New cam, heads, and intake w/ problems
02-28-2007, 02:29 AM
#16
RE: New cam, heads, and intake w/ problems
When you have hydraulic lifters, there should be 0 lash between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm. Tighten down the rocker while spinning the pushrod, when the pushrod stops spinning, turn an extra 1/4 turn and your good. You need to do this when the valves are closed. Spin the engine till the exhaust valve starts to open, this means your intake valve is all the way closed. Do the same for the exhaust valve. Do this on all cyclinders.
02-28-2007, 04:58 AM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 3,311
RE: New cam, heads, and intake w/ problems
ORIGINAL: redmustang83596
When you have hydraulic lifters, there should be 0 lash between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm. Tighten down the rocker while spinning the pushrod, when the pushrod stops spinning, turn an extra 1/4 turn and your good. You need to do this when the valves are closed. Spin the engine till the exhaust valve starts to open, this means your intake valve is all the way closed. Do the same for the exhaust valve. Do this on all cyclinders.
When you have hydraulic lifters, there should be 0 lash between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm. Tighten down the rocker while spinning the pushrod, when the pushrod stops spinning, turn an extra 1/4 turn and your good. You need to do this when the valves are closed. Spin the engine till the exhaust valve starts to open, this means your intake valve is all the way closed. Do the same for the exhaust valve. Do this on all cyclinders.
02-28-2007, 05:21 AM
#18
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,834
RE: New cam, heads, and intake w/ problems
ORIGINAL: redmustang83596
When you have hydraulic lifters, there should be 0 lash between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm. Tighten down the rocker while spinning the pushrod, when the pushrod stops spinning, turn an extra 1/4 turn and your good. You need to do this when the valves are closed. Spin the engine till the exhaust valve starts to open, this means your intake valve is all the way closed. Do the same for the exhaust valve. Do this on all cyclinders.
When you have hydraulic lifters, there should be 0 lash between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm. Tighten down the rocker while spinning the pushrod, when the pushrod stops spinning, turn an extra 1/4 turn and your good. You need to do this when the valves are closed. Spin the engine till the exhaust valve starts to open, this means your intake valve is all the way closed. Do the same for the exhaust valve. Do this on all cyclinders.
02-28-2007, 01:39 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 25
RE: New cam, heads, and intake w/ problems
ORIGINAL: redmustang83596
When you have hydraulic lifters, there should be 0 lash between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm. Tighten down the rocker while spinning the pushrod, when the pushrod stops spinning, turn an extra 1/4 turn and your good. You need to do this when the valves are closed. Spin the engine till the exhaust valve starts to open, this means your intake valve is all the way closed. Do the same for the exhaust valve. Do this on all cyclinders.
When you have hydraulic lifters, there should be 0 lash between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm. Tighten down the rocker while spinning the pushrod, when the pushrod stops spinning, turn an extra 1/4 turn and your good. You need to do this when the valves are closed. Spin the engine till the exhaust valve starts to open, this means your intake valve is all the way closed. Do the same for the exhaust valve. Do this on all cyclinders.
02-28-2007, 10:57 PM
#20
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 25
RE: New cam, heads, and intake w/ problems
Well today i worked on it again, and i put the rockers how the instructions said. Becuase, everytime i messed with them before, the #1 would always fire. And if what i did to the #1 then why wont the others fire. So i guess it must not be the valves.
So i redid the whole timing. Set it to 12 with the spout out. Went to get some pizza at big freds about 2 blocks away. It was still missing, but it would run great above 2500-3000 rpms. But that was only sometimes.
And also i noticed i dont have any powerbrakes when idleing. But if you rev it up a little they come back. Or when the rpms are higher than 1000 or so.
And also i sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake gasket from Lower to upper, and the idle would go up. It went up at everyspot along the intake. So vacumme leak??
Does anyone know what the torque is for a cobra intake?
So i redid the whole timing. Set it to 12 with the spout out. Went to get some pizza at big freds about 2 blocks away. It was still missing, but it would run great above 2500-3000 rpms. But that was only sometimes.
And also i noticed i dont have any powerbrakes when idleing. But if you rev it up a little they come back. Or when the rpms are higher than 1000 or so.
And also i sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake gasket from Lower to upper, and the idle would go up. It went up at everyspot along the intake. So vacumme leak??
Does anyone know what the torque is for a cobra intake?