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roll cage question

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Old 01-01-2007, 07:02 AM
  #21  
grabbem88
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Default RE: roll cage question

4-450 will turn into 5-650..ect,ect. if you value your life,and you race.street/track whatever<your choice.

i'm getting one.for two reasons.my family,and i'm 4tenths from being shut down at my track...rules are rules..also i'm ordering a nice kit pretty soon
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Old 01-01-2007, 03:43 PM
  #22  
silver91gt
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Default RE: roll cage question

ORIGINAL: grabbem88

4-450 will turn into 5-650..ect,ect. if you value your life,and you race.street/track whatever<your choice.

i'm getting one.for two reasons.my family,and i'm 4tenths from being shut down at my track...rules are rules..also i'm ordering a nice kit pretty soon
it always does, after a while you just get used to the power and need more.
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Old 01-01-2007, 05:48 PM
  #23  
20yrNotch
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Default RE: roll cage question

as far as suspension goes i planned on getting a stang box, with some kind of control arms. Definatly not stock, i dont know anything about tires so thats up in the air. The car had a V8 swap done to it so yea, the front and rear suspension will get beefed up and it will be a street car, maybe see the track a few times. I just wasnt sure if i should get like an 8pt on top of everything else, just for chits and giggles.
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Old 01-01-2007, 05:55 PM
  #24  
SSKiller
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Default RE: roll cage question

If you have a V8 swap car then, yeah go and get the cage. That changes things.......
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Old 01-01-2007, 06:35 PM
  #25  
20yrNotch
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what changes?
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Old 01-01-2007, 08:23 PM
  #26  
JD1969
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Default RE: roll cage question

If you get sub-farme connectors you should be fine. Are you realisticly going to have that kind of power? What I usually tell people is to build a car for ET not HP. By that I mean set a realistic goal of how quick you want to go in the 1/4 and then see what other guys who run that time have done and plan your build around that. You will save money and time by doing this.
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:06 PM
  #27  
ModularFox
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Default RE: roll cage question

ORIGINAL: SSKiller

ORIGINAL: 20yrNotch

well, im actually not sure if im going to need it. its not gunna be a daily driver but i am lookin for 440-450rhwp. Plus i dont plan on ever selling this ride so i want it to be able to stand the test of time know what im sayin
You dont need a cage trust me. If it isgoing to see track duty andis very fastmaybe. The reason I have a cage is becausethe cage came with the car. If it was up to me I would cut the damn thing out of the car. However what I have planned for the car it is going to need it again. If you can get away without a cage do it.
your joking right? a 450whp mustang should be deffinatly going faster than 11.49 wich isthe limit for a non-caged car.
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Old 01-01-2007, 10:12 PM
  #28  
tinman
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Default RE: roll cage question

In NHRA you can run as fast as 10.00 with a 6 point bar.
Anything quicker than 11.49 and you need a bar. Period.
Slower than 11.49 you don't need any sort of a bar unless it's an open car.
Cars have been running low 10's with a 6 point bar for 40 years.
I think that and some frame ties are all he needs......
I'd use mild steel too.........
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Old 01-01-2007, 11:40 PM
  #29  
hotstang97gt
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Default RE: roll cage question

ORIGINAL: JD1969

It really depends on what your needs are. If you just have a 10 second or slower street strip car then a 6 point mild steel roll bar is all you will ever need, faster than that and we start talking 25.5 certs and some pretty big money ($2000-$6000). There are a few decent kits out there but remember that they are pretty generic and will not have the tight, interior hugging quality of a well built custom cage. Install prices are generally dependant on what the material is and what welding process will needed to be used. Chromoly HAS to be TIG welded, TIG is a more time consuming process and requires a lot more skill on the part of the welder. Generally I charge $75 per point on a mild steel kit cage, and $125 for TIG, a full on custom mild steel6 point will run you about $800 plus material costs, add another $100 per point if you want an 8 or 10 point. Remember that a custom cage involves bending and fitting tubes and laying out the cage itself in a design that is both functional and good looking, plus remember all the tools and equipment that the builderhas to buy (welders, benders and notchers are not cheap).I know it seems like a lot but if you want a professional install, my prices are cheap, plus some of the positions I need to contort my self into and still be able to lay a good bead are crazy. Always remember that a cage is meant to save your life, it's not really a place you want to skimp on and have "your buddy who knows how to weld" work on.
i take it your talking about me when you say that. my buddie builds dynos for this company in NH and ive seen his work and its awsome so i trust him
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Old 01-01-2007, 11:45 PM
  #30  
1BIGMOFO
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Default RE: roll cage question

i purchased the loop for the middle and had the rest built in the car, its a 10 pt. I love it. its deffinitley one of a kind. GET the hinges though its a pain getting in and out after a while!
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