Will I crack 13s with this set-up???
#11
RE: Will I crack 13s with this set-up???
When I bought my car it was bone stock. I took the air silencer off and put underdrive pullies and 355 gears my car ran a 14.14. I didnt think that was that great at the time but the more I read it seams that is pretty good. guess I shouldnt complain!
#12
RE: Will I crack 13s with this set-up???
ORIGINAL: myshifter
Now everyone dont take this the wrong way but looking at the cost of all the parts you put on the car for it to only turn a high 13 low 14 is sick in my opinion, yes I am aware people buy parts used, do the work themselves but for a regular joe who doesnt know a damn thing and buys the parts new and pays someone to install it all, thats just crazy. I would be sick if it didnt go 80's or lower
Now everyone dont take this the wrong way but looking at the cost of all the parts you put on the car for it to only turn a high 13 low 14 is sick in my opinion, yes I am aware people buy parts used, do the work themselves but for a regular joe who doesnt know a damn thing and buys the parts new and pays someone to install it all, thats just crazy. I would be sick if it didnt go 80's or lower
My former '89 'vert ran a best of 13.80@99.8mph at 2,750+ elevation(who knows how bad the DA was that day; it's usually around 5,000-6,000...)
Every mod:
70mm BBK junkyard throttlebody($45 w\spacer)
73mm C&L meter($75 from friend)
Removed air silencer
Ported the stock lower intake & mass air meter myself(30 hours of my time & $5 worth of epoxy)
power pullies on crank & waterpump($30 max; also junkyard sourced)
short belt to bypass smog pump & PS pump($20 shorter length belt)
MSD6AL(Big expenditure; $175)
K&N panel filter(Junkyard....$2.30)
Otherwise completely stock motor.....
removed front swaybar(free)
welded in cheapo subconnectors($50+ case of beer for the installer)
T5Z trans(swapped out a bad AOD when i bought the car; high mileage car in pretty bad shape. $1,050 new in the crate).
3.55 gear(bought a disc brake rear end for $300 & the gear came with it.....)
26x8.5 M\T drag slicks on old 10-holes...($200 used mounted on the included 10-holes)
3,450 w\me ready to race.....
I didn't do everything I could have to reduce weight; it still had full power, air, & full interior. It was a daily driver just like my current notch & I didn't want to hear every pebble hitting the chassis on my daily 75 mile commute. I'm not bragging either; I'm sure many have gone faster & drive far better than I(can't break the daily driver; so no power shifting allowed). I just thought this list might help show that it isn't too hard nor too expensive.....
#15
RE: Will I crack 13s with this set-up???
Has anyone ever thought about the DRIVER?? A good driver will def get that car into the 13's
I bet my sister could drive a car with that laundry list of goodies well into the 13's......and she sucks.
-Ivan
I bet my sister could drive a car with that laundry list of goodies well into the 13's......and she sucks.
-Ivan
#16
RE: Will I crack 13s with this set-up???
ORIGINAL: anthonydalrymple
Well..... Not everyone has the time to hang out at the track allot & learn all the little cost effective secrets.... There are budget ways to et into the 13's; just some little things.....
My former '89 'vert ran a best of 13.80@99.8mph at 2,750+ elevation(who knows how bad the DA was that day; it's usually around 5,000-6,000...)
Every mod:
70mm BBK junkyard throttlebody($45 w\spacer)
73mm C&L meter($75 from friend)
Removed air silencer
Ported the stock lower intake & mass air meter myself(30 hours of my time & $5 worth of epoxy)
power pullies on crank & waterpump($30 max; also junkyard sourced)
short belt to bypass smog pump & PS pump($20 shorter length belt)
MSD6AL(Big expenditure; $175)
K&N panel filter(Junkyard....$2.30)
Otherwise completely stock motor.....
removed front swaybar(free)
welded in cheapo subconnectors($50+ case of beer for the installer)
T5Z trans(swapped out a bad AOD when i bought the car; high mileage car in pretty bad shape. $1,050 new in the crate).
