meiguoren33

Used P's finally arrived!! I got the valves, springs, etc out of the first one. Nothing out of the ordinary just a bit of grime, no side movement on the valves (guides appear good) and no junk on the stems or in the chambers ( seals must be tight still). The seats all look clean and shiny and the valve faces too. So should I just clean the valves and ports with brake cleaner, slather on the paint, and bolt them up? I got a lapper and compound but don't see the point as good as everything looks. There's really no major casting flash but I'll hit the offending spots with the die grinder to get that extra 2HP. Also, they came without rockersand studs, will the old ones off my E7's work? Also, I'm considering getting them shaved tommorrow to up the compression. Any comments how much to remove and what compression I can expect?

JD1969

I don't reccomend milling for compression if you ever see a cam in your future. I would have a good valve job done on them before putting them back on the car, there is an easy 10-15 hp in the right valve job.

meiguoren33

Actualy, I was thinking of a B cam cause there's more duration but not too much lift. I've heard the P's quit flowing around .500". I think the B is about .480" but has more duration or am I better off stock cam with 1.7 rollers? To eloborate, I'm using a Stealth intake, Holley 600CFM for now, BBK equals, 5SP, and 3.73 rear if that helps. Later I plan to get a plate kit an give it at least a 100 shot of giggle gas or more if I don't soil myself.

JD1969

Duration has as much, if not more, affect on piston to valve clearance as lift does.

meiguoren33

Ah, I see, I think. So i would need to install the new cam, clay the pistons, and determine what kind of clearance I have for milling the heads? Or should I just slap the heads on it as they are?

One thing I want to avoid is having to get extended push rods, it seems milling the heads slightly would only require shims worst case. Never built a 5.0 so please enlighten me. Thx.

Hurricanedt77

I'd do a Quick lap job with some compound and clean them up really nice, I've found that soaking them in mineral spirits cleans them up real nice. And it makes all the **** and carbon come off nicely. Maybe get them resurfaced if they havent been. My buddies have had a good luck with minor milling, just needed a little more shim I think. Well, good luck

JD1969

Yea a little more shim should do it if you are just cleaning up the head surface. Also I don't reccomend that you "clay" it, use a dial indicator and a checking spring it is much more accurite.

meiguoren33

Hey i got both, checking springs and dial indicator and my clay is missing, THX! Ill check it that way, too bad i'm fallin on my a** from brake cleaner fumes. First head is done, second is disassembled, "deburred", and ready for reassembly. Spring compressor is hand powered not air, ow,,,,,,[X(]