QatarStang

Don't go larger than 4.30s if you plan on doing any street driving. Any steeper and second gear will be almost as worthless as first.

92GreyGT

Are you going to use a late model block? If so with that much rpm the block isn't going to last long. With a main girdle and a lifter valley girdle I'd try to stay under 7000. Rpm and big horsepower power adders are late model block killers. Other than that the combo sounds very good. What transmission are you going with? Any power adders? Depending on your tire size I'd say 4.30 or 4.56 if you stay N/A.

samseed101

I hate to be the guy to rain on the parade, but I don't see that hitting in the 10's N/A with the given list of mods. It's a VERY nice setup, but still needs some power to get to 10s.

92GreyGT

If you haven't already gotten the rotating assembly when you order it tell whoever you want some compression. That will help. In a lite car, with real good traction, and a good driverI don't think 10s are out of the question.

88BlueGT

What trans are you using? Are you going auto or 5spd?

ZachW04Stang

Are you going to be running pump gas? Might get a little hard with a 347 that will spin 8k rpm. Not saying its not possible theres going to have to be a really mild tune to keep it from detonating. If your going with race gas why not pop some 13:1 pistons in. Also with those rpm you could use more gear, 4:30 or 4:56s. The new parker intakes are also supposed to out flow the victor jr.

For the suspension I would look into some adjustable shocks and springs. While 50/50's and 90/10's are the "standard" you car might need to be a little stiff or loose. Adjustables will also allow you to adjust one side stiffer then the other based on weight transfer. With the k member I would look into upr because it will save you a couple more pounds off the front end and only cost about $30 more shipped. I'd take the car to a chassis shop and have them redo the torque boxes, install through the floor subframes and install a cage.

w8less

TKO600

and yes it will be pump gas friendly and no power adder all n/a. i was told my set up should be around 420-450 to the wheels.

also samseed there are several cars n/a in the 10 explore outside of mustang forums its a big internet.
also when i say 10's i would be happy with a 10.9

zach i think i will check into that adjustable part. i have also been looking into the cage situation also. i was looking at the MM 6pt cage with the swing out doors. also with the subframe i was also looking at wolfecraft racing through the floor subframe sicne everything would have to come out of the car for the age anyways.

also i think tens are very feasible with a car that should way around 2700lbs and around 420-450rwhp

FullAuto

3000lb raceweight, 450rwhp = 10.96 @ 124.33mph on the ET calculator I usually use. With a solid roller, I think 450rwhp is possible. I guess it will just depend who's designing it.

You should have no problems getting an '86 coupe with a carb below 3000lb race weight. My 9sec coupe weighs 2700-2725lb without me in it and right at 2900 with me. It's a Windsor and still has the stock k-member.

Work with the cam designer *cough*JayAllen*cough* to choose the gear based on the cam operating range, tire size and projected ET.

w8less

thats who i was going to use FullAuto. i am just trying to plan my moves out so i can get the acr going in some type of direction because right now its just sitting under some car covers

w8less

what is that suppose to mean?