nitrous_bob

i wouldn't pay more than $500 there are too many deals out there, just gotta find them

1st off DON"T LISTEN TO POLE WHO DON"T KNOW $HIT , if they say it's too big they are dumb

you want a 3000+ converter , i had a 2200 in my '90 GT it was too stockish , hardly noticed a diff, first of all, even a 'vert is lighter than the figured weight for advertised stall speed. my '90 lx 'vert was 3400 lbs w/ 1/2 tank , the lighter the car, the lower the stall speed w/ the same converter, the lower the HP the lower the stall speed, i think you'll be lucky if you flash at about 2700 , so it is not by any means too big.

thats the starting point , go up from there, on a true dd i'd go 4.10's and 3500 w/ a c4 w/ the lower 1st gearset (2.8X) not so much DD then 4000-5000

but i use no less than 4.10's on my 5-speed cars

92hatchLX

If it's custom built they can make it stall to whatever you want it to stall at.That's another advantage to getting custom built compared to an off the shelf stall. If you have 2.73s or 3.08s I'd get the gears first, low (numerically speaking) gears and a big stall aren't a good mix even with a tranny cooler especially if you do a lot of city driving. Just give Andre at Edge Racing Converters a call and he'll set you up.

91sleeper

thanks alot guys i figured the converter topic was dead i didnt get many responses at first. I just ordered the 410's today got the ford ones NOT the "morso" ones... at least i dont think the part number is FMS-M-4209-G410A , I'm pretty sure i read that u want the ones with the part number ending in "A".
How much more power will i need b4 i need to wry about running out of gear by the end of the track??? Ohh and the tranny cooler i bought was the B&M supercooler i hope it'll get the job done and is okcuz iguess i already went wrong with the torque converter brand aparently lol
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

91sleeper

K sry u might have misunderstood that ^ , I did order that part number for the gears because they are suposed to be the Ford ones and not the Motive ones i think i put morso sry bout that and any comments on that tranny cooler ? is my TCI converter really that bad... its not gonna like break or somthing will it, its not like my car is crazy fast

91sleeper

any ideas? will i run out of gear n e time soon , is the tranny cooler a good one ? will the converter i have at least hold up

iehotrod

Need help guys with me rear end I do believe it it to be stock and I want to run this weekend at the track I don't know if I can beat my friends time of 3.63 in the 1/4 mile. I have done just about every bolton you can do except gears just put in a billet aluminum flywheel and new clutch, aluminum drive shaft. I have a five speed. with 302.

redRPMhatch

The 3000 will work well, even with the car not havng much done.

Also you don't need a manual vavlebody. All you need to do is use the 1-D-1 shuffle and it will kick when you want it to. Just remember when you kick it back to one to shift from second to third, they is a slight hesitation so shift about 400 rpm short of what you are aiming for.

Feel free to P.M. me any questions you have on the AOD, I have tons of experiance with them. MY AOD GT, I had it running 12.50's with stock heads, cam, and factory convertor.

gspfunk

Is that a 13.63? Without gears, you probably won't see 13's, IMO. Sticky tires will help a lot, but that Aluminum FW will hurt you at the track...those are for road racing and acceleration out of corners, not straightline.

Alum. FW's help your rpm's drop faster. For dragstrip performance, you want the heavier rotational mass of the stock (or steel) FW to keep the rpm's up.