head stud question
02-09-2007, 03:28 AM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,467
head stud question
wow, this is going to sound like a cliche post. but anyway.
I thought i read somehwere about not being able to use head studs with gt40 heads? What could I have possibly been reading?
Also, how do I know which model of the GT40's to look for (like the x's or the p's?)
I thought i read somehwere about not being able to use head studs with gt40 heads? What could I have possibly been reading?
Also, how do I know which model of the GT40's to look for (like the x's or the p's?)
02-09-2007, 01:26 PM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,897
RE: head stud question
Get yourself some ARP bolts and be done with it. Much easier/better. The GT40's or GT40X's are what you want. GT40P's have less potential and also require a different header. 40's are going to be the easiest to find, they'll be on a pre 1997.5 (date check?) Explorer, and/or Ebay. 40X's are aluminum. They're nice, but for the price I'd go with AFR's or Trick Flow's.
02-09-2007, 06:27 PM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 835
RE: head stud question
I just used a set of head studs on a buddy's car with gt-40's no issues either. The studs are suppose to be better for not allowing the head to lift under high cylinder pressures. The only issue I seen was the brake booster makes it a pain with the studs installed. That is easy to overcome though. The studs have allen heads so they can be installed after placing the head on the block. In my opion the studs are better chioce to use.
02-09-2007, 07:15 PM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,834
RE: head stud question
Definitely some mis-information here....
First off, bolts are never better than studs. Easier, maybe. I never had much problem swapping my heads w/ ARP studs. When you torque down a bolt you are twisting the entire shaft of the bolt since the head is attached. Studs are stronger and can be torqued much more accurately b/c the nut and washer are torqued independently of the shaft (stud), which is already tightened down. Almost ALL head bolts are designed for one-time use b/c the strength/accuracy can't be guaranteed after they've been used due to the twisting of the shaft.
Second, there is nothing wrong w/ P heads. Hung Like A Stang, what combo/setup are you planning on running? Stock for stock, P heads will outflow GT40's up to ~.500 lift. The P's do require different headers (FRPP or MAC make P headers or most long tubes work), but the improved plug angle improves combustion (=more power) and the P's also bump compression (58-59cc chambers vs. the GT40's 64cc's). However,a little port work on the GT40's (especially to remove the thermactor bumps on the exh ports) will yeild pretty significant gains and make them outflow the P's (also due to larger exh valve). Like mentioned above, TW's or AFR's will yeild more flow/power than the aluminum X's, but it's all relative to your goals and budget.
First off, bolts are never better than studs. Easier, maybe. I never had much problem swapping my heads w/ ARP studs. When you torque down a bolt you are twisting the entire shaft of the bolt since the head is attached. Studs are stronger and can be torqued much more accurately b/c the nut and washer are torqued independently of the shaft (stud), which is already tightened down. Almost ALL head bolts are designed for one-time use b/c the strength/accuracy can't be guaranteed after they've been used due to the twisting of the shaft.
Second, there is nothing wrong w/ P heads. Hung Like A Stang, what combo/setup are you planning on running? Stock for stock, P heads will outflow GT40's up to ~.500 lift. The P's do require different headers (FRPP or MAC make P headers or most long tubes work), but the improved plug angle improves combustion (=more power) and the P's also bump compression (58-59cc chambers vs. the GT40's 64cc's). However,a little port work on the GT40's (especially to remove the thermactor bumps on the exh ports) will yeild pretty significant gains and make them outflow the P's (also due to larger exh valve). Like mentioned above, TW's or AFR's will yeild more flow/power than the aluminum X's, but it's all relative to your goals and budget.
02-09-2007, 07:25 PM
#8
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,467
RE: head stud question
Well, I don't want to spend a fortune on heads because i'm going to run a twin turbo setup. So I just want some decent flowing heads for crusing and off the line but since I wont be N/A the heads aren't all of my power, and I know ported GT40's can flow like tfs heads. I'm probably going with the edelbrock rpm intake and at least have that gasket matched.
also, if I have a crane cams camshaft with similar specs to the "e" (so around a .500 lift) how will I know what springs to use? and should i stick with 1.6 roller rockers as opposed to 1.7:1
thanks for the info.
also, if I have a crane cams camshaft with similar specs to the "e" (so around a .500 lift) how will I know what springs to use? and should i stick with 1.6 roller rockers as opposed to 1.7:1
thanks for the info.
02-09-2007, 07:41 PM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,834
RE: head stud question
ORIGINAL: Hung Like a Stang
Well, I don't want to spend a fortune on heads because i'm going to run a twin turbo setup. So I just want some decent flowing heads for crusing and off the line but since I wont be N/A the heads aren't all of my power, and I know ported GT40's can flow like tfs heads. I'm probably going with the edelbrock rpm intake and at least have that gasket matched.
also, if I have a crane cams camshaft with similar specs to the "e" (so around a .500 lift) how will I know what springs to use? and should i stick with 1.6 roller rockers as opposed to 1.7:1
thanks for the info.
Well, I don't want to spend a fortune on heads because i'm going to run a twin turbo setup. So I just want some decent flowing heads for crusing and off the line but since I wont be N/A the heads aren't all of my power, and I know ported GT40's can flow like tfs heads. I'm probably going with the edelbrock rpm intake and at least have that gasket matched.
also, if I have a crane cams camshaft with similar specs to the "e" (so around a .500 lift) how will I know what springs to use? and should i stick with 1.6 roller rockers as opposed to 1.7:1
thanks for the info.
Check out Thumper's site. He does GT40's as well and can upgrade the valves to stainless 1.90/1.60's for a good price.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Daddys Girls GTs
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
3
09-14-2015 08:46 PM
