One last chnace at EFI before switch to carb
#1
One last chnace at EFI before switch to carb
The problem is that it will only idle at 1500 RPM. If you ease into the gas the RPMs will increase but if you hit it it will just fall on its face and die. Every time I have changed the plugs they have been really rich. The FP is set at 39. It just started doing this out of the blue. And Yes it has gas in it. Along with this not running correctly issue, there also seems to be a problem with the ignition. We can now only start the car by jumping the solenoid (spelling?).
Here is a link to a video I made in case it helps.
http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...t=100_0596.flv
I am currently on my way to get an OBD reader. I have tried to get the codes with a test light but the light just stays on, so I dont know if I am doing it right.
Current mods:
victor jr heads (iron)
1.6 roller rockers
10:1 flat top pistons
bored 30 over
and the cam located here http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=35-518-8
Converted to MAF
GT40 intake
70 mm TB
24lb injectors with calibrated for them
Custom Chip for combo
Things I have checked several times:
Distributor (replaced the whole thing)
Coil
Wires
Plugs
TPS
AIC
Computer (replaced with good one from another car)
MAF (replaced with good one from another car)
Checked all the fuses
Checked wires from MAF conversion
Remove chip
Vacuum leaks
I have exhausted everything I know to try. Any ideas would be appreciated. And sorry for the long post.
Zach
Here is a link to a video I made in case it helps.
http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...t=100_0596.flv
I am currently on my way to get an OBD reader. I have tried to get the codes with a test light but the light just stays on, so I dont know if I am doing it right.
Current mods:
victor jr heads (iron)
1.6 roller rockers
10:1 flat top pistons
bored 30 over
and the cam located here http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=35-518-8
Converted to MAF
GT40 intake
70 mm TB
24lb injectors with calibrated for them
Custom Chip for combo
Things I have checked several times:
Distributor (replaced the whole thing)
Coil
Wires
Plugs
TPS
AIC
Computer (replaced with good one from another car)
MAF (replaced with good one from another car)
Checked all the fuses
Checked wires from MAF conversion
Remove chip
Vacuum leaks
I have exhausted everything I know to try. Any ideas would be appreciated. And sorry for the long post.
Zach
#2
RE: One last chnace at EFI before switch to carb
sounds like your timing is WAY off... what are you running for plugs, what kind of gap,
Your car definitly sounds like its dropping spark. I dont hear any knocking or pinging so its likely not a fuel issue. What kind of distributor did you install?
fill us in with some exact details and i'll see if i can get you pointed in the right direction
Your car definitly sounds like its dropping spark. I dont hear any knocking or pinging so its likely not a fuel issue. What kind of distributor did you install?
fill us in with some exact details and i'll see if i can get you pointed in the right direction
#4
RE: One last chnace at EFI before switch to carb
OK, the timing was off about 10*. I fixed that while trying to get some codes to read and the car ran great. However, when I disconnected the OBD scanner, the car went to crap again (like what is in the video). After messing around with the car for a bit more I have come to this conclusion: If the scan tool is connected and the light is on (constant, not blinking) the car ran great, but if you disconnect the scan tool it goes to crap again instantly. The car runs like crap when the light is not on and the scan tool is connected also.
The distributor is Mastercraft (OEM?) with MSD cap, rotor and coil. I ran it like this for a year with no problems. The distributor I swapped with to check was the same except different cap/rotor brand.
Anyone have any clue wtf is going on here? I can get some video of this if someone wants/needs to see it to try to come up with something.
Zach
The distributor is Mastercraft (OEM?) with MSD cap, rotor and coil. I ran it like this for a year with no problems. The distributor I swapped with to check was the same except different cap/rotor brand.
Anyone have any clue wtf is going on here? I can get some video of this if someone wants/needs to see it to try to come up with something.
Zach
#7
RE: One last chnace at EFI before switch to carb
It happened at towards the end of a tranny swap. The car had run good for awhile while it was in the air and everything worked as it should. And then one time, the crap hit the fan and I started having all these problems. Just swapped a T5 for a T5.
Zach
Zach
#8
RE: One last chnace at EFI before switch to carb
Yea I had a problem kind of similar to this, but mine was a intake leak. Specifically on the bottomside of the upper intake, one of those hoses wasn't connected popped it on and ran great again. I know you checked for all the intake leaks but sometimes you miss stuff you know? Maybe a hose is rotted?
#9
RE: One last chnace at EFI before switch to carb
Hey you stole my idenity, my name is Zach and I have a canyon red 86 too.
That cam is pretty decent sized for a 302. Did you have the car dyno tuned and they burned a chip or did you have a company burn you chip based on your mods. I'm running a much milder setup then you and I had worse problems w/ efi. My new setup I stayed with carb and just started the motor today. The thing runs great. After breaking the cam in I set the idle and the car idled perfectly. My cam is 224/224 duration, 500/500 lift. The idle stay right at 750 and doesn't move at all. I would stick with carb if you don't have to worry about emissions. You'll be able to tune the car much easier.
That cam is pretty decent sized for a 302. Did you have the car dyno tuned and they burned a chip or did you have a company burn you chip based on your mods. I'm running a much milder setup then you and I had worse problems w/ efi. My new setup I stayed with carb and just started the motor today. The thing runs great. After breaking the cam in I set the idle and the car idled perfectly. My cam is 224/224 duration, 500/500 lift. The idle stay right at 750 and doesn't move at all. I would stick with carb if you don't have to worry about emissions. You'll be able to tune the car much easier.
#10
RE: One last chnace at EFI before switch to carb
Here is what I was talking about with the code reader.
http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...t=100_0597.flv
Zach
http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...t=100_0597.flv
Zach