stroking a 302
03-29-2007, 10:31 AM
#11
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Citrus County, FL
Posts: 8,007
RE: stroking a 302
just an FYI, when you stroke a motor the crank's stroke becomes longer, and to keep the piston from sticking out of the block the wrist pin location is moved closer to the top of the piston...... hence, you will NEED pistons for whatever size stroker application your wanting to build. plus, if you dont buy stuff in a kit you need to make sure its balanced. brand "X" pistons may weigh considerably more or less than brand "Y" pistons.
and yeah, you'll NEED to bore it. when your doing a stock 302 re-ring / bearing job you can get away with not boring if things arent too bad but when you change the crank/rods/pistons the top ring is not going to be stopping before that wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. what happens when your top piston ring smashes into that ridge? your rings go breaky breaky.
and yeah, you'll NEED to bore it. when your doing a stock 302 re-ring / bearing job you can get away with not boring if things arent too bad but when you change the crank/rods/pistons the top ring is not going to be stopping before that wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. what happens when your top piston ring smashes into that ridge? your rings go breaky breaky.
03-29-2007, 11:26 AM
#12
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,124
RE: stroking a 302
with 170k u better bore that stang no reason not to like said above im sure it has ring groves and god knowns whatelse id spend the extra few $$. or u can go the cheap route and leave it alone and hope and pray.
03-29-2007, 04:12 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,760
RE: stroking a 302
ORIGINAL: my77stang
just an FYI, when you stroke a motor the crank's stroke becomes longer, and to keep the piston from sticking out of the block the wrist pin location is moved closer to the top of the piston...... hence, you will NEED pistons for whatever size stroker application your wanting to build. plus, if you dont buy stuff in a kit you need to make sure its balanced. brand "X" pistons may weigh considerably more or less than brand "Y" pistons.
and yeah, you'll NEED to bore it. when your doing a stock 302 re-ring / bearing job you can get away with not boring if things arent too bad but when you change the crank/rods/pistons the top ring is not going to be stopping before that wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. what happens when your top piston ring smashes into that ridge? your rings go breaky breaky.
just an FYI, when you stroke a motor the crank's stroke becomes longer, and to keep the piston from sticking out of the block the wrist pin location is moved closer to the top of the piston...... hence, you will NEED pistons for whatever size stroker application your wanting to build. plus, if you dont buy stuff in a kit you need to make sure its balanced. brand "X" pistons may weigh considerably more or less than brand "Y" pistons.
and yeah, you'll NEED to bore it. when your doing a stock 302 re-ring / bearing job you can get away with not boring if things arent too bad but when you change the crank/rods/pistons the top ring is not going to be stopping before that wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. what happens when your top piston ring smashes into that ridge? your rings go breaky breaky.
Generally, it's better to buy unbalanced unless you're getting the actual balancer and flexplate in the kit (which is rare). I would much rather balance the kit with the actual parts going on your motor. I can sell kits balanced and will if the cusotmer requests it, but I generally try to discourage it. I feel much better when they take it to their local machine shop and have it done with all their own parts.
94 G Stang - Scat 347 kit, new crank, new 4340 rods w/ ARP cap screws, new Probe flattop pistons, rings and bearings = $750.
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