car dies.so i'm gonna kill it.
#1
car dies.so i'm gonna kill it.
i put in a new shortblock and rebuilt ported and polished and milled heads(real gt40's). along with a 190lph fuel pump mac exhaust and the rest of my previous bolt ons. the shortblock is a dss 306 pro bullet with the main support and windage tray.
the problem..
it starts like crap. it doesn't turn over unless i give it hella gas then it idles fine but does not run like i put 2k into the motor.(it felt faster with the e7 heads and stock 130k mile block.)if i try to get on it , it dies. i'm gonna put it in the shop but i want to find a perormance oriented shop. also could you guys give me pointers on things to ask for. i'm at my wits end and have no patience for it right now the thing is a money pit. i don't mind throwing money at it but i would like a little pay off.
it's timed at 14*
fuel pressure is at 40 psi
the problem..
it starts like crap. it doesn't turn over unless i give it hella gas then it idles fine but does not run like i put 2k into the motor.(it felt faster with the e7 heads and stock 130k mile block.)if i try to get on it , it dies. i'm gonna put it in the shop but i want to find a perormance oriented shop. also could you guys give me pointers on things to ask for. i'm at my wits end and have no patience for it right now the thing is a money pit. i don't mind throwing money at it but i would like a little pay off.
it's timed at 14*
fuel pressure is at 40 psi
#6
RE: car dies.so i'm gonna kill it.
if timing was that sinificantly off wouldn't it miss or backfire? and though i am flowing more air i doubt it would be this drastic i have to like floor it to get it to start. the cam is timed correctly the distributor i kinda just got the motor at tdc and pointed the rotor to the #1 plug on the cap.
#7
RE: car dies.so i'm gonna kill it.
You are getting too much fuel. Your injectors don't flow any more fuel when cranking under WOT than they would under CT. You are starting it in "de-flood mode" as we refer to it at Ford. This is allowing more air into the engine thus making the large amount of fuel easier to ignite.
Now, why is it rich on startup....... You may have a leaking injector. You can measure the amount of fuel pressure bleed off with a gauge (interior or manual gauge if you have one). It shouldn't bleed more than 5psi in an hour. Remove your plugs and have a looksee. If they are black or wet with fuel - she's getting wayyyy to much gas. Your MAF is not a factor when cranking, but it may be the reason it bogs when driving. Either way, its flooding if it only starts with your foot on the gas.
Now, why is it rich on startup....... You may have a leaking injector. You can measure the amount of fuel pressure bleed off with a gauge (interior or manual gauge if you have one). It shouldn't bleed more than 5psi in an hour. Remove your plugs and have a looksee. If they are black or wet with fuel - she's getting wayyyy to much gas. Your MAF is not a factor when cranking, but it may be the reason it bogs when driving. Either way, its flooding if it only starts with your foot on the gas.
#10
RE: car dies.so i'm gonna kill it.
+1, on the timing and gas. It only pops when under load right? Usually indicates a lean pop but this can also happen when its WAY too rich. As far as setting your timing goes, I always set my cars (EFI or carb) to throttle response. The way I do it is, I loosen the disty, just enough where it wont turn by itself but you can still move it by hand. I start the car, and rev it, Ill move the disty around until I get no throttle lag. (thats why its easier to time a carb,IMO). Certain EFi systems have throttle lag built in to them, but if youve got an aftermarket tune, there shouldnt be ANY. When you time it, youll notice its usually pretty deadnuts on, I timed my '85 this way, when I checked it, it was @ 13*.
-P.
-P.