h, c , or i?
#11
RE: h, c , or i?
i love iron gt40's
not p's , real 40's like from a '93 cobra
if you can find them locally you'll save the $100 in shipping, usually sell for $300
spend about $600 in port work , port and polish the exhaust, port the intakes, and a nice valve job
not doing half that work i just described, my buddy went 11.80 on a full weight '92 GT 5-speed, w/ 4.10's full slicks and 125 shot NOS dry kit , also had a real gt40 intake.
it'll save the time of doing the intake at the same time, and a cam is only $150 too.
i am looking to for iron 40's myself right now, or get ahold of detroit speedshops, the roseville MI store has aluminum cnc'd 180's for less $900 , they are limited, they are the leftover stock from some company going out of business, and being bought out from someone else, if i can gat the cash b4 they arre all gone, i'll have a pair.
the cnc work is ok, not like a really nice handport, but it gets the job done.
not p's , real 40's like from a '93 cobra
if you can find them locally you'll save the $100 in shipping, usually sell for $300
spend about $600 in port work , port and polish the exhaust, port the intakes, and a nice valve job
not doing half that work i just described, my buddy went 11.80 on a full weight '92 GT 5-speed, w/ 4.10's full slicks and 125 shot NOS dry kit , also had a real gt40 intake.
it'll save the time of doing the intake at the same time, and a cam is only $150 too.
i am looking to for iron 40's myself right now, or get ahold of detroit speedshops, the roseville MI store has aluminum cnc'd 180's for less $900 , they are limited, they are the leftover stock from some company going out of business, and being bought out from someone else, if i can gat the cash b4 they arre all gone, i'll have a pair.
the cnc work is ok, not like a really nice handport, but it gets the job done.
#12
RE: h, c , or i?
ORIGINAL: dimebag
pointless? ima have to dissagree w. that... youll get a gain outa em... but which would give the biggest... i assume its either heads or intake, but idk.... tho i agree they have more potential together, separate youll still see improvement...
ORIGINAL: mattdel
well if i had to pick 1, i'd go with heads... but like you said yourself... they're pointless to upgrade unless done together.
well if i had to pick 1, i'd go with heads... but like you said yourself... they're pointless to upgrade unless done together.
As you already stated, you won't get the full potential if you only do one at a time (until you are done with all three.) And on top of that you are wasting a ton of extra manhours and money doing it seperately. I don't see the point of spending more time and money to get less of a gain.
As far as which one is better... I ahve always said that heads are the best bang-for-your-buck mod. Meaning that when compared to the other bolt ons (exhaust, pulleys, CAI, intakes, etc) you will get more HP-per-dollar with heads than any of the others (not counting forced induction of course.)
#13
RE: h, c , or i?
whats the deal w. these afr heads? i hear there one of the best... but theres a few diff ones, which do i go w.? and why?.... i assume afr is gonna be more expensive... but thats ok.
#14
RE: h, c , or i?
ORIGINAL: nitrous_bob
i love iron gt40's
not p's , real 40's like from a '93 cobra
if you can find them locally you'll save the $100 in shipping, usually sell for $300
spend about $600 in port work , port and polish the exhaust, port the intakes, and a nice valve job
not doing half that work i just described, my buddy went 11.80 on a full weight '92 GT 5-speed, w/ 4.10's full slicks and 125 shot NOS dry kit , also had a real gt40 intake.
it'll save the time of doing the intake at the same time, and a cam is only $150 too.
i am looking to for iron 40's myself right now, or get ahold of detroit speedshops, the roseville MI store has aluminum cnc'd 180's for less $900 , they are limited, they are the leftover stock from some company going out of business, and being bought out from someone else, if i can gat the cash b4 they arre all gone, i'll have a pair.
the cnc work is ok, not like a really nice handport, but it gets the job done.
i love iron gt40's
not p's , real 40's like from a '93 cobra
if you can find them locally you'll save the $100 in shipping, usually sell for $300
spend about $600 in port work , port and polish the exhaust, port the intakes, and a nice valve job
not doing half that work i just described, my buddy went 11.80 on a full weight '92 GT 5-speed, w/ 4.10's full slicks and 125 shot NOS dry kit , also had a real gt40 intake.
it'll save the time of doing the intake at the same time, and a cam is only $150 too.
i am looking to for iron 40's myself right now, or get ahold of detroit speedshops, the roseville MI store has aluminum cnc'd 180's for less $900 , they are limited, they are the leftover stock from some company going out of business, and being bought out from someone else, if i can gat the cash b4 they arre all gone, i'll have a pair.
the cnc work is ok, not like a really nice handport, but it gets the job done.
#15
RE: h, c , or i?
yea i do agree its more work, but ill be doing the work myself... and have to tare the top end up soon any way to put in some new gaskets..so yea... tho i do agree, i was just wondering which was worht more hp, heads it is... thanks.
#16
RE: h, c , or i?
ORIGINAL: dimebag
yea i do agree its more work, but ill be doing the work myself... and have to tare the top end up soon any way to put in some new gaskets..so yea... tho i do agree, i was just wondering which was worht more hp, heads it is... thanks.
yea i do agree its more work, but ill be doing the work myself... and have to tare the top end up soon any way to put in some new gaskets..so yea... tho i do agree, i was just wondering which was worht more hp, heads it is... thanks.
#17
RE: h, c , or i?
to get a whole motor for $350 i'd do it
then spend the cash for good port work, extrude hone the upper and lower explorer intake , and that would run.
but if buying for what most people sell them for, they are not worth it IMO
yeah the afr's are great , you want the smaller cc's for a street car , it's not so much about air quantity, than air velocity
just like if you crazy port a head, you'll move a TON air, but w/out forced induction, you'll move it too slowly and actually lose power rather than make it.
1.9/1.6 valves, and the smaller cc's is what you should be looking for.
then spend the cash for good port work, extrude hone the upper and lower explorer intake , and that would run.
but if buying for what most people sell them for, they are not worth it IMO
yeah the afr's are great , you want the smaller cc's for a street car , it's not so much about air quantity, than air velocity
just like if you crazy port a head, you'll move a TON air, but w/out forced induction, you'll move it too slowly and actually lose power rather than make it.
1.9/1.6 valves, and the smaller cc's is what you should be looking for.
#18
RE: h, c , or i?
yea i have to do the headgasket as well... and an oilpan gasket(i no it has nothing to do w. the top half, lol), so ill prob do just about all of them... when i do my trans... so rear main seal will get done too... goin all the way to head gaskets, ima need just about everything else, lol. and will prob be able to aford heads, might throw them on there... itd make the gasket change alot more fun, lol.
#20
RE: h, c , or i?
ORIGINAL: nitrous_bob
to get a whole motor for $350 i'd do it
then spend the cash for good port work, extrude hone the upper and lower explorer intake , and that would run.
but if buying for what most people sell them for, they are not worth it IMO
yeah the afr's are great , you want the smaller cc's for a street car , it's not so much about air quantity, than air velocity
just like if you crazy port a head, you'll move a TON air, but w/out forced induction, you'll move it too slowly and actually lose power rather than make it.
1.9/1.6 valves, and the smaller cc's is what you should be looking for.
to get a whole motor for $350 i'd do it
then spend the cash for good port work, extrude hone the upper and lower explorer intake , and that would run.
but if buying for what most people sell them for, they are not worth it IMO
yeah the afr's are great , you want the smaller cc's for a street car , it's not so much about air quantity, than air velocity
just like if you crazy port a head, you'll move a TON air, but w/out forced induction, you'll move it too slowly and actually lose power rather than make it.
1.9/1.6 valves, and the smaller cc's is what you should be looking for.