94 G STANG

Yep, i think its time guys i started putting toghether that 351w to go in my 94 gt
conv 5 speed. I've read the articles on how to for a fox and it is very helpful. I have a few questions though...What year is best351 to use,and wherecan I order the necessary parts for my 94, because im sure fox style brackets are different.would the typhoon intake be sufficientas far as the intake goes...??
how big of a tbwould be suitable for this application ... anyideas guys?

vristang

Actually the brackets for A/C and P/S originally were used on the 95 Cobra R 351w.
You can use the same brackets, no problem.

I think the hood clearance is slightly lower for the sn95 cars, but I'm not sure on that.


Not many folks have given me any feed back on the sn95 351w swap.
If you have anything I would appreciate the info...


The 'best' block will depend on you...
do you want a roller block?

Check this for everything I have found on the 351w block differences...
http://www.freewebs.com/vristang/fox351wswapfaq.htm


jason

94 G STANG

jason what are the pros and cons, from what ive heard roller blocks off of a 94 up or so 5.8 truck or bronco is ideal... is this true and why?

vristang

The roller blocks will be slightly weaker, but most feel the difference is pretty small.
The primary difference is the thickness of the main webs. The older (pre 75) blocks are slightly thicker.

Obviously, the roller blocks will accept the stock 302 hyd roller lifters.

non roller (pre 92 or so) blocks will not accept factory 302 hyd roller lifters with a standard (factory or aftermarket) cam grind.
The 302 roller lifters can be used, but a reduced base circle cam is required.
If you want to run a standard 302 lobe, you can still get 'conversion' lifters.

I have run the reduced base circle cam, and did have several problems with the drivetrain. I can't say if these problems were due to the reduced base circle cam or not.

I have purchased the conversion 'tie bar' lifters for my current rebuild. This will allow me the ability to select any standard cam design for the 302; and there are MANY to choose from.

jason



You have probably already seen this posted here, but I will through it up again anyway.




Updated 12-26-06
http://www.freewebs.com/vristang/fox351wswapfaq.htm[/i]

302 to 351W Swap in a Fox Body Mustang

VRISTANG[/i]

Note:[/i][/b]
This FAQ was written for converting a T-5 5.0 efi Mustang to a T-5 351w efi Mustang. The conversion will be slightly different if starting with a 2.3l or carbureted Mustang OR converting to a carbureted 351w. Converting transmissions is beyond the scope of this document.[/i][/b]

Background Info-
The major disadvantage of the 302 is its lack of strength at high power levels. Most will agree that at ~500hp the factory 302 block will try to split in half. For many the solution to this is an aftermarket 302 block, which can be expensive.
Another alternative is to swap in a 351w block. The 351w is supported by the aftermarket nearly as well as the 302, but can handle much more power than the 302. Some common safe power numbers given for the 351w are usually in the 600-700hp range. There are 2 basic production blocks available; the 69-70 blocks had a deck height of 9.480�, and the 71 up blocks had a deck height of 9.503.� This is compared to the 302 deck height of 8.200�.

351w Casting Numbers
The casting numbers are on the passenger side near the starter location. You will have to turn the block upside down, or use a mirror to see them.

The year will be designated by the first 2 digits of the casting number.
The first digit is the decade and will be a letter. C=1960's, D=1970's, E=1980's, and so on. The second digit will be a number andspecifies the year of the decade. Some examples follow:
D1=1971
E9=1989
F4=1994

For more info on how to identify various Ford engine blocks check out the following link…
http://www.fordification.com/engineID.htm


Getting Into the Nitty-Gritty

The 351w Engine Block -
69-70[/b] - High Nickel content and thicker main webs (These are the only Production Ford 9.480" Deck Height 351w blocks)
71-74[/b] - Reduced Nickel content thinner main webs (71-up had 9.503" Deck Height)
75-91[/b] - Reduced main web thickness
92-On[/b] -Lifter Bores were lengthened to accept roller lifters

There were some 351w Mexican blocks as well. The early versions of which are desirable due to their beefier castings and higher nickel contents. A Mexican block can be identified by the useless looking ***** cast into the block on either side of the timing cover, and an “Hencho en Mexico� cast into the lifter valley. Mexican blocks were supposedly used on some US vehicles, but they are a fairly rare find.

