it. You can get new moldings at 50resto.com Just search around thier site.
Are the GT skirts just screwed in place? Is there something i should be aware of when i remove them?
The same goes for the wing..? There will be holes for the rivets. I am not sure if you plan on taking them off and leaving them off of not but if you do there will be holes.
Interior is the worst part of the car, and i really dont know what to do with it. All the plastic has been red once, and is just sprayed black - and has of course started to fall of now. It also has roof hatch with rusty frame and in generally bad condition. (Should i remove it and weld the thing togheter?) For the interior, you can sand it down and try to repaint them but painting black over red is not too smart of an idea. If anything gets scratched deep enough to show the red it will look like crap. You might want to try the forums, ebay and other Mustangs restoration websites for random interior pieces in any color that you wish. Once again, 50resto has alot.
There are great Recaro seats in the front, but the original backseats really suck, so does most of the other interior (roof, floor, doors etc). You can get new seats from 50resto.com. But if you do not want to pay the money check the forums, ebay and junkyards.
The instrument dash is ok, so i`m gonna keep that - and that is also the original -79 Pacecar dash.
Should i just tear out everything and replace it? Where can i buy new interior-stuff? Once again, lol 50resto.com and others.Also all window sealings need to be changed, so i need to know where i can buy that too...
So for the fun part
Engine: I`m looking to buy a turnkey carburated 400+ hp 302, 306, 347 or something other bolt-on that also can handle some 100-150hp nitrous. Where is the best place to buy this? I have a New Jersey shipping adress, so it would be great to buy local from a shop nearby. I`m looking for a fully streetable engine. There are a few places in Jersey that can provide a nice turn key motor for you. Google is your friend. I also know of a place called Outrageous Mustangs that I have heard great things about. For starters though, you will be pushing to limits of a stock 5.0 block if you take a 400hp motor and throw a 150 shot on it. It can be done but your pushing the boundaries. Personally, it would be alot cheaper just do go with a 351W build. It will supply more power, WAY more reliability (than a 347), and still keep the budget low.
Trans: What trans should i look for to this engine? It really depends on what you are looking for. Do you want a manual transmission or an automatic transmission? You can get a build AOD from a few places (lentech, PA, etc.). You could also go with a Performance Automatic C4 which is basically a 3spd automatic that you have to shift yourself (reverse manual valve body). OR you can go the route of a 5 or 6spd transmission. You can go with a stock/built T-5 (not recommended) or you can go with a nicely built TKO which would hold up quite well. It all depends on your budget.
Rearend: Any ideas
? The stock rearend would hold up fine. The 8.8 is a very strong rear and you will be nowhere close to pushing its limits. If you decide to build the 8.8 just get a rebuild kit for it along w/ some gears and a nice limited slip. Of coarse you will need stronger axles along with it. If you have the extra cash to throw around you can do a 9' rear.Thanks in advance
05-03-2006, 05:12 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 27
RE: Lots of work on my GT
ORIGINAL: 88BlueGT
This project will take some time anyway, but i will order needed parts all the time as long as i can afford them. My plan is do have most things done by next summer.
Is the 351 easily bolted into my car?
For the trans, i actually want a manual, but if a build automatic can give me more for the money..?
Its great to hear that my rearaxle will hold
05-03-2006, 06:38 PM
#14
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 15,042
RE: Lots of work on my GT
^^ +1 I agree... but I wont even get into that. But anyway... Check this out. And heres the link to the page. Its in the stickies in the 351W section. https://mustangforums.com/m_1121694/tm.htm
The 351W is a Windsor class engine. It is made on the same factory line as our beloved 5.0. However, the 351 posseses several qualities that make it a desirable block for an engine buildup. The advantages of using a 351W vs a 5.0 (302):
Obviously, you get an extra 49 cubic inches of displacement. As the saying goes, there is no replacement for displacement. Second, the webbing in the lower half of the block is thicker, making the block stronger. Third, the crank has bigger main and rods journals, making the cranks more durable than their 302 counterparts.
FACTS: What you need to know/consider when you swap a 351W into a Fox3 platform chassis:
The 351 block is very similar to the 302. That means that almost all parts swap between a 302 and a 351. This includes: Heads, cam, lifters, timing chain, timing chain cover, water pump, engine mounts, and all sorts of other stuff. The bellhousing bolt pattern is the same as a 302, so all trannies that bolt to a 302 will bolt to a 351. However, there are some differences in the 351 that necessitate new parts:
1) The oil pan is different. Motorsports carries one. You can also get an oil pan of of an early eighties LTD Crown Vic. If you go the junkyard route, remember you also need a oil pan pickup tube, and a special main bolt that the pickup attaches to. The FMS pan is a pretty good deal, and if you shop around, you can get one for under $100, which comes with the dipstick, bolt, and pickup tube.
