sqrlnts

Just passing on some info I learned.I amrunning 17x9 cobras with C springs all around and no isolators front or rear. I found thatmy rims wererubbing bad when turning and also the tires were rubbing the front fenders. I found a cure though. I used a wooden hammer handle and GENTLY rolled the front fenders. You can stick the handle in between the fender and the tire and "work" the inner fender out just enough to not rub. Don't go crazy just force the inner fender skirt against the fender.
My rim lip was also rubbing at full lock on the lower rear a-arm right on the jack reinforcement. The jacking supports are held on with two 1" welds. These can be removed easily with a cutoff wheel. No more rubbing, less weight too.
Peace.

7upedition

yup, it's called roller the inner fender lip... HowToRollFenders

I wouldn't advise cutting off the jack supports unless you have subframes to jack up on. jmo though

But good info nutty, a lot of people may not know about this quick freebie. [8D]

HACKGT350

nice dude sounds good

ruger311

good job man, but would rather buy that nice tool to make it all perfect instead of the baseball bat trick!

7upedition

the tools about $250, it works just as well, you can use any rounded object, pipe, bat, bar, etc. unless you have a lot of cars to do the tool is a waste of money in my opinion.

larsif

AFS sells staggered 17" rims. They have an 8" wide rim for the front and a 9" for the rim. This solves the rubbing problem in the front. I run 255/40 in the front with Eibach Pro springs without any rubbing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AFS-7...71864087QQrdZ1

The rear tires should be 275/40 to look right so I would order just the rims without tires.

[IMG]local://upfiles/27757/D6A3146EC64E4DDBAF8BFC1E2FA52813.jpg[/IMG]

7upedition

larsif, I'm going with 235/40/R17 on 17x9 wheels and 255/40/R17 in the rear on 17x9 wheels, how do you think it'll look? Will it rub? I'll have mods in sig...thanks

JeffUtica

Those plates welded to the control armsare not for jacking. They're there so "if" the tire hits the control arm at full lock and/or under full compression of suspensionthe tire doesn't hit the sharp edge of the control arm and shred/shave the tire or lock it up. I would recommend welding them back on and installing rack limiter bushings instead.


[IMG]local://upfiles/39139/ED64083CCC3C450EAEBB21E6C177E6EC.jpg[/IMG]

Evil_F

You need to cut slits (with a grinder) in the metal lip that hangs so it will roll better. That lip wont just fold over. If you cut slits in it, you can just push/roll them in with your hand. Cut your slits like a 1/2 inch from each other, and to the edge so they arent noticable. If you cut your slits to far appart they wont fold easily, and will wrinkle and cause warping in the lip. Here is a quick pic I drew up.

You will have to remove the plastic inserts. For the rears it is a little more complicated because there are 2 sheets of metal welded together, and it wont roll. To stiff. If your edges arent rolled well, they can cut your tire.

7upedition

You heat the fender with a heat gun, then roll it, this way no sharp edges, and if you take your time and are careful you won't distort the fender, with the slits... all your doing is creating an area for rust to form. But yes it makes it easier.