aode08

First I got it from a recycled yard, $215 with tax, they said they get engines from yards and keep em and sell em as cores.

So i got a master gasket set , main and rod bearings and rings but guess what!>????????[:'(]





I took off a Main Bearing Cap and Rod Cap the damn bearings are still bright shiny aluminum with NO signs of wear!!!

The crosshatch patten present in all of the bores still!

Timing Chain No Deflection!

Motor Turns Over Easy, I have never seen a block like this, IM STUMPED all these NEW Parts I BOUGHT and NOTHING wrong with this block!!!!!


Whats the deal, they told me maybe it had bad heads and the customer junked the car, or maybe the tranny went out and they junked the car, or maybe the car or SUV has been wrecked/
???????

The bearings are in so good of shape I can read the ford part numbers off them and the pistons look dam near 20k old???????[>:]

leadfootdriver

Sounds like you got a good deal. Bolt that bitch together and drop the hammer.

LTnone

You're complaining? Return the parts

88BlueGT

What kind of motor did you get? Another 302?

ZachW04Stang

If its really that bad, I'll send you the money to ship it to me. I've been looking for a motor like that to stick in my car for sometime.

aode08

yes its a 302

IT MUST BE A NEWER YEAR

the timing chain has a SMOOTHER PATTERN DOUBLE ROLLER for improved noise and dampning.

THE OIL PRESSURE switch is SMALL AND FULLY ELCTRONIC not like the big one on my 302 1990.

ALL ROLLER LIFTERS push in smooth and freely equal to each other.

The cam has not scratches and looks shinny chrome.

Im literally stumped,

perhaps if I can get the numbers off the block one of yall can tell me what this came out of or something

aode08

weird

vristang

congrats on the great find.

It should make getting the car back on the road a lot easier!

I would leave the pistons in, but do so inspection of the bores, assuming you have a bore gauge.

Even though the main bearings look good, use some plastigage to double check the clearance.
It would really suck to install this motor, just to find out there is a little knock coming from the bottom end.

Sounds like you should be up and running in no time.

jason

PS-
did you ever come to any conclusions on what caused your problems on the previous motor?

r.barn

year is easy to read on serial number

first letter is decade

F = 90's
E = 80's
D = 70's
ect.

second number is the year of that decade

so serial number starting with E9 would be from 1989


+1, return the re-build kit or stick it somewhere safe and see how
long it last.

aode08

when i get the oven cleaner off of ot, ill look for the numbers again