Scout2232

I asked this question in the Pipes, boost, and juice section but it getting no looks. Plenty of you have boosted cars in here, so you guys should be able to help hopefully. So here it goes:

So I've decided I'm going to ditch my nitrous setup for a s/c. I'm not goingwith anything crazy, I'm thinking about getting a NOVI 1000 or Vortech V-1 SC-Trim. (Which are basically the same, just a different name) I planon running from 5-8lbs of boost when all said and done. Any kind of ideas of the power gains I would make with those numbers, I was dyno'd 290hp and 315tq on a mustang dyno. I am looking to make itanywhere inthe 400 range.

So now my question(s):
I have a 76mm C&L meter, anything wrong with that if I used it, I don't really want to spend the extra money on a new meter, as I just bought this one not too long ago. I just want to know some problems I may run into.

Is there any benefit to having the meter after the s/c vs before the s/c? Seems like it would read better after the s/c.

I was reading through some searches, to see what I would have to do to have the meter after the s/c and BOV always came up. Do you have to use a BOV or can you use a BPV instead?

Whatdo youHAVE to doif you are going to put the meter after the s/c

Thank you.

r.barn

at 6 psi you do not need a BOV
anything past 8psi and you should start thinking of one.

MAF after the s/c lets BOV vent to the atmosphere and is called a "blow thru MAF"
it is very important that at leat 6" staright pipe before MAF on a blow thru for proper reading.

MAF like you have now is draw thru and will require the BOV to vent
back into the intake pipe after the MAF and just before the s/c

expect 80+rwhp with 6-8psi

you'll need 10psi to break 400rwhp
plenty of guys making 420ish rwhp with H/C/I and 10psi on those same s/c's

Scout2232

Okie doke, sounds good. I think I'll try it out without a BOV and as a draw thru. We'll see how that works. What kind of injectors should I be looking at with that do you think? 42's?

PRO50SC

If you have a stock set up(doesn't say what your mods are) @ 9psi completely stock motor mine made just over 300hp. You'll get no where near 400hp on just a blower alone. I would get a blow thru meter, larger injectors, and a secondary in line fuel pmp. Once you start, you won't stop at 5-8psi. It just can't be done.

Did you make 290 on the juice or w/o? What other mods do you have?

Scout2232

Shows the mod list and stuff, no juice. Basically a TFS top end kit on a fresh rebuild.
https://mustangforums.com/m_2940773/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm

Scout2232

What's the benefit of having a blow thru meter? Like I said I don't really want to rebuy a new meter, my C&L works great. I could use the C&L after the s/c as a blow thru right? There's nothing that makes a draw thru and blow thru meterdifferent is there, just the placement?

PRO50SC

Nice, you need to update your sig. I had a 76mm c&l and it wouldn't work all that well once I went to more boost. You may not experience that IF you keep the boost down. I went w/ the pmas 75mm blow thru and that took care of the drivability issues I was having. Try t out and see what happens. Worse comes to worse, you have to get a new meter.

Scout2232

Yea, I'm going to update my sig once I hit the track. Missed my chance last night, and its going to be raining on the weekends sunny on the weekdays, go figure. But yea, already got more views/responses on this in this section in 5 mins than I did at all in the other section for1/2 aday.

42lb injectors, should I get them? I'm on 24'sright now and figure that with the s/c thatwould be a stretch.
Secondary inline pump is required for sure?

PRO50SC

I run 42's. You will def need a tune. I also have a custom chip as well. You won't need an fmu w/ the 42's. I don't run one.

VigCS

Turbo imo:
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...gle+Turbo+Kits

I plan on having that kit some day.