Pistons and Rebuilding and questions
#1
Pistons and Rebuilding and questions
Hey,
So I'm putting a bunch of new parts in my car and rebuilding the engine in the process, but I'm trying to do it on a budget. Now, I decided that I'll be taking the block to a machine shop to have it honed, but I've been hearing that maybe I should bore it out instead. The problem with that is I would have to buy new pistons, which aren't cheap.
So here's the deal, the engine has 174k miles on it, and my goal is to be running mild boost (6~8psi probably), so would it be dumb to keep the stock pistons in the first place? I'm assuming the crank and rods will be fine (getting new rod bearings though), am I right? I know the limits of the stock block as well, so I'm not building a 10 second car or anything. If I do end up getting new pistons I'll probably go dished to lower the compression (I have GT-40p heads, which aren't exactly ideal, but whatever). I've noticed hypereutectic pistons are cheap, but are they any good? What pistons would you recommend?
Also, while I have it at then machine shop, anything else I should have them do?
Thanks
So I'm putting a bunch of new parts in my car and rebuilding the engine in the process, but I'm trying to do it on a budget. Now, I decided that I'll be taking the block to a machine shop to have it honed, but I've been hearing that maybe I should bore it out instead. The problem with that is I would have to buy new pistons, which aren't cheap.
So here's the deal, the engine has 174k miles on it, and my goal is to be running mild boost (6~8psi probably), so would it be dumb to keep the stock pistons in the first place? I'm assuming the crank and rods will be fine (getting new rod bearings though), am I right? I know the limits of the stock block as well, so I'm not building a 10 second car or anything. If I do end up getting new pistons I'll probably go dished to lower the compression (I have GT-40p heads, which aren't exactly ideal, but whatever). I've noticed hypereutectic pistons are cheap, but are they any good? What pistons would you recommend?
Also, while I have it at then machine shop, anything else I should have them do?
Thanks
#2
RE: Pistons and Rebuilding and questions
whoa whoa slow down skippy
if you bore it your gonna get more efficiency from the boost, and hyp. pistons are crappy, esp. for boost since boost puts alot of load on ur car.
save your money and build it right.
if you bore it your gonna get more efficiency from the boost, and hyp. pistons are crappy, esp. for boost since boost puts alot of load on ur car.
save your money and build it right.
#3
RE: Pistons and Rebuilding and questions
forged dished pistons if your going to run boost, and i would get better rods, even if you stuck with the stock crank. at the very LEAST get arp 5/16 waveloc rod bolts if your gonna use the stock rods.
get the pistons/rods/crank balanced!!!!!!!!!!! also, dont buy 20.00 cheap *** cast rings, spend a little more and grab something like speedpro plasma molys or somethin
get the pistons/rods/crank balanced!!!!!!!!!!! also, dont buy 20.00 cheap *** cast rings, spend a little more and grab something like speedpro plasma molys or somethin
#5
RE: Pistons and Rebuilding and questions
Hmm, that's about what I expected. So it's a no on the hyp. pistons, that's fine, while I'm trying to do this relatively cheap, it's not exaclty a zero budget project either. I'd rather not be kicking myself later for doing something stupid now. I was probably going to get some mid-range rings, because I do plan on running boost, that didn't seem like a smart place to go cheap. So forged pistons then, any brands I should stay away from? I appreciate the help guys.
#6
RE: Pistons and Rebuilding and questions
ORIGINAL: my77stang
forged dished pistons if your going to run boost, and i would get better rods, even if you stuck with the stock crank. at the very LEAST get arp 5/16 waveloc rod bolts if your gonna use the stock rods.
get the pistons/rods/crank balanced!!!!!!!!!!! also, dont buy 20.00 cheap *** cast rings, spend a little more and grab something like speedpro plasma molys or somethin
forged dished pistons if your going to run boost, and i would get better rods, even if you stuck with the stock crank. at the very LEAST get arp 5/16 waveloc rod bolts if your gonna use the stock rods.
get the pistons/rods/crank balanced!!!!!!!!!!! also, dont buy 20.00 cheap *** cast rings, spend a little more and grab something like speedpro plasma molys or somethin
#7
RE: Pistons and Rebuilding and questions
FEM-MHP173-300
Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kits
Engine Rebuild, Forged Flat, 4.030 in. Bore, Standard Rod, Standard Main, Ford, 302, Kit
4/12/07
$529.95this is what i might pick up decent deal i think
#8
RE: Pistons and Rebuilding and questions
thats a pretty good kit, good pistons and rings. i'd up the oil pump though, and you'll need a timing chain. i used their CH series bearings too, they are better than the ones most of you guys are probably using
see, they look burnt outta the box, but dont let that fool you....
see, they look burnt outta the box, but dont let that fool you....
Developed in NASCAR and Pro Stock competition.
If you're building a high-level competition engine, you'll definitely want to check out Federal Mogul CH-Series rod bearings. They were developed in the trenches in NASCAR and Pro Stock competition, so you know they're tough. They're built on premium 1020AK steel backings, and overlaid with Federal Mogul's super-duty H-14 alloy. That's covered with a nickel barrier, followed by a thin lead-tin-copper overplate. However, unlike other performance bearings, there is no flash tin layer on top of that. That's because Federal Mogul's engineers have determined that such a layer can actually move around under high performance conditions--sometimes resulting in undesirable consequences.
If you're building a high-level competition engine, you'll definitely want to check out Federal Mogul CH-Series rod bearings. They were developed in the trenches in NASCAR and Pro Stock competition, so you know they're tough. They're built on premium 1020AK steel backings, and overlaid with Federal Mogul's super-duty H-14 alloy. That's covered with a nickel barrier, followed by a thin lead-tin-copper overplate. However, unlike other performance bearings, there is no flash tin layer on top of that. That's because Federal Mogul's engineers have determined that such a layer can actually move around under high performance conditions--sometimes resulting in undesirable consequences.
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