2) The internal balance of a 351W is the same as pre-81 302's (28.2 oz). The 5.0 HO has a 50 oz. unbalance, which means you cannot use the flexplate/flywheel or the harmanic balancer off of an HO engine. You have to get the correct pieces from a dealer/junkyard.
3) The deck height is higher, which means you need a different intake, since the 351W intake is wider. A 5.0 Upper will bolt to a 351W lower.
4) Also, a higher deck height means that the accessory bracket will need to be replaced. FMS sells the new bracket for about $50.
5) The higher deck height means the headers sit up higher than in a 302 powered Mustang. A special set is required for a 351.
6) A 351W will in all likelyhood not clear the stock hood. You will need a cowl hood for your car.
7) The distributor has a fatter shaft. You can obtain one from a 351W powered FI truck (if you are using FI) or any late 70's/early 80's car using the 351W and a Duraspark system if you are going to build a non-efi car.
Those are the major differences. As you can see, for about $1000 you can put a 351W in your Mustang. This is cheaper than a stroker, plus you wind up with a more reliable engine.
Tips: There are several things to look out for to ensure that your swap to a 351W is easier and more successful. They are as follows:
1) A high volume oil pump WILL NOT clear the FMS pan. If you want to run an HV pump, you must either modify the pan, or buy a Canton or similar pan, for many dollars more. The modifications just include cutting down the front drain bolt, and welding on a corner to the pan to clear the pump housing.
2) Get new motor mounts. If your mounts are questionable already, the additional weight of the 351W will make them fail in a hurry. I recommend the 87-93 convertable mounts, which will work in any 79-93 Mustang.
http://www.fast351.com/tech/351w.htm
BUT if you are looking for a turn key motor than noone of this stuff really matters for you anyway.
The 351W is a Windsor class engine. It is made on the same factory line as our beloved 5.0. However, the 351 posseses several qualities that make it a desirable block for an engine buildup. The advantages of using a 351W vs a 5.0 (302):
Obviously, you get an extra 49 cubic inches of displacement. As the saying goes, there is no replacement for displacement. Second, the webbing in the lower half of the block is thicker, making the block stronger. Third, the crank has bigger main and rods journals, making the cranks more durable than their 302 counterparts.
FACTS: What you need to know/consider when you swap a 351W into a Fox3 platform chassis:
The 351 block is very similar to the 302. That means that almost all parts swap between a 302 and a 351. This includes: Heads, cam, lifters, timing chain, timing chain cover, water pump, engine mounts, and all sorts of other stuff. The bellhousing bolt pattern is the same as a 302, so all trannies that bolt to a 302 will bolt to a 351. However, there are some differences in the 351 that necessitate new parts:
1) The oil pan is different. Motorsports carries one. You can also get an oil pan of of an early eighties LTD Crown Vic. If you go the junkyard route, remember you also need a oil pan pickup tube, and a special main bolt that the pickup attaches to. The FMS pan is a pretty good deal, and if you shop around, you can get one for under $100, which comes with the dipstick, bolt, and pickup tube.
2) The internal balance of a 351W is the same as pre-81 302's (28.2 oz). The 5.0 HO has a 50 oz. unbalance, which means you cannot use the flexplate/flywheel or the harmanic balancer off of an HO engine. You have to get the correct pieces from a dealer/junkyard.
3) The deck height is higher, which means you need a different intake, since the 351W intake is wider. A 5.0 Upper will bolt to a 351W lower.
4) Also, a higher deck height means that the accessory bracket will need to be replaced. FMS sells the new bracket for about $50.
5) The higher deck height means the headers sit up higher than in a 302 powered Mustang. A special set is required for a 351.
6) A 351W will in all likelyhood not clear the stock hood. You will need a cowl hood for your car.
7) The distributor has a fatter shaft. You can obtain one from a 351W powered FI truck (if you are using FI) or any late 70's/early 80's car using the 351W and a Duraspark system if you are going to build a non-efi car.
Those are the major differences. As you can see, for about $1000 you can put a 351W in your Mustang. This is cheaper than a stroker, plus you wind up with a more reliable engine.
Tips: There are several things to look out for to ensure that your swap to a 351W is easier and more successful. They are as follows:
1) A high volume oil pump WILL NOT clear the FMS pan. If you want to run an HV pump, you must either modify the pan, or buy a Canton or similar pan, for many dollars more. The modifications just include cutting down the front drain bolt, and welding on a corner to the pan to clear the pump housing.
2) Get new motor mounts. If your mounts are questionable already, the additional weight of the 351W will make them fail in a hurry. I recommend the 87-93 convertable mounts, which will work in any 79-93 Mustang.
http://www.fast351.com/tech/351w.htm
BUT if you are looking for a turn key motor than noone of this stuff really matters for you anyway.
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