fordboyyfm

Just wondering what you guys do to get your car to run right. heres what ive got
347, afr 185, vic jr efi manfolds, 30lb, 75mm tb and 76mm, maf, msd box cam has 560/575 lift and 290/310 duration.

Im going to have to do something to get the rpm limiter raised up allot, but would the car run right with a stock pcm, or is there someone who really knows there stuff and can burn me a chip using all my specs.

Also wont be using o2 sensors or egr or thermactor setup, so i need something to keep the check engine light off.

so you guys with similar setups, what did you do to run efi and make it run right.

Of course im asing this to keep from spending a grand on an engine managment system.

live4motocross11

you could go to and acual shop and have it dyno tuned for a couple hundred bucks probaly

silver91gt

fordboyyfm

anyone else?

vristang

What year is this Mustang?

Any chip that is mailed to you will not be ideal.
Either go to a shop with a Dyno and the ability to burn you a chip.
OR
Invest in a personal tuner like tweecer, pms, tunerpro, moates, etc.

Either option will make increasing the rev limiter a cake walk.

Why on earth are you removing the O2 sensors?
Even on a track only car this not a good idea.
Before deciding to try and bypass the EFI computer, do a little reading on how it works. There is a book called Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control written by Probst.
This will explain why the computer is an advantage, not disadvantage.

Your duration is total? Not @ .050"?

Investing in a tuner or getting a dyno tune is the best way to make EFI work RIGHT.
It is expensive, but after using my tweecer for several months on my 408w, I don't know why I didn't invest in it sooner.
It is worth the money, especially with larger cams and Aftermarket MAF meters.

jason

fordboyyfm

well i will be unsing the o2s afterall. the engine harness i was give, i was told the o2s and egr stuff was all removed. turns out the o2s are still there,so i will put them in. Im not trying to bypass the computer, im trying to get everything to work right with it, theres no way to bypass it.I know exactly how these things work, im a ford tech so i know everything the computer does and why. but the thing is going to be so out of wack when it runs,im not sure it will run right.

WLingle92lx

You dont have to get a tune but you should.
That is not a simple combination that you can just slap ogether and expect it to run perfect.

I bet you could get at least an extra 30rwhp from that motor if you get a tune.

When I first put my new 306 together I thought it ran awesome. But when I went to get it tuned I found out ithad a very rich 10.2 A/F. With that A/F it made 317rwhp thefirst pull. After4hrs of tuning they got it to make 357rwhp @6550 Rpmwith an 11.7 A/F, 17* advance timing, 33* total timing & 40psi fuel pressure. It would have a lean spike at 6500-6700 rpm so they bumped the fuel pressure up to 50psi and back they timing down to 30* total. It then made 335rwhp/ 315rwtq. I'm happy with that !

So I gained 40rwhp out of a tuned.
With my old basic 302 H/C/I combo I only gained 4rwhp from a tune. Sometimes you gain 5rwhp and sometimes you gain 100rwhp. The more radical the engine the more important it is to have a tune.

vristang

I will probably come off as an @$$ hole, but that is not my intent!

If you new how everything worked you NEVER would have considered running without O2's.

By working in a Ford shop I a am sure you have developed some excellent troubleshooting and diagnostic skills.
Diagnostic skills are VERY different from tuning skills however. I still recommend the above book. If you have never done any Reprogramming/Tuning of an EEC-IV, then you aren't as knowledgable about your EEC as you think.
Your experience as a Ford Tech will provide a solid foundation for learning how to tune the EEC-IV, but don't think that you currently have the needed skills just because of your current job.

I am not saying this to discourage you.
If anything I hope that you are encouraged to learn more.
Hit a couple of tuning websites, like http://eectuning.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=2and see how much makes sense.


I asked about the duration numbers on your cam-
If the duration you provided is overall (measured @ .006" usually), then your stock A9* computer should do fairly well, assuming the MAF/Injectors are matched to the EEC. It may run rich/lean depending on the overlap, but it should run fairly well.
If the duration listed is @ .050", then you will REALLY want to tune the computer. Thestock tunewill barely idle with that much duration.

Another major issue that you have not answered is what year the car is.
The computer in the sn95 5.0 Mustangs will not accept as much modification without tuning.
The sn95 computer is still a great computer, but it is less tolerant of modifications.

A custom dyno tune will probably run you 500 to 800 dollars.
This will include dyno time and a custom tune burned on a J3 chip.
This is a fairly reasonable option, if you won't be making frequent changes to the car.

If other modifications are planned, then a personal(TwEECer, PMS, Moates, etc,) tuner would be a better option. There will be some time needed to learn how to utilize each of these tools, but in the long run you will be able to retune the car any time you make a change, free of cost.
The tweecer R/T is going to be $550, and includes the ability to datalog.

If you are serious about looking into the tweecer, I have some good resources on my site (provided in my sig). I am more than willing to help you get started, as several other guys were willing to help me when I was starting out.

Good Luck,
jason

Evil_F

Here is my suggestion.

APEXI SAFC II, (if you have any concept on how to tune)

w8less

what kinda car is this in fox or sn car? if its in a fox it will run a little better but will still need to be tuned. if its in a sn car it Definately needs to be tuned cause it won't idle for crap trust me from personal experience