Tire pressure recommendations for Races...
10-05-2006, 10:05 PM
#24
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Central New York
Posts: 3,850
RE: Tire pressure recommendations for Races...
go to the gym and loose ten pounds... that'l be more help than the tires.... remove everything in your trunk, heres some newbe tips:
Proper drag racing technique
Ok, this is for those of you who haven't raced on a sanctioned drag way, or for those of you learning. This is based on my years of drag racing experince.
Arrival:
1. Arrive early, tech lines are long and hot. Get there early and you will start sooner when your lane is up. This is important because you will spend less time idling waiting for you turn, running all that time you spent cooling your motor. Colder motor = colder air= faster car.
2. Don't try to BS that saftey tech's they are there for a reason.
3. Be honest and ask questions, if your new don't feel bad you won't be treated wrongly.
Prep:
4. You more than likely DONT need racing fuel. I see this every time, a Stock Civic getting 110 unleaded fuel. New's flash, more octane is harder to burn. If your not running a HOT turbo motor, you won't need it.
5. Hood up, let your motor cool
6. Don't look stupid pulling off your backseat, or front hubcaps or what ever. Just run your car. If it's fast then maybe pull your back seat, but if you only run a 19 don't expect losing 10 pounds will drop you a second.
Stage:
7. What ever you do, DONT ROLL THROUGH THE WATER. Unless you have a treadless drag slick, a posi and drag front tires (or vice versa for you FWD's) you MUST go around the water. Thats an instant give away for the other guy that your a newb'.
8. Skip the huge "John Force" burnout. Most radial tires will stick less w/ excessive heat. The rubber curl's up and creates ball bearings which = no traction.
9. Roll slowly, light the first light and wait for the other guy if your "that cool." If not, stage both lights and focus.
...btw if you stage the second light and the first one goes off, STOP, any more and your going to have to back up (ie look like a moron).
The Tree:
10: The "tree" as it's called has the staging lights, three yellows a green and a red. Red is bad. Green is bad. Last yellow is the only light you care about. When that last yellow lights it's time to go. Leave on the last yellow, a 1.- reaction time is not good.
The Hole:
11: Myth- Auto's are slow. Reality- No they aren't. They are much faster at shifting and much easier to launch. Bring up the RPM to stall speed and baby it out of the hole. Sticks will ALWAYS leave to hard and spin the tires. No traction = no acceleration. Rember that, your only as fast as your tires will let you go. You'll learn how hard you can leave with out spinning.
The Track:
12: FLOOR IT
Shutdown area:
13: The track is ussualy clearly marked where it ends and where you can turn. Get off the track and back to your lane.
Tips and Tricks:
Keep an eye on quick lanes for the night, try to get them.
Cold air equals faster car, if it drops 10 degrees between runs, keep that in mind on your Dial in.
Traction Traction Traction
But always, be safe and smart. Be realistic, don't think you will be a master in one run. My first run ever, I smoke the tires to the 660 marker (660 feet) and ran a 16.6 at 82 mph. My second run was much improved at 14.4 at 97 mph. Traction counts.
Have fun, and oh DONT SET YOUR CAR ALARM. God that is annoying!
Proper drag racing technique
Ok, this is for those of you who haven't raced on a sanctioned drag way, or for those of you learning. This is based on my years of drag racing experince.
Arrival:
1. Arrive early, tech lines are long and hot. Get there early and you will start sooner when your lane is up. This is important because you will spend less time idling waiting for you turn, running all that time you spent cooling your motor. Colder motor = colder air= faster car.
2. Don't try to BS that saftey tech's they are there for a reason.
3. Be honest and ask questions, if your new don't feel bad you won't be treated wrongly.
Prep:
4. You more than likely DONT need racing fuel. I see this every time, a Stock Civic getting 110 unleaded fuel. New's flash, more octane is harder to burn. If your not running a HOT turbo motor, you won't need it.
5. Hood up, let your motor cool
6. Don't look stupid pulling off your backseat, or front hubcaps or what ever. Just run your car. If it's fast then maybe pull your back seat, but if you only run a 19 don't expect losing 10 pounds will drop you a second.
Stage:
7. What ever you do, DONT ROLL THROUGH THE WATER. Unless you have a treadless drag slick, a posi and drag front tires (or vice versa for you FWD's) you MUST go around the water. Thats an instant give away for the other guy that your a newb'.
8. Skip the huge "John Force" burnout. Most radial tires will stick less w/ excessive heat. The rubber curl's up and creates ball bearings which = no traction.
9. Roll slowly, light the first light and wait for the other guy if your "that cool." If not, stage both lights and focus.
...btw if you stage the second light and the first one goes off, STOP, any more and your going to have to back up (ie look like a moron).
The Tree:
10: The "tree" as it's called has the staging lights, three yellows a green and a red. Red is bad. Green is bad. Last yellow is the only light you care about. When that last yellow lights it's time to go. Leave on the last yellow, a 1.- reaction time is not good.