3.55 gear(bought a disc brake rear end for $300 & the gear came with it.....)
26x8.5 M\T drag slicks on old 10-holes...($200 used mounted on the included 10-holes)
3,450 w\me ready to race.....
I didn't do everything I could have to reduce weight; it still had full power, air, & full interior. It was a daily driver just like my current notch & I didn't want to hear every pebble hitting the chassis on my daily 75 mile commute. I'm not bragging either; I'm sure many have gone faster & drive far better than I(can't break the daily driver; so no power shifting allowed). I just thought this list might help show that it isn't too hard nor too expensive.....
ORIGINAL: myshifter
Now everyone dont take this the wrong way but looking at the cost of all the parts you put on the car for it to only turn a high 13 low 14 is sick in my opinion, yes I am aware people buy parts used, do the work themselves but for a regular joe who doesnt know a damn thing and buys the parts new and pays someone to install it all, thats just crazy. I would be sick if it didnt go 80's or lower
Now everyone dont take this the wrong way but looking at the cost of all the parts you put on the car for it to only turn a high 13 low 14 is sick in my opinion, yes I am aware people buy parts used, do the work themselves but for a regular joe who doesnt know a damn thing and buys the parts new and pays someone to install it all, thats just crazy. I would be sick if it didnt go 80's or lower
My former '89 'vert ran a best of 13.80@99.8mph at 2,750+ elevation(who knows how bad the DA was that day; it's usually around 5,000-6,000...)
Every mod:
70mm BBK junkyard throttlebody($45 w\spacer)
73mm C&L meter($75 from friend)
Removed air silencer
Ported the stock lower intake & mass air meter myself(30 hours of my time & $5 worth of epoxy)
power pullies on crank & waterpump($30 max; also junkyard sourced)
short belt to bypass smog pump & PS pump($20 shorter length belt)
MSD6AL(Big expenditure; $175)
K&N panel filter(Junkyard....$2.30)
Otherwise completely stock motor.....
removed front swaybar(free)
welded in cheapo subconnectors($50+ case of beer for the installer)
T5Z trans(swapped out a bad AOD when i bought the car; high mileage car in pretty bad shape. $1,050 new in the crate).
3.55 gear(bought a disc brake rear end for $300 & the gear came with it.....)
26x8.5 M\T drag slicks on old 10-holes...($200 used mounted on the included 10-holes)
3,450 w\me ready to race.....
I didn't do everything I could have to reduce weight; it still had full power, air, & full interior. It was a daily driver just like my current notch & I didn't want to hear every pebble hitting the chassis on my daily 75 mile commute. I'm not bragging either; I'm sure many have gone faster & drive far better than I(can't break the daily driver; so no power shifting allowed). I just thought this list might help show that it isn't too hard nor too expensive.....
#18
RE: Will I crack 13s with this set-up???
ORIGINAL: myshifter
Ok let me simplify it for people, mustangs should be a mid to high 13 second car bone stock from the factory, I lay blame on fords shoulders. A mid 15-16 second mustang is attrocious and an embarrasement
Ok let me simplify it for people, mustangs should be a mid to high 13 second car bone stock from the factory, I lay blame on fords shoulders. A mid 15-16 second mustang is attrocious and an embarrasement
#19
RE: Will I crack 13s with this set-up???
With suspension work, minor bolt one, gears & stall you could hit low 13's...... just look at RSW..... hes running 12.8X's with minor bolt ons (exhaust, etc.), TC, shift kit & 4.10's w/ suspension work.
#20
RE: Will I crack 13s with this set-up???
He doesn't have a shift kit, he's got a manual valve body. But his set up is kind of what I'm going for. No heads or cam, just everything else around it. I want to really surprise some people with what a bolt on 5.0 with an AOD can do. Especially for the guys at my work because they're all chevy guys and they're always giving me **** about the mustang and how chevy motors are cheaper to build up than fords.