DukeU03

what exactly is the difference other than the long block comes with cylinder heads? and what parts are necessary to get a short block running? same question for a long block?

fuel injected would be the route either way

86HOGT

It all depends but on the long block but, the short block is definetly bare bones. Just the rotating assembly, crank rods pistons, timing gears and chain, and cam are included in a short block. In a long block there will definetly be everything in the short block plus heads lifters and pushrods. Depending on the company, it may include an oil pan, timing chain cover, valve covers, and rarely an intake manifold.

StangTangGT

yea i agree with 86HOgt, thats why long blocks are considerably more than short blocks. they are more than "just the heads". id say they are a good deal though usually. that is, the long blocks. and if you are someone who doesnt know too much but has the cash and are looking for a street machine then you can usually just bolt on the manifold, headers, distributer,and water pump and your ready to go. i wouldnt want to let go of my efi system either. but then the short block youll have to buy heads, head gaskets, pushrods, new roller rockers, and new lifters and i cant remember whether a short comes with a cam or not but you will have to buy that too if so. if you are experienced enough and want to make that your project then id say go with the short block.

oh yea oil pan, main girdle, windage tray and possibly oil pump for both applications short or long

DukeU03

thanks for the help, on a long block efi what parts would i need to complete the fuel injection if i wanted to do an entirely new one (not use any of the parts i have left from the stock engine) including fuel pump, fuel pump relay...thanks...

StangTangGT

well depends on the engine size but if it is a 300-400 h.p. motor then id recommend the 24# injectors, i think bbk sells hi-flow fuel rails, but youll just have to look around. i think the stock fuel pump flows the 24's just fine, plus its an in tank fuel pump so youll have to drain it, and drop it which i heard is not easy, so but if you just want to do it, then a 155lph fuel pump would support it just fine. plus also you can get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to bump up the psi to the new injectors. and with the regulator again you wouldnt really need to bump the fuel pump higher with only 24# injectors. but the stock fuel rails flow just fine and the aftermarket ones can get pretty pricey so id just go with the injectors and regulator but thats just me.

DukeU03

i think im gonna be running closer to 500hp, does that make a difference in your reccomendations or no?
thanks

roundman

If you really plan on making that much HP, you need to really think hard about getting a stout short or long block from a good engine building shop. You will need to use forged internals like the crank, rods, pistons, etc and will need a really good flowing set of heads with large valves and a lot of porting done to them to improve the flow. The right cam for the combination is critical and so is the compression ratio. For some ideas on what you really need to get to that level, you could call several engine building shops or the Ford tech hot line at 586-468-1356 and talk to the pros about what they would recommend you do to get to 500 HP.
Remember the golden rule of motorsports: SPEED COSTS MONEY, HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO? [sm=goodidea.gif][sm=trust_me.gif]

DukeU03

paws offers a long blcok 351 stroked to 427 for 3000 and it puts out about 450hp, i feel like for the price thats not a bad way to go i dont think the internals are forged, though, i am also curious if anyone know a way to ballpark guess torque with out actually getttin a dyno, this way i can try and figure out what kind of tranny im gonna need, thanks guys for all the input

roundman

like I said earlier, call the Ford tech line!

619socalstang

tk-500 or tk-600 from tremek will handle the torque of a 500hp smallblock.