hearthe5ohroar

They only test in the state of washington in certain city limits.... so I could get out of it a few different ways..... but yea, if you know how, I'm completely in the dark. I know I have to plug the block with spark plugs once I get that famous "rusted rail" removed.... and then I guess I have to plug off that hole that will be left behind in the H pipe, but other than that, what all has to be plugged off? I pretty much have all the hoses out because I couldn't fix that check valve anyhow.... So yea, rather than me ramble on.... any pointers?

86 5.0L

[] I might have to join the military then!!!!

hearthe5ohroar

Better go a different route than the Air Force.... sure, they take care of their people, but man, it's really not worth it.... you might as well have fun taking your aggression out by killing people in another branch.... lmao. These forums are the only thing that keep me sane since I joined.... that, and my car....

hearthe5ohroar

bump bump (still looking for advice on how to delete the smog pump without ruining anything but keeping the cats for now).....

AdderMk2

WTF?!?!?! if you even dare sticking spark plugs into the back of your heads... so help me god ill smack the crap out of you....

Go to your local hardware store and buy 5/8" bolts. I bought 2 that were 2" long then cut them down to be about 3/4"

Once you have them cut you will want to file a groove into the threading and make it like a tap. use the bolt to fill in the hole for a much cleaner and less of a "hey look... i have spark plugs stuck in the back of my cylinder heads!!!!" look... make sure you slowly work the bolt back and forth until it bottoms all the way down... then back it out, apply some red rtv silicone or thread sealer, and thread it back in.

hearthe5ohroar

LMFAO!!!!!!! That's great.....

I might try that then. I don't really have much for cutting bolts other than a hacksaw, so that "tap" idea might have to be scratched and just try to thread the hole with the "tighten/loosen/tighten-more" routine..... Dunno, might have to try a couple of different approaches. Anything other than that? I mean, just remove the hoses and seal the stock H pipe hole left behind and I can let the smog pump continue to run on the belt?

hearthe5ohroar

The washer idea seems like a good idea just hearing it, but then I got to thinkings about it.... will that stress the motor mount stud too much? And won't that throw the transmission out of alignment? I mean, there are a few things to take into consideration.... I just wonder how it has worked out for other people over long periods of time..... any transmission problems? Fan/shroud clearance issues? Let me know.....

PRO50SC

No! The amount is so small, (3/8 - 1/4") it won't be of any notice to the components other than the fact that the rubbing issue will be solved. If you're that worried, buy new motor mounts.

hearthe5ohroar

I thought about that, but there is such a difference in the amount of time it will take to just add 3 washers to the drivers side (especially if i slit them and bend them into position around the stud) and replacing motor mounts. I suppose you're right though. The arm is just rubbing enough to cause aproblem, not like I'm lifting it 2 or 3 inches even.... I just don't have enough money to fix a small screw up that is going to cost me big, ya know? But thanks. No problems though huh? How long has it been sitting on washers for you?

PRO50SC

A few months. Trust me, it would be fine. That's why it's called modding. Nothing ever fits quite right and you always have to compensate to accommodate.