iac
02-07-2007, 11:13 PM
#11
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Posts: 108
RE: iac
it sounds like a problem i have been having. did your motor surge up and down. i cleaned mine and it didnt really help the problem. but yeah if it controls all that stuff then defenatly get a new one. you could probably find one layin around in someones garage for cheap.
02-07-2007, 11:17 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 329
RE: iac
o nevermind i found pics of it.. what im missing is some sort of plug that should have like 5 lines coming out from it that connect to different parts of the vacuum line. I've been trying to find one somewhere but i cant seem to. maybe a dealer will have one? its on the pass side between the fender and t/b... any ideas what this is and what it does
02-08-2007, 01:17 AM
#14
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Posts: 123
RE: iac
ORIGINAL: 5Liter Import Eater
o nevermind i found pics of it.. what im missing is some sort of plug that should have like 5 lines coming out from it that connect to different parts of the vacuum line. I've been trying to find one somewhere but i cant seem to. maybe a dealer will have one? its on the pass side between the fender and t/b... any ideas what this is and what it does
o nevermind i found pics of it.. what im missing is some sort of plug that should have like 5 lines coming out from it that connect to different parts of the vacuum line. I've been trying to find one somewhere but i cant seem to. maybe a dealer will have one? its on the pass side between the fender and t/b... any ideas what this is and what it does
02-08-2007, 01:40 AM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 760
RE: iac
ORIGINAL: AdderMk2
you do NOT need the IAC... its not something your car is dependent on. I drove around for about 4 months with mine unplugged because it was actuing funny.
The only problems it will cause is, you car will stall out when first started unless you hold the rpm's up slightly(1000rpm or so)
once the car is warm, the IAC closes fully anyway, so its like not having one at all
ORIGINAL: 88canadianstang
Sounds like you fixed the problem and yes you need the iac. Why would you want to diconnect it? It would be worth your time to give the iac a good clean with some throttle body cleaner as well. They frequently act up and need to be cleaned.
Sounds like you fixed the problem and yes you need the iac. Why would you want to diconnect it? It would be worth your time to give the iac a good clean with some throttle body cleaner as well. They frequently act up and need to be cleaned.
The only problems it will cause is, you car will stall out when first started unless you hold the rpm's up slightly(1000rpm or so)
once the car is warm, the IAC closes fully anyway, so its like not having one at all
I don't want to argue with Adder because lets face it - he's pretty stubborn (compliment)
BUT your statement about it closing fully after warmup is completely false. It can cause a lot more problems than crank/no starts or start/stalls too. Otherwise, you are correct in the manner that it CAN be done without. WHY jerry rig like that anyhow? You have better taste and technical knowledge than that
02-08-2007, 05:40 PM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location:
Posts: 213
RE: iac
Yeah what the hell...ford had no reason to put that thing on there anyhow, its just thier to make you spend money when it breaks. Hey and if your MAF goes bad just unplug it too, you dont need itcuz your car will run without that too....lol.
The IDLE SPEED CONTROL, THROTTLE BYPASS AIR VALVE ASSEMBLY, or IDLE AIR CONTROL motor as some call it does more than control your idle speed. The IAC does nt just stay open or shut after the car warms up its constantly cycling. The ECM uses it tovary the amount of air that bypasses the throttle body under many different conditions.It not onlyallows the engine to start easier under extreme conditions and work with the MAF to maintain a steady idle speed. Its also adds air at cruise speeds during deceleration(letting off the gas andcoasting to a stop)the ECM uses the IAC to let more air bypass the now closed throttlebody so the engine doesnt stall while its slowing down. If a light has suddenly gone off in your head and yourthinking hmmmmm thats why my car is occassionally dying at idle and stalling when I let off the gas and slow down. It must be becausewhen I installed my new H/C/I and/or my new MAF and injectors that all of the sudden my engines air requirements have changed and even though my new MAF flows more air and is "calibrated"tofool my "computer" into usingthe bigger injectors it has nothing to do with those other things.Itrequires a custom tune to adjust the IACduty cycle in order for it to work properly again.
The IDLE SPEED CONTROL, THROTTLE BYPASS AIR VALVE ASSEMBLY, or IDLE AIR CONTROL motor as some call it does more than control your idle speed. The IAC does nt just stay open or shut after the car warms up its constantly cycling. The ECM uses it tovary the amount of air that bypasses the throttle body under many different conditions.It not onlyallows the engine to start easier under extreme conditions and work with the MAF to maintain a steady idle speed. Its also adds air at cruise speeds during deceleration(letting off the gas andcoasting to a stop)the ECM uses the IAC to let more air bypass the now closed throttlebody so the engine doesnt stall while its slowing down. If a light has suddenly gone off in your head and yourthinking hmmmmm thats why my car is occassionally dying at idle and stalling when I let off the gas and slow down. It must be becausewhen I installed my new H/C/I and/or my new MAF and injectors that all of the sudden my engines air requirements have changed and even though my new MAF flows more air and is "calibrated"tofool my "computer" into usingthe bigger injectors it has nothing to do with those other things.Itrequires a custom tune to adjust the IACduty cycle in order for it to work properly again.
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