samseed101

The smoke you were seeing would be normal. it's crankcase gasses that would normally get recirculated into your upper intake. But now it vents into the atmosphere. I ended up running a tube under the car as well to vent it away.

To be honest, I've never actually read my boost gauge after disconnecting the brake booster line. I usually only disconnect it briefly to add seafoam. It is worth checking though. It could be the grommet or the booster itself.

Try this as a quick free test. First disconnect the brake booster line with the engine running. You should feel quite a bit of suction from teh tube. Next just plug the tube with your thumb and check your vacuum reading. If it stays the same, then you know the problem is elsewhere. If it climbs to a normal level, then there is something wrong with something in that area (again, could be as simple as a gromemt or line, or as difficult as the booster itself.) If that doesn't do anything, try the carb cleaner trick I mentioned earlier.

What year is your car? Certain year are VERY picky with camshafts and needs a godo tune. Sometimes the lobe separation angle is too narrow and there simply isn't enough vacuum at idle. Did you get it tuned after installing the cam or was the camshaft done at the same time the S/C was done? Was it running fine with that cam in it before?

If it was never tuned after installing the cam and if it started doing this after the cam, that may be the culprit. But that's nothinga tune shouldn't be able to fix, unless it's too extreme.

Don't worry about all the questions. I'd be upset myself!

droptop306

No I had the motor built to spec and then added the supercharger, eliminated the egr pump, and installed the 4 lug conversion. the vacuum pressure was like this from the get go of fire up. Even eliminating the pcv did nothing but clean out the smoke from the tailpipes. I am going to have it tuned but am going to change the upper and lower intake to the Holley systemax II and run fuel rails and lines. I am not racing this car just setting it up for show. I then was going to have it tuned. Do you think the electric vacuum will help or a waste of money

droptop306

Hey Samseed i am about to run out of work, if you come up with any other ideas please feel free to email me at droptop306@hotmail.com. thanks for all the advise.

samseed101

I imagine a vacuum pump would help some, but if there really is a leak then it's not really solving the problem, it's just covering it up. A vacuum leak in your situation causes a few problems. First, it can make it idle and run rough. Second, ti's intorducing unmetered air into the system, which can cause you to run lean and that is not good, lol.

Also, if you have a vacuum leak, then when you hit WOT and go from vacuum to boost, then that vacuum leak becones a boost leak and you won't be getting as much boost as you should be getting.

For starters, check the brake booster using the method mentioned above, then use carb spray to check the other areas. If there really is no leak and if it is due to the new camshaft, then get a good tune and see if they can work it out. It's always a good idea to get a tune after doing any major work like that. Otherwise you risk problems... best case scenario, you lose HP and it runs rough. Worst case, your engine goes boom.

droptop306

Went home last night and did what you said, all vacuum lines are good. I have no clue.

Joel5.0

With a Stg1 cam, vacuum should be ≥ 13" Hg. ......something is wrong there.....things to check:

1. Ignition Timing
2. Valve train calibration (too much lifters preload)
3. Remove and plug brake booster hose, plug it, and check engine vacuum @idle.
4. Check engine cylinder compression pressure.

A vacuum pump will be a bandaid again, that setup shouldn't have that low of a vacuum.....unless something is not installed/calibrated right.

droptop306

I have the timing set at 10 degrees. I am at a loss, I paid a performance shop to install this and now dont know what to do

samseed101

In all honesty, if you paid them to install this and it's not working properly, then it sounds like they owe you some work. Maybe they screwed up the installation of the camshaft...always a possibility.

But maybe there's nothing wrong with the installation. It's really REALLY, I mean EXTREMELY important to have the vehicle tuned after major modifications. Especially if it involves changing the camshaft. I would never expect my car to run right at all after major modifications without first tuning it.

Think of it in comptuer terms... Lets say you have a decent computer at home but you want to play a new game so you go out and buy a new $300 video card. Now this thing is great and can display flawless graphics, etc. So you get home, take out the old card, plug in the new $300 card and turn on your computer. But the screen looks like ****. The resolution is stuck at 640 X 480 and you only have 16 colors. It loooks worse than your original card!

Well you can't usually just drop a video card in the computer and expect it to work. You have to install the drivers so the rest of the computer knows what to do with it. Just like you cant usually just drop a new camshaft in without getting it tuned.

samseed101

What year is your car by the way? If it's a 94 or a 95, then the tune is even more important! Those things hate mods.

droptop306

Mine is a 92 mustang lx convertible. Here are the specs of the motor:

302 Ford Competition Small Block

Trick Flow Aluminum Cylinder Heads
[/align]

q Hyd Roller 1.470 springs
q Machined Keepers
q Harden Guide plates were installed 7/16
q 2.020 Intake Valves
q 1.600 Ex. Valves
q Tall Large Radius Harden 3/8 Studs installed
q Full Roller Rockers 1:6 Ratio were used
q Competition Valve Job[/align]


302 Ford Race Ready Engine Block[/align]

q A 302 Roller Block Was Used
q Block was square decked
q Block was square bored and honed with honing plates
q Block has oil restrictors installed for the mains and rods
q Block was magnafluxed and pressure tested
q Engine was trial assembled[/align]

Competition 302 Ford Parts List Break Down[/align]

q A Roller TFS-2000 Camshaft
q Push rods
q Mell Oil Pump
q Hyd. Roller Lifters
q Hyper. Pistons .030 (coated)
q File fit Chrome Moly Rings
q Cast Crank 10/10
q Rod and Main Bearings 10/10 FM
q Dual Roller Timing Chain
q Engine was a 50 or 28oz balance
q Crank was magnafluxed
q A Set of Connecting Rods
q Complete Gasket Set
q Max timing of 36 degrees[/align]