smog pump removal
09-22-2004, 11:10 PM
#11
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RE: smog pump removal
Yah, we don't need to pass a test any longer, so I am planning on it, sooner or later.
Lol, I'm full of questions, here's another one for you. To eliminate the cats, originally I was just going to weld a piece of metal pipe over where the cats used to be once they are removed, but I've heard that people sell kits that would eliminate the need to weld and cut pipes ourselves. Have you heard of anything like this? What is the easiest way you know of to join up that gap once the cats are gone?
Thanks again.
Lol, I'm full of questions, here's another one for you. To eliminate the cats, originally I was just going to weld a piece of metal pipe over where the cats used to be once they are removed, but I've heard that people sell kits that would eliminate the need to weld and cut pipes ourselves. Have you heard of anything like this? What is the easiest way you know of to join up that gap once the cats are gone?
Thanks again.
09-23-2004, 12:33 AM
#13
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RE: smog pump removal
Why would I spend the money to buy a whole exhaust system? I already have aftermarket exhausts on my car, those pipes look big enough to pump oil through them to supply a small town...
I think my current exhausts are just fine thank you.
I think my current exhausts are just fine thank you.
09-23-2004, 01:24 AM
#15
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RE: smog pump removal
Not sure about the HP numbers that are "freed up" but you do increase the potential to make more HP by reducing the flow restrictions the cats present in the exhaust.
and Demon, what he was saying was to buy an off road H or X pipe only, not replace the whole exhaust sytem, would be easier and cheaper in the long run than trying to remove the mid pipe with the cats in it, cut out the cats, weld in replacement tubing to fill the gaps and then re-install the whole mess. if you just remove the existing pipe with the cats, you can hang onto it in case your locality all of a sudden decides to do emissions testing and then all you have to do is drop the off road pipe and re-install the pipe with the cats in it.
and Demon, what he was saying was to buy an off road H or X pipe only, not replace the whole exhaust sytem, would be easier and cheaper in the long run than trying to remove the mid pipe with the cats in it, cut out the cats, weld in replacement tubing to fill the gaps and then re-install the whole mess. if you just remove the existing pipe with the cats, you can hang onto it in case your locality all of a sudden decides to do emissions testing and then all you have to do is drop the off road pipe and re-install the pipe with the cats in it.
09-24-2004, 01:31 AM
#16
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RE: smog pump removal
Hehe, well, it's not that important about the cats, I was just wondering about the smog pump really, the cats only became an issue when someone said that they would need to be removed as well. Also, this is a future potential project at best, right now I barely have enough money to do anything, so I'm sticking to essentials for now, the automatic tranny swap might become essential soon.
10-02-2004, 01:35 PM
#20
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 51
RE: smog pump removal
Pleae read this before doing ANYTHING!
Some of the replies are quite amusing, "...buy a shorter belt".
Hello, 5.0's don't have "V" belts, they have serpentine belts which come in two lengths: one for engines with A/C and one without. There is no serpintine belt for cars without power steering either.
So you have to do the job the RIGHT WAY.
Check the Ford Performance, or Jeg's, Summit's, etc. catalog for an OFF ROAD AIR PUMP ELIMINATOR. The Ford part is about $US70.00, Jeg's "housebrand" is about $US55.00. I have the Jeg's unit and it is made overseas, has a PLASTIC idler wheel, and the base is made of such soft metal that it can be cross threaded VERY easy. Ask me how I know.
The Ford part is also made in Asia but seems to be the better buy overall.
What this part does is physically replace the factory air pump with an idler wheel the same diameter of the one on the factory pump. You retain the same serpintine belt as you already are using.
Two bolts have to be removed from the factory pump, they have Loc-Tite on them so it takes some effort to get them to turn the first few turns. I'd suggest that you remove the radiator (if you have the time) to give yourself more room to spin the ratchet wrench, in the long run it's worth the effort.
Oh, and don't make my mistake of cross threading the retaining bolt in the new part. The lower bracket that holds the air pump is attached to the engine with a single bolt. Loosen that bolt so that the bracket will pivot. My replacement part had the mounting holes spaced a little different then the pumps and that lead to my trying to get the retaining bolt started at an angle to the hole.
Of course the replacement doesn't come with instructions telling what to do with all the tubes that operate the air system you are replacing. One of the other replies to this question "sounds right" in regards to what needs to be done.
You will discover that when you remove the primary vacuum sorce (the large tube that runs to the carb base on the pre-F.I. vehicle) the engine timing must be played with to get the car to run decent.
Some of the replies are quite amusing, "...buy a shorter belt".
Hello, 5.0's don't have "V" belts, they have serpentine belts which come in two lengths: one for engines with A/C and one without. There is no serpintine belt for cars without power steering either.
So you have to do the job the RIGHT WAY.
Check the Ford Performance, or Jeg's, Summit's, etc. catalog for an OFF ROAD AIR PUMP ELIMINATOR. The Ford part is about $US70.00, Jeg's "housebrand" is about $US55.00. I have the Jeg's unit and it is made overseas, has a PLASTIC idler wheel, and the base is made of such soft metal that it can be cross threaded VERY easy. Ask me how I know.
The Ford part is also made in Asia but seems to be the better buy overall.
What this part does is physically replace the factory air pump with an idler wheel the same diameter of the one on the factory pump. You retain the same serpintine belt as you already are using.
Two bolts have to be removed from the factory pump, they have Loc-Tite on them so it takes some effort to get them to turn the first few turns. I'd suggest that you remove the radiator (if you have the time) to give yourself more room to spin the ratchet wrench, in the long run it's worth the effort.
Oh, and don't make my mistake of cross threading the retaining bolt in the new part. The lower bracket that holds the air pump is attached to the engine with a single bolt. Loosen that bolt so that the bracket will pivot. My replacement part had the mounting holes spaced a little different then the pumps and that lead to my trying to get the retaining bolt started at an angle to the hole.
Of course the replacement doesn't come with instructions telling what to do with all the tubes that operate the air system you are replacing. One of the other replies to this question "sounds right" in regards to what needs to be done.
You will discover that when you remove the primary vacuum sorce (the large tube that runs to the carb base on the pre-F.I. vehicle) the engine timing must be played with to get the car to run decent.