Camshaft and Lifters-
The specs of the cam will depend mostly on what your goals are for the motor. Cam spec selection is way beyond the scope of this FAQ. What you want to watch out for is selecting the correct base circle for the lifter combination and using the stock 302 HO firing order (since you are most likely reusing the stock 302computer).

69-91 351w blocks -
Roller Lifter Option 1) Standard Base Circle Cam / Aftermarket Linked Bar Hydraulic Roller Lifters
Roller Lifter Option 2) Small Base Circle Cam / 302 HO Roller Lifters

92 & Later 351w blocks -
The Standard Base Circle Cam can be used with 302 HO Roller Lifters.
A Small Base Circle Cam is not needed in these blocks.
(The 92 and later "roller" blocks will have a F4TE casted into the block near the starter)

If using solid lifters (either flat tappet or roller) then a standard base circle cam can be used on any year 351w block.

If in doubt,ask the company you plan on purchasing the cam from (or better yet a reputable engine builder) what would be appropriate for your application. They will need to know what year the block is and what lifters you plan on running. Additionally it may be helpful to have your rocker ratio available, and what piston you will be using if not stock.
NOTE: Small Base Circle Camsare known to be less than ideal, as they are weaker. There are not as many cam profiles available fortheSmall Base Circle Cams, so yourOffthe Shelf Cam selection will be severely limited. If possible, it is recommended to avoid the Small Base Circle Cams.

Firing Orders-
Early 289 & 3021-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
302HO &351w 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 (this is all 83-93 Mustangs, and all 5.0 Explorers)

Pushrods-
Again, there are far too many options available to cover here. Check with the cam manufacturer on what length pushrod you will need. Or even better, you can use a pushrod length checker and measure them yourself.

Roller Lifters-
The stock 302 lifters can be swapped over to the 351w(see the cam discussion above)with a little machining/grinding and a reduced base circle cam.
First the spider will require 2 holes to be drilled in the main valley. These holes will be drilled over the cam bearings, so great care should be taken not to damage the camshaft or bearings. Risk can be minimized by removing the camshaft, and drilling the holes before the cam bearings are installed. Some grindingmay need to be done to allow the factory 302 dogbones to sit flush on the 351w block as well. A Dremel is adequate to get the job done. Be patient and work slow; it is easier to remove material than put it back. Of course it would be best to do this work before having the block cleaned and prepped for assembly. Ford Hydraulic Roller lifter (for both the 302 and 351w) part number is M-6500-302.
If all of this does not sound appealing to you then maybe some of the aftermarket roller lifters will be a better option. These tend to be fairly expensive however. Look for lifter pairs that have a link bar, connecting each pair of lifters.

Rocker Arms-
This will depend on the heads you select. All of the same rules that apply to selecting rockers for a 302 still apply to the 351w. Options to consider are Pedestal vs. Stud Mount, Roller vs. Non-Roller, and Brand.

Engine Mounts-
Stock 5.0 mounts will bolt up to the 351w. Aftermarket alternatives include solid mounts and polyurethane mounts. Convertible Engine mounts are rumored to be stronger & shorter. Another alternative is a set of lowering engine mounts

94 G STANG

i just read the other post and i get it...the 351w noob post...SO what do you think of a good cam and intake combo if i keep the stock heads, what hp range would i be in ??

w8less

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...wap/index.html

good info about a 351w swap in a sn95

94 G STANG

actually thats more for a fox but things should be the same i presume,

chath_brick

i dont know much about lifters, are roller lifters really that much better? what are the advantages of using them? will they make a big enough difference where it is worth going through all that hassle just to use them? I'm planning on buildng a stroked 351W (probably to a 408) next winter and i want to have all my sh*t planned out before i startlooking for a block and buying parts.

chath_brick

anybody?

vristang

I am using roller lifter for efficiency and power. The rollers create less frictional losses than flats.

The major advantage though comes in the lobe profile. The ramp rates on a roller lobe can be much greater, which gives more effective lift, sooner in the lobe.

jason