rschoner

Hello Again,

Back in Dec I posted about a rebuilt long block I got from Kragen for a 73 Mustang. It was a 302 block but they put 351W heads on it. After several messages back and forth on this forum I decided it was an ok swap and proceeded.

Car ran ok for about a week then idled rough and would not idle in drive. I retightened all bolts (manifold and carb) and got it to run ok but had to back out the idle adjustment screws 4 turns instead of the initial adjustment of 2 turns. Ran for a day or two and acted up again. Replaced the EGR valve, rechecked all hoses by disconnecting and capping all ports from the vacuum tree. Vacuum lines check out ok (including transmission modulator valve). Ran for 1 day and again will not idle. Restrict the air flow by placing my hand over the air horn on the carb and it runs great.

So, I'm about to pull the intake manifold and wonder if anybody has any other suggestions?

Also, is there something special I should know about the 302intake/351W headcombination as it pertains to the intake manifold sealing? A friend suggests I replace the 73 intake with an older one that does not have an EGR. Any thoughts on that swap?

Thanks in Advance,
Bob Schoner

hellas85stang

geat a vacume gauge there easy to learn to check with and reliable..i remember last year lol i had a carb that when i put breather on ir ran better but ruff,then i found out the power brake outlet in back of carb was open and not pluged..a full 3/8 hole was open..lol pluged it and ran like a champ

90GTDan

What kind of carb set up do you have?

rschoner

Hi,
The carb is the stock Ford 2 bbl (2100 series?). It's a Calif car so there is a spacer/adapter for an EGR valve between the carb and the manifold. EGR valve was replaced. I have pulled the carb looking for cracks etc. and it looks ok.

Bob Schoner