tchamber

I have a 95 GT, with 100k on it, and would like to throw in a cam. I heard that I cant put a nice lumpy cam in with stock heads because of clearance, is that true? If not, what cam should I get, and is it safe on my high-miles Stang?</P>


-Tyrell</P>

horatio102

I've heard that the 1985's have clearance problems with large cams... but this is the first time somebody's said a 1995.
But I'm fairly new to 5.0s so I could be wrong.

I'd get compression and leakdown tests done to see how your engine is doing, but I don't see why you couldn't throw a cam in if it's fine. I went with the F303 and I like it. Nice and lumpy, makes the whole car shake at idle.

linemup

I have a 89 mustang I but a Ford Motorsport b303 cam in my carwith everything else stock.Ran awesome and had a pretty good stutter to it.

horatio102

B303 $163.95
Advertised duration: 284 intake/284 exhaust
Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 224 intake/224 exhaust
Gross valve lift: .480 in. intake/.480 in. exhaust
Lobe separation: 107 degrees intake/117 degrees exhaust
Peak horsepower rpm: 5,100
Peak torque rpm: 3,300
Provides fair idle quality with good low end torque.
Significant top end horsepower above 4,000 rpm.

E303 $163.95
Advertised duration: 282 intake/282 exhaust
Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 220 intake/220 exhaust
Gross valve lift: .498 in. intake/.498 exhaust
Lobe separation: 110 degrees
Peak horsepower rpm: 5,500
Peak torque rpm: 2,500
Good idle
Provides good idle quality with excellent low and mid-range power.
Good horsepower through 6,000 rpm.
Emissions legal with five-speed manual transmission vehicles.
Works well with automatic transmissions.
Great for superchargers

F303 $189.95
Advertised duration: 288 intake/288 exhaust Duration @ .050 in. cam lift: 226 intake/226 exhaust
Gross valve lift: .512 intake/.512 exhaust
Lobe separation: 109 degrees intake/119 degrees exhaust
Peak horsepower rpm: 6,000
Peak torque rpm: 2,800
Fair idle
Provides fair idle quality with excellent mid-range and top-end power.
Five-speed manual transmission recommended.
Great for superchargers.
This cam has more mid-range and top-end power than the E303 with a rougher idle.

X303 $163.95
Advertised duration: 286/286
Duration @ .050 in. cam lift: 224 intake/224 exhaust
Gross valve lift: .542 in. intake/.542 in. exhaust
Lobe separation: 107 degrees intake/117 degrees exhaust
Peak horsepower: 6,200 rpm
Peak torque: 3,500
Fair idle
Provides fair idle with great torque and horsepower up to 6,200 rpm.
Five-speed manual transmission recommended.
May require piston modification for piston-to-valve clearance.

Z303 $205.05
Advertised duration: 290/290
Duration @ 0.050: 228/228 degree
Lift: 0.552 in. intake lift and 0.552 in. exhaust lift
Fair idle
This cam is very good for all around performance, with a big increase in torque and horsepower at all rpm ranges. The result is an engine with considerably more power. Recommended for 5-speed transmissions only.
May require piston modification for piston-to-valve clearance.
Required valve spring pressure: open-340 psi, closed-120psi. May require longer pushrods

horatio102

That's from www.summitracing.com (pieced together from part descriptions)

I'm not going into all of the other options - Crane, Comp, et al.

If you're worried about emissions legality, go with the E303.

vfast

I wouldn't use any of those cams..you need a lil more lift on the exhaust. a dual pattern is the ticket..but with a 100 k on the clock maybe you should start buying all your pieces for your build up on the new engine. that way you can start building one as you drive this one. I would buy all the bolt on stuff first to use on your car now and then you can reuse on the new engine. just a thought<img border="0" src=smileys/smiley16.gif border="0">

tchamber

Thanks for the input, I think I will get a leakdown and compression test and get a cam if it turns out OK. A new engine is so far in the future for me that Im not even saving for it yet, but it sounds like a good idea.

stang574

When selecting a cam you need to look at what your engine needs and wants. On the 95 5.0s the E7TE heads are about as high flowing as the heads off of my 12 horse Briggs and Straton. The stock heads on the intake side flow about 160 cfm from about .375 to .550 lift. Not a huge jump in flow numbers. Same with the exhaust side, it reaches it max flow at about .400 lift (very restrictive). By putting a cam in that has too much lift and to much duration for these heads your gonna end up with a car that might have a cool idle, but its a dog off the line. When we have big lift and duration the engines efficeint operating range gets shifted into the higher rpms. Not only that but with such steep ramp rates on these cams it will cause considerable wear on the stock valve train. If your car is mostly stock put in a cam that dosen't go overboard, like the E or B cams. They don't have huge lifts and have moderate duration. With a lot of miles on your engine its also a good idea to put in some valve springs that have enough pressure and won't coil bind to match the cam. Roller rockers on a stock cam are a good way to start. They will free up some frictional power loss and can give the stock cam some more lift when 1.7 ratios are used.

Buzzstang

<P align=center><FONT face="Courier New, Courier, mono" color=limegreen size=6><U>b303</U></FONT></P>

horatio102

If you can afford it, keep the stock cam and throw heads on. AFR 165. Or Edelbrock Performer (almost as high flowing). Or if you've got the cash get heads and a cam.