Fuel pressure & Fuel Pump, cutting out and stalling
10-08-2006, 08:31 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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Posts: 14
Fuel pressure & Fuel Pump, cutting out and stalling
I have a 93 5.0 and have had a problem for a while. At first: It studders at top end ONLY IF I AM AT FULL THROTTLE. Replaced the fuel filter, and timed it. It has new wires and the plugs are gapped correctly. also put a new TPS in and changed out the ICV out of a car that i know that had worked in and ohm'ed out the TPS ads well. Been doing this for about a monsth. 2nd: Now the alternator went out 3 days ago. Replaced it with a new one, the car now acts like its starving for gas, and i get studdering and back and cutting out through a the RPM range when driving and just in neutral. Went to the store bought a fuel Pressure checker. ( I am thinking that it may be the fuel pump) But the pressure when checked at an idle is 32 psi, but when i rev on the motor it will increase to 37 psi. Can anyone help me with this it is pissing me off and i need help bad.
10-10-2006, 02:27 PM
#4
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RE: Fuel pressure & Fuel Pump, cutting out and stalling
im having same kind of problem but has only occured since i put a breather on my valve cover, got new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, new 255lph fule pump, bbk pressure regulator, everythign checks out, pulls no codes,
10-10-2006, 03:04 PM
#5
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Central New York
Posts: 3,850
RE: Fuel pressure & Fuel Pump, cutting out and stalling
courtesy of the stickies:
Throttle Position Sensor
"The throttle position sensor is housed on top of the throttle body. This rotary-potentiometer-based device sends a voltage signal to EEC to indicate the position (and rate of change of position) of the throttle shaft. Ford service literature shows that a five-oh's throttle position sensor's signals range between .6 and 4.585 volts, the lower number indicates that the throttle is closed and the higher signaling wide-open throttle. With the engine off and the ignition key switched on, a digital voltmeter connected across the sensor's wires should read .85-1 volt. At idle, a reading of .98-1 volt is considered desirable for performance service. A TPS setting of 1 volt at idle produces 4.6-4.8 volts at wide-open throttle.
Adjustment involves loosening the pair of screws that attach the sensor to the throttle housing and rotating the sensor until the meter reading is corrected. The meter's positive lead connects to the sensor's green wire and the negative lead goes to the black wire. Due to variations in production equipment, the holes in the sensor housing may require elongation before it becomes possible to obtain the desired reading. For reference, the 1994-1995 TPS uses different-colored wires, and the hold-down holes in the sensor housing are not accessible as on previous models. In July 1989, Ford issued a Technical Service Bulletin covering hard-to-remove throttle position sensor mounting screws."
fuel pressure seems about right, have you checks the a/f ratio through the rpm range, does it lean out at top end?
Throttle Position Sensor
"The throttle position sensor is housed on top of the throttle body. This rotary-potentiometer-based device sends a voltage signal to EEC to indicate the position (and rate of change of position) of the throttle shaft. Ford service literature shows that a five-oh's throttle position sensor's signals range between .6 and 4.585 volts, the lower number indicates that the throttle is closed and the higher signaling wide-open throttle. With the engine off and the ignition key switched on, a digital voltmeter connected across the sensor's wires should read .85-1 volt. At idle, a reading of .98-1 volt is considered desirable for performance service. A TPS setting of 1 volt at idle produces 4.6-4.8 volts at wide-open throttle.
Adjustment involves loosening the pair of screws that attach the sensor to the throttle housing and rotating the sensor until the meter reading is corrected. The meter's positive lead connects to the sensor's green wire and the negative lead goes to the black wire. Due to variations in production equipment, the holes in the sensor housing may require elongation before it becomes possible to obtain the desired reading. For reference, the 1994-1995 TPS uses different-colored wires, and the hold-down holes in the sensor housing are not accessible as on previous models. In July 1989, Ford issued a Technical Service Bulletin covering hard-to-remove throttle position sensor mounting screws."
fuel pressure seems about right, have you checks the a/f ratio through the rpm range, does it lean out at top end?
10-10-2006, 03:07 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Puerto Rico
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RE: Fuel pressure & Fuel Pump, cutting out and stalling
ORIGINAL: ruger311
im having same kind of problem but has only occured since i put a breather on my valve cover, got new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, new 255lph fule pump, bbk pressure regulator, everythign checks out, pulls no codes,
im having same kind of problem but has only occured since i put a breather on my valve cover, got new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, new 255lph fule pump, bbk pressure regulator, everythign checks out, pulls no codes,
10-10-2006, 03:24 PM
#7
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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Posts: 1,770
RE: Fuel pressure & Fuel Pump, cutting out and stalling
going to kill the PCV all together tonight, im stillgettin unmetered air in b/c i put the breather on teh v/c and didnt put one on the rear PCVon the intake, this should do the trick, that or ill weld some bungs into the headers and go for the moroso crankcase evac system
10-10-2006, 04:52 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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Posts: 14
RE: Fuel pressure & Fuel Pump, cutting out and stalling
well my car is still running terrible. I need to get this problem fixed stat. does anyone know anything about this problem that I am having. &n update to the problem; if I only press the gas a small amount it will gradually gain spped with no problem, but if I press anywhere beyond 20 percent it stutters and sometimes will backfire
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