dimebag

let me rephrase... WC is stock from a certain year and up... i know my 88 is a WC t5... i dont know what year they went from a regular to a WC tho....

and what did grinding down the dog teeth do good for it? those are the teeth on the gear that connect w. the syncros when its put in gear right? so what good would that do to lessen them? not saying your wrong... just tryin to learn a little more about trannys...

88blackgt

you dont bore it to get more cubes, you bore it to get a "new" cylinder wall. you want to go as little overbore as possible. the way you pick up cubes is to stroke it. 408 is popular w/ 351s, a 408 w/ a forged rotating assembly would be a very good foundation to make some good #s

94gtcoupe

i had a hard time understanding this at first too... i talked to mr. hanlon on the phone for about 2 hours having him explain it... yea the dog teeth are what the gear rides on... have you ever notices that most people say there tranny blew up when the missed a shift(usualy 2 to 3 shift) grinding every so many teeth allow the tranny to engage easier and puts less stress on it... when syncros go bad its't from normal wear and tear or grinding the gears not to much power... i can explain this better if you are still having trouble...


nmerrill it's not the factor freak thing, and the tranny is a little on the weak side but usualy the tranny breaks from the way it's driven not the power, take a t-5 and put it in a car with 750 whp or so put it in gear and take off normale then stand on it once the clutch is all the way out the tranny with be fine. atleast 90% of the time when a t-5 "fails" or breaks isn't on it's way in or out of a gear wich is almost always the driver... i'm not saying the t-5 is unbreakable but if driven decently it will take the power, i have seen a t-5e a 6k launch on a regular basis ( every weekend at the track for 5 months) and the tranny still shifts smooth remember this is an all stock tranny with dog teeth removed, and a little less backlash than stock ( nothing major like hardend gears or shafts, etc.)

dimebag

ok so basically what it does is allows it to grind some going into gear... as to not wear on other parts of the trans? if thats the case, i assume syncros get gone thru a little faster?

BAM614

Can you guys list some parts that I'll need/links to where I can buy it? I've never "built" a motor before so I'm not sure what all is there, I have a good idea, but again, not everything.

Also, anyone recommend a shop in Ohio?

94gtcoupe

the opposite of that, syncros usualt grind on normal use more so when you shift hard... buy grinding some of them down it leaves an open space so that the teeth that would grind togetherare not there to beable to grind, it actualy lengthens the life of the syncro and the tranny since it doesn't have to work as hard to get into gears... have you ever shifter the car with out the clutch by matching the rmps and just gently pushing? it's kinda like that but less time consumming.... i think i'm going to start a post just for questions on t-5 it's hard to jump from one post and answer 5 questions then jump to another and answer 5 different questions lol... let me know if this helps you understanf this a little better....

i do not suggest trying to grind any of the teeth off of the tranny my yourself talk to a high performance tranny shop and get them to do it... i do not take responability it you do this on your own and to it wrong, there fore i will not tell you what teethe to grind, or explain how to go about doing this prosses

dimebag

ok, makes perfect sense now...thanks bro...

94gtcoupe

not a problem, just had to make a disclaimer realy fast, cuz i know someone out there was prolly getting some ideas

silver91gt

consider an aftermarket block, if I was to do it again I would have went with a 427 (351 stroker), and a 100 shot of nitrous, and lots of compression.

351 strokers make 400rwhp+ easily on motor.