The Hole:
11: Myth- Auto's are slow. Reality- No they aren't. They are much faster at shifting and much easier to launch. Bring up the RPM to stall speed and baby it out of the hole. Sticks will ALWAYS leave to hard and spin the tires. No traction = no acceleration. Rember that, your only as fast as your tires will let you go. You'll learn how hard you can leave with out spinning.
The Track:
12: FLOOR IT
Shutdown area:
13: The track is ussualy clearly marked where it ends and where you can turn. Get off the track and back to your lane.
Tips and Tricks:
Keep an eye on quick lanes for the night, try to get them.
Cold air equals faster car, if it drops 10 degrees between runs, keep that in mind on your Dial in.
Traction Traction Traction
But always, be safe and smart. Be realistic, don't think you will be a master in one run. My first run ever, I smoke the tires to the 660 marker (660 feet) and ran a 16.6 at 82 mph. My second run was much improved at 14.4 at 97 mph. Traction counts.
Have fun, and oh DONT SET YOUR CAR ALARM. God that is annoying!
10-05-2006, 10:31 PM
#26
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Howard City, MI
Posts: 5,956
RE: Tire pressure recommendations for Races...
Jut run them at 30 and call it good. If you want, drop them to 25....I bet my DD tires are only at 25 now..hehe(too lazy to add air) The worst that will hapen is nothing and you will have to add air later
10-05-2006, 11:10 PM
#27
The Rogue Mod
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland Sucka's!!
Posts: 21,918
RE: Tire pressure recommendations for Races...
ORIGINAL: grabbem88
a street tire is a harder compound rubber/yes contact patch can be manipulated,but for refference sake...any geared/high hp. car will blister stock tires. what you did was make a flat tire with weak sidewalls rotate slower<decrease wheel spin,and made your car dangerous.
a street tire is a harder compound rubber/yes contact patch can be manipulated,but for refference sake...any geared/high hp. car will blister stock tires. what you did was make a flat tire with weak sidewalls rotate slower<decrease wheel spin,and made your car dangerous.
ORIGINAL: 5speed GT
As impressed as I have been with your knowlege, I have to disagree... when you air down any tire it will widen the contact patch of the tire, so in a way make the tire itself wider, more contact area means more traction. I took off .4 of a second going from 32psi to 15psi the same day, back to back runs.
ORIGINAL: PRO50SC
Dropping pressure in street tires will do nothing
Dropping pressure in street tires will do nothing
5speedgt, dunno, maybe your car doesn't make enough power to need a set of dr's and street tires suffice for your application.
10-05-2006, 11:31 PM
#28
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: cape giradeau,mo
Posts: 8,872
RE: Tire pressure recommendations for Races...
NP Bernie
...street tires are what they are "street tires"....if you spend the $$$ on mods then why can't you spend the $$$ on some tires?...
put it this way if you cut 2.5/3.0 60's on street tires don't come here asking why? or what did i do wrong,cause you already know the answer...
hell i'll sell ya my 275/50/15's bfg drag radials for 50 bucks!...i might have 10 passes left on them,but you will probably get 50 or more.
...street tires are what they are "street tires"....if you spend the $$$ on mods then why can't you spend the $$$ on some tires?...put it this way if you cut 2.5/3.0 60's on street tires don't come here asking why? or what did i do wrong,cause you already know the answer...
hell i'll sell ya my 275/50/15's bfg drag radials for 50 bucks!...i might have 10 passes left on them,but you will probably get 50 or more.
10-06-2006, 12:03 AM
#29
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cape May County, NJ
Posts: 1,097
RE: Tire pressure recommendations for Races...
ORIGINAL: 7upedition
go to the gym and loose ten pounds... that'l be more help than the tires.... remove everything in your trunk, heres some newbe tips:
Proper drag racing technique
Ok, this is for those of you who haven't raced on a sanctioned drag way, or for those of you learning. This is based on my years of drag racing experince.
Arrival:
1. Arrive early, tech lines are long and hot. Get there early and you will start sooner when your lane is up. This is important because you will spend less time idling waiting for you turn, running all that time you spent cooling your motor. Colder motor = colder air= faster car.
2. Don't try to BS that saftey tech's they are there for a reason.
3. Be honest and ask questions, if your new don't feel bad you won't be treated wrongly.
Prep:
4. You more than likely DONT need racing fuel. I see this every time, a Stock Civic getting 110 unleaded fuel. New's flash, more octane is harder to burn. If your not running a HOT turbo motor, you won't need it.
5. Hood up, let your motor cool
6. Don't look stupid pulling off your backseat, or front hubcaps or what ever. Just run your car. If it's fast then maybe pull your back seat, but if you only run a 19 don't expect losing 10 pounds will drop you a second.
