5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

bogging between 3 and 4 thousand rpm

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Old 09-11-2006, 03:01 AM
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jameswehner
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Default bogging between 3 and 4 thousand rpm

i need some help, just bought an 87, 5.0, rebuilt motor. did basic tune up, redid timing, when i get on it it flys to about 3200 rpms, then the motor bogs down and it shifts, AT by the way, rechecked timing, hair off, still bogging, fuel injectors serviced, new fuel pump. im at a loss here. also, having ridiculous electrical problems inside the car,thinking about redoing all the interior wiring, any suggestions???


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Old 09-11-2006, 07:11 AM
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86 5.0L
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Default RE: bogging between 3 and 4 thousand rpm

hmmmm, well not sure, mines a 5spd but at around 3200rpms I can feel the surge from the car hitting its peak torque curve, might be the tranny, or the torque converter......autos confuse me [&:] lol I dont much about them
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:20 AM
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ibanezta
 
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Default RE: bogging between 3 and 4 thousand rpm

you can buy a code reader for cheap and see if you have any bad sensors. i got mine at wal-mart of all places for like 25 bucks. does the same thing that shops charge you 100 to do. id try that first. if no sensors are bad, it could be the tranny. you make sure that the timing advance cube thing was plugged in? if not your timing isnt advancing as the rpms go up. try the code reader tho and go from there.
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:15 AM
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7upedition
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Default RE: bogging between 3 and 4 thousand rpm

^+1 check the codes, the computer will add up to 16* of timing as the rpms climb in addition to the base timing ,does the car completely die or just shift down and kinda get sluggish, in my AOD it acted similarly until i installed 3.73 gears, the 2.73 just didn't spin fast enough , it'd shift into next gear from 3000 rpms to 1500rpms and be a dog now it shifts at 4000 rpms and goes to 2000rpms right back at the start of the power band and theres no lack of power from gear to gear anymore. good luck
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:04 PM
  #5  
jameswehner
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Default RE: bogging between 3 and 4 thousand rpm

hey thanks alot guys, yeah, it was the timing,way off, there is an eyelet then a hash mark, when i put the timing light on it i tried both, neither were hittin right, i put it a hair under the hash smooth shifting from here on out... i plan on changing the gears, any recommendations, wanna keep my high end, but give it more go.... thanks again guys, really diggin this forum!
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:10 PM
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jameswehner
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Default bad electrical problems

any ideas about the electrical??? painless doesnt have a kit for my car, which means im gunna have to dive in ***** deep.... signals are shorting, headlight switch keeps fryin, melted harnesses under steering column... previous owner couldnt drive at night anymore, ran markers, tail head and fog lights to fused toggle... no dash lights, fuses blowin left and right...thinkin about running new more solid ground from fuse box, replacing all bad harnesses, saudering everything back in place... if anybody has had similar problems w/ electrical id love some input... thanks again guys
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:59 PM
  #7  
Twisted
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Default RE: bogging between 3 and 4 thousand rpm


ORIGINAL: ibanezta

you can buy a code reader for cheap and see if you have any bad sensors. i got mine at wal-mart of all places for like 25 bucks. does the same thing that shops charge you 100 to do. id try that first. if no sensors are bad, it could be the tranny. you make sure that the timing advance cube thing was plugged in? if not your timing isnt advancing as the rpms go up. try the code reader tho and go from there.
I always check my codes with a paperclip. Do you really need a code reader?
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Old 09-12-2006, 01:57 AM
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Default RE: bogging between 3 and 4 thousand rpm

the code reader is awsome. it not only does the key on engine off test to see what codes have flashed, it does the key on engine on test to get real time trouble codes. also it will shut down each individual cylinder to see if one of them has a problem, and will check your abs system (if so equipped) cant beat that for $25 in my opinion.
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