Dubs

Thank you for your kind words. Seriously I wish I had more time on my hands to. I guess thats my main reason also. I know what parts are needed but putting it together is what gets me. How did you do yours?

Li0nHart

k...we can all log off now...no need for new posts cause everything that could ever need to be discussed has been mentioned by now. eveyone just do searches from now on.....

93whitelx

if you mess with the rocker arm ratio make sure you get the right length push rods too

Dubs

Thanks. Thats what Im trying to figure out the correct length of the push rod

AdderMk2

Thats kinda the idea behind the search function... its there to make your noob life miserable

Dubs

It's tough being a nood! But hey we all go through it right.

AdderMk2

I never had any "noob" problems when I joined this site...

then again, I actually READ the forum... and I SEARCH things... and GOOGLE is your friend

Dubs

Ya your right. Maybe I'm just a noob all around. I hear your the guy that knows about tires sizes and stuff. I'll be hitting you up for those types of questions, is that ok?

Chitown racer

The best way to figure out what pushrod length you need is to use an adjustable pushrod made for that very purpose. Once you have it the the right length than have it measured by someone with the right equipment ( usually your local machine shop) and order 16 of them. With that said, the variablessummit was talking about are deck height, gasket thickness, and cylinder heads deck thickness. If you havent had your block decked, your heads milled, and your using a head gasket thats the same thickness as stock (.039-.040) then your just compensating for the increased deck thickness thats common toaftermarket heads like your Trick Flows.In cases like these most of the timeyou canjust order a set of pushrodsthat are.080 to .100 longer than stock and you'll be good. I'm not going to say that it will be so in your case, but speaking from the experience it is usually the case. It couldnt hurt to give it a shot worst case senerio is you have to exchange them for the right size.

LTnone

Honestly I just kinda went at it with a shop manual and a prayer. There's a great writeup on directions step by step (below), it was helpful for tearing stuff down but I was able to stop using it and just figure it out on my own. A bit of common sense goes a long way in the engine building world. However, it also has its limits- be sure to cross reference EVERYTHING you do with a shop manual. I would have missed a million small things, like greasing the ends of the pushrods, putting RTV on certain things, or one of a million others. Also, be sure to put every bolt you remove in cardboard and label what it is. If you're not sure if you'll remember how something came apart/goes back together, take a picutre of it, maybe make a note. You'll do fine if you just make sure you're doing what you're supposed to. Here's that article, the one thing about this is on step #24 it doesn't say anything about taking the lifters out, but YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE LIFTERS BEFORE TAKING OUT THE CAM! If not they will make close acquaintences with your oilpan. Also, replace the lifters. Just do it. If you absolutely must keep the stock ones though, make a note of exactly where each lifter went, and also which direction it was pointed (so the cam rolls the same direction on it). Nevermind which end went up and which went down PM me if you have any questions. Good luck!

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/techa...intakeswap.pdf