nick_thames

Hey guys, Ive had a 306 in a project car for along time. With more money in the equation and tax money coming im wanting to make a 347 stroker out of my project. The car had a.....

Holley 650 (not double pump)
Victor Jr. Intake
AFR 185cc heads
MSD
Very Mild cam
Forged bottom end
Hooker 1 5/8 long tubes
C4 Transmission (needs a serious overhaul)
and the Stock 4cyl rearend

NOW so far within the past day or two ive received a

ProForm 750 Race Carb (its purple....)
Edelbrock SUPER Victor intake
AED throttle cable (Its Red....??? Should i exchange this for a purple billet to match the carb even though the car will be red/black?)
new throttle cable.

Here was the plans for the stroker...
SRP Forged Pistons
Forged Rods, and Scat Forged Crank.
CSI electric Water pump
and a PA comp c4 or either rebuild the current one? Any suggestions or if someone has had trouble/success with any other combo would be appreciated!

wheelliftnpony

mm i like mine alot.. getting ready to put a blower on it and do some **** also with my tax money.. plan to run mid 10's with a blower

nick_thames

ill probably go with the spray, however you dont see many supercharged carb 347 running around! Im using mine for more of a track car so thats why i say spray

w8less

why don't u fix those items.

FullAuto

Don't waste money on a forged crank if you're using a stock block.

BTW, I have a sale going on a few Scar 347 kits.

bouchermb

I'm doing a 347 stroker, with Canfield 195 heads, Camshaft Innovations custom grind comp cam, a Vortech 5 psi SC, Pro M 90 MM MAF, 70 MM TB, 42 lb. inj., TFStreet upper/lower intake, a 255 lph FP, and Vortech t-rex external FPand my engine builder recommended a forged or at the very least a cast forged crank. I'd go early model 302 block at the least and get the block girdled. I have pretty much all the other standard mods as well. Headers, 3" mandrel bent custom x-pipe, MSD ignition, suspension mods, gears, pulleys, electric fan, aluminum rad, etc.

The guy whose building the engine said I should be fine up to aboput 650 RWHP. My recommendation is go with top quality parts and do it right the first time.

FullAuto

Cast forged is an oxymoron. It's either cast or it's forged, not both. The T-Rex is a poor choice to run with the 255lph intank pump. The block girdle does not add any strength to the block. If you're using a stock block, I'd find another builder.

nick_thames

That was my intentions. The C4 and Stock Rearend are going to be changed. I have an 8.8 with disc brakes that i will put in it. The C4 is the real pain. it just doesnt feel firm.

The reason im changing everything is that i dont trust what somebody else already had unless i saw them build it or know who is doing it. I have two 302 blocks. Trust me, I want the Forged stuff especially if im mostly pulling this car to the track for racing. It might go on the street 3-4 times just to run to a little store or something.

bouchermb

They do make some sort of crank that's a combo. It's better than a pure cast crank, but not as expensive as forged. I probably got exactly what it's called wrong though. They guy whose building my engine gave me a warranty up to 650 on the early model block, and did say a Mexican block is stronger, and obviously SCAT blocks or others like it are stronger than these, but a hell of a lot more expensive. The early model blocks are thicker than the late model one's though.

The guy who recommended the T-Rex, Isaw run a10.5 with the same fuel deliveryset up, and does testing for companies on optimal for delivery, so I'm comfortable with his recommendation. The engine builder does tons of race engines, so I disagree with you on selecting another builder. He knows his stuff.

ruger311

get yourself a Dart block b4 you even think of building that engine you will wish you did