Stage:
7. What ever you do, DONT ROLL THROUGH THE WATER. Unless you have a treadless drag slick, a posi and drag front tires (or vice versa for you FWD's) you MUST go around the water. Thats an instant give away for the other guy that your a newb'.
8. Skip the huge "John Force" burnout. Most radial tires will stick less w/ excessive heat. The rubber curl's up and creates ball bearings which = no traction.
9. Roll slowly, light the first light and wait for the other guy if your "that cool." If not, stage both lights and focus.
...btw if you stage the second light and the first one goes off, STOP, any more and your going to have to back up (ie look like a moron).
The Tree:
10: The "tree" as it's called has the staging lights, three yellows a green and a red. Red is bad. Green is bad. Last yellow is the only light you care about. When that last yellow lights it's time to go. Leave on the last yellow, a 1.- reaction time is not good.
The Hole:
11: Myth- Auto's are slow. Reality- No they aren't. They are much faster at shifting and much easier to launch. Bring up the RPM to stall speed and baby it out of the hole. Sticks will ALWAYS leave to hard and spin the tires. No traction = no acceleration. Rember that, your only as fast as your tires will let you go. You'll learn how hard you can leave with out spinning.
The Track:
12: FLOOR IT
Shutdown area:
13: The track is ussualy clearly marked where it ends and where you can turn. Get off the track and back to your lane.
Tips and Tricks:
Keep an eye on quick lanes for the night, try to get them.
Cold air equals faster car, if it drops 10 degrees between runs, keep that in mind on your Dial in.
Traction Traction Traction
But always, be safe and smart. Be realistic, don't think you will be a master in one run. My first run ever, I smoke the tires to the 660 marker (660 feet) and ran a 16.6 at 82 mph. My second run was much improved at 14.4 at 97 mph. Traction counts.
Have fun, and oh DONT SET YOUR CAR ALARM. God that is annoying!
go to the gym and loose ten pounds... that'l be more help than the tires.... remove everything in your trunk, heres some newbe tips:
Proper drag racing technique
Ok, this is for those of you who haven't raced on a sanctioned drag way, or for those of you learning. This is based on my years of drag racing experince.
Arrival:
1. Arrive early, tech lines are long and hot. Get there early and you will start sooner when your lane is up. This is important because you will spend less time idling waiting for you turn, running all that time you spent cooling your motor. Colder motor = colder air= faster car.
2. Don't try to BS that saftey tech's they are there for a reason.
3. Be honest and ask questions, if your new don't feel bad you won't be treated wrongly.
Prep:
4. You more than likely DONT need racing fuel. I see this every time, a Stock Civic getting 110 unleaded fuel. New's flash, more octane is harder to burn. If your not running a HOT turbo motor, you won't need it.
5. Hood up, let your motor cool
6. Don't look stupid pulling off your backseat, or front hubcaps or what ever. Just run your car. If it's fast then maybe pull your back seat, but if you only run a 19 don't expect losing 10 pounds will drop you a second.
Stage:
7. What ever you do, DONT ROLL THROUGH THE WATER. Unless you have a treadless drag slick, a posi and drag front tires (or vice versa for you FWD's) you MUST go around the water. Thats an instant give away for the other guy that your a newb'.
8. Skip the huge "John Force" burnout. Most radial tires will stick less w/ excessive heat. The rubber curl's up and creates ball bearings which = no traction.
9. Roll slowly, light the first light and wait for the other guy if your "that cool." If not, stage both lights and focus.
...btw if you stage the second light and the first one goes off, STOP, any more and your going to have to back up (ie look like a moron).
The Tree:
10: The "tree" as it's called has the staging lights, three yellows a green and a red. Red is bad. Green is bad. Last yellow is the only light you care about. When that last yellow lights it's time to go. Leave on the last yellow, a 1.- reaction time is not good.
The Hole:
11: Myth- Auto's are slow. Reality- No they aren't. They are much faster at shifting and much easier to launch. Bring up the RPM to stall speed and baby it out of the hole. Sticks will ALWAYS leave to hard and spin the tires. No traction = no acceleration. Rember that, your only as fast as your tires will let you go. You'll learn how hard you can leave with out spinning.
The Track:
12: FLOOR IT
Shutdown area:
13: The track is ussualy clearly marked where it ends and where you can turn. Get off the track and back to your lane.
Tips and Tricks:
Keep an eye on quick lanes for the night, try to get them.
Cold air equals faster car, if it drops 10 degrees between runs, keep that in mind on your Dial in.
Traction Traction Traction
But always, be safe and smart. Be realistic, don't think you will be a master in one run. My first run ever, I smoke the tires to the 660 marker (660 feet) and ran a 16.6 at 82 mph. My second run was much improved at 14.4 at 97 mph. Traction counts.
Have fun, and oh DONT SET YOUR CAR ALARM. God that is annoying!