7upedition

run a copper core 3 row raiator and a 180* t stat that will solve your problems also you can mix your antifreeze a lil bit higher concentration like 60/40.. you dont need a alminum radiator unless you have healy mods...jmo

Fail Safe T Stat's are $12 @ Autozone

88BlueGT

But an aluminum radiator doesnt even cool as well as a copper so basically the only time you NEED an aluminum radiator is if you want the looks and to cut a few lbs.

Bumsdeclaf

these are my mods: Cobra intake and manifold(from the 95 cobra), BBK 70mm TB, BBK Cold Air Intake, MAC shorty headers, BBK off road h-pipe, flowmasters cut off right after the exhaust, (not sure if it makes any differece for performance, i guess shaves off very little weight), Smog pump eliminated, King Cobra Clutch (which is dieing on me now, im getting the heavy duty motorsports) Aluminum drive shaft, MSD ignition coil, 9mm wires, and 3.55 gears. the car is mostly stock other than the 3.55 gears. those made the most differece.

vristang

You should be able to find a temp gauge at a parts store that will be accurate enough to verify the temps you think you are seeing.

I suggest keeping your Tstat as high as you can without over heating. Some guys living in Hot Climates have to run a 160 stat to keep their coolant temps below 210F. The stat rating is secondary to the coolant temps.

The copper parts store radiator should work well for you.
I have had good luck using a 2 core copper unit on my 408w.

I find it humorous that guys will move from a stock copper 2 row rad, to a 3 core Aluminum rad in order to save weight. You may cut a lb of radiator, but the 3rd core fills with several pounds of water. Something to consider.

3 cores will offer more resistance to the cooling fan, so if making that change be sure your fan is in good shape too.

The most important gauges to upgrade are coolant temp and oil pressure. The stock units are sketchy.

jason

hellas85stang

put 190-195 in in winter and i60-180 in in summer