94StinkinLincoln

yeah i can agree w/ that. i wonder if the .5in will even clear the hood and bar? i want to get another hood down the road so i guess i could get the spacer and it would work w/ the new hood to provide better cooling.

94StinkinLincoln

what nitrous kits do you recommend? wet, dry, all of that lol i dont know much about it...just a little. i should have 425-450 at the crank (do yal think thats possible from my sig?) and i dont want to kill the stock block...so max i would want a 100shot correct?

samseed101

Personally, I'm a fan of Nitrous Express setups. Normally I would recommend wet kits but dry kits are usually easier to install and are great as well. If you're just looking to cool the intake air temp a bit you can run a small 25HP shot which is about as safe as you can get when it comes to nitrous. But you can run a 100-shot just as easily. You just have to make sure it's tuned properly