Dbeck002

Ok here is the story. I went out for a drive one day in sheila (my stang) and unfortunately the engine died at a stop sign not far from my house. The reason I'm pretty sure was the battery because i left my truck open the night before and it seemed to eat up my battery when i turned on the A/C. Ok that was the first problem, i jump started the car with my girlfriends and darted back home ASAP. Ok when I got home, i turned on the car the next day and she started and idled just fine. Everything was ok, then I moved her to my garage and jacked her up on some stands and started fidgeting with her parts. I pulled out the radiator, flushed out the fluid, took off the smog pump and radiator fan and belt, took out all the smog tubing and block the EGR coolant passages. Ok then I put everything back together and filled her up with radiator fluid 50/50 antifreeze/water. Started her up and the idle was smooth or so it seemed. About 2 days later which was last night she performed like a pro, not a hickup until i was driving for about 2 hours, then on my home from a friends house at 4 AM she dies again. Battery it seemed, thank god a nice man with a tow truck saw me and attempted to jump start. She would start for 3 seconds then die!! even with pumping the gas!!! OMG SHEILA BABY.... Ok so the guy told me that the engine was hot, i look at the temp gauge and it looks like 170-180 degrees so i dont understand why it was hot, and it sure as hell felt hot!!!! could my temp gauge be ****ed up this whole time i was running the car and it was hot and i caused severe damage!!?? PLEASE SAY NO!!! well i left it at a burger king overnight, poor sheila had to sleep alone. When i got back to her at 2 oclock today she started up fine and ran again (after she cooled down), this is a hint that the engine is getting slightly too hot. Could it be? why isnt the gauge telling me so? WHAT IS GOING ON HERE!!! HEEEEEEELLLLLPPPP MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!










Thanks.
Sheilas owner.

mdvaldosta

Check your alternator, sounds like your problem. Put a voltmeter on the battery with the car running and it should read 14~ volts, and the battery should read 12~ volts with the car off. The battery is obviously fine if its starting your car - so your car is running off the battery until its drained and no more power to operate the fuel pump and ECU. When a good battery sits it will "self rejuvinate" so to speak to a degree.

You can always go to Advance Auto or Autozone to have your charging system checked if you can't do it at home.

Dbeck002

hmmm, maybe it is the alternator. But if it was why would the car run for like 2 hours then die all of a sudden? do you think its an overheating problem????

mdvaldosta

Anything is possible, well let me ask you this - after the car dies does it start right back up - as it does the starter turn over and the car cranks but just dont start running? or does the starter not turn over unless you get a jump?

Dbeck002

The starter turns over and then the car idles for 3 to 5 seconds. Then I hear it dying on me, i rev it up and it will rev but then just die after a few seconds. I really dont know what it is. It does this only when the engine is warm.


EDIT:

This occured even before i took my smog pump offline and plugged my EGR lines. I suspect it has nothing to do with this mod but its purely an electrical problem. I dont know why it happens on when the engine is hot though.

roundman

This is a wild *** guess, but when you say you plugged the EGR lines, do you mean the cooling lines going to/from the spacer? I can't exactly remember but the engine temp sensor for the computer is in the metal tube line that these lines come off of and it could be that if you plugged them, the coolant flow is not going past the sensor like it should and once the sensor heats up too much, the ECU is cutting the car off to protect it from overheating. Instead of plugging the cooling lines, try using a piece of metal tubing to splice them together so the flow still goes through them but not the spacer and see if this helps cure your problem. Or just hook them back up to the spacer block and see if this helps. If it does, you can go back and bypass the block later. BTW, the temperature sensor for the gauge is a different one than the one going to the ECU, so it could be reading normal but the other might be hot.

vfast

I think your right again my friend..
also you need to pull the semsor and put foil around it and lay it back on the intake and put a plug in the hole..the engine soon light then will stay off...damn my lil tricks..I need to strat charging for them

Dbeck002

ok roundman i will put the EGR coolant lines back and see if that helps. Also, i think the problem might be a fuel thing, because when i was in the middle of driving i felt like i hit a brick wall, this might be fuel cut because i was almost on empty. But when i went to start it a day later it ran fine. Could be a fuel problem, maybe air in the system or water.

NOS/MAN

man my car run 190 ,,,,205 with a/c on got 408 12,1 compression

Dbeck002

Ok one more thing, i just checked the battery and alternator. The battery shows a good 12 volts when the car is off and the alternator shows 14.5 volts on the money when charging. There seems to be no problem with either, i know voltage doesnt show battery capacity but i am pretty sure the battery is plenty full. I lean towards my evaluation of the fuel system, i did an EEC check with a voltmeter and got 2 codes, 85 first then 14. there seems to be a problem with my fuel pressure, the EEC says its too high, but how can this lead to the problems when the engine is hot and fine when its cold? weird.....