randy78045

Finally someone thinks like me... kinda... just thinkin you will reach your goal quicker an cheaper with a s/c..... [sm=alcoholic.gif]

silver91gt

easily,

kickasp

are you sayin a s/c would be cheaper than doin the h/c/i? i didnt think h/c/i was going to be that expensive???

i also wanna keep it on 87 pump gas*** that prolly makes it a little harder

silver91gt

heads- 1000-1500
cam- 200-350
intake 350-750
but you need all the supporting mods too like injectors, exhaust, stuff like that.

randy78045

an what does a little boost cost???

boss429

i just like to think theres a little more dignity in natural aspiration.

boost almost seems too easy, like cheating lol.

but when im done all my N/A mods im definitely going turbo

88stangaruu

Fully Ported Iron GT-40P's Heads are about $600 out of the paper and you can port them yourself, if you have the mechanical ability to
build an engine yourself, you should easily be able to just go over the intake ports yourself.

Trick Flow Stage 1 cam Trick flow cams are very nice pieces, work very well, they are dual pattern cams the specs on the stage I are; 221/225 @ .050 and .499/.510 lift

BBK Long tubes with o/r H-pipe together they are about $650, you can probably find them cheaper in the paper or on Ebay

70mm TB (little better throttle response) Look on Ebay, you can find BBK and Edelbroke pieces for around $150 or so, new they cost a little over $200

70mm EGR (or just delete it all together) Its cheaper to delete the EGR all together, you may need to take your computer to get it re-programed to eliminate the timing advance programed into it to prevent detonation. I just took mine off and i had no pinging, some have it, some dont. Its still a good idea to have the computer fixed though.

Gasket matched Edelbrock rpm intake I think this intake is about $550-$600 brand new, they're very good quality, very nice ports, etc. I got the cheaper edelbrock RPM knock off, Typhoon, it was like $350 but i had to port it out just to flow slightly better than an out of the box RPM

24# or 30# injectors 30#'s are a little big for a bolt on N/A 302 or 306, 24#'s work nice for a bolt on 5.0 motor. I have the motorsports 24#'s and i love them, i actually run a slight bit rich with them.

Hi-6 ignition box with fireball coil Upgraded engines need up-graded ignition systems. The stock dizzy is fine, you only need a billet dizzy if your pushing like 550 or more, then your going to need a new block and bottom end anyhow. But stock dizzy is perfect, replace the cap and rotor though. The Hi-6 is digital ignition, it has a rev limiter without using the little plugs like MSD, very nice ignition. Its around $225 new, look on ebay, you can definatly get a better deal there.

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump Just to keep up with the mods. 255 is the way to go with a 5.0

Smog delete, A/C delete Dont just get the pullies, get the eliminator plate from Trick Flow for like $25 and it re-mounts your tensioner arm where the A/C used to be, then just take the smog pump off and get a smaller belt.

Those are some really good components and work well, it should put you around 300-325 at the rear wheels, many of my friends are running that same, very basic set up and they are easily putting down around 300-325, with a little messaging maybe a tad bit more. Horsepower is all in the details. Dont cut corners, it will bit you in the *** in the long run. Good luck.

88BlueGT

You can get a Novi 1000 w/ a upgraded crank pulley and make approx. 10psi. Total cost would be about 2K for the blower and pulley, 200 for injectors (used), and 200 for maf.

$2,400 for 10psi?? How could you go wrong there!

w8less

347 custom cam afr 185's edelbrock rpm 2 and supporting 70mm tb and supporting mods and u should be there.

that or look at my set up and some afr 185s later on down the road and i should be at 325+ on motor

gspfunk

kickasp--You will need all the bolt ons, a good H/C/I combo, and upgraded fuel components. You would attain that goal a little more easily w/ a 331 or 347 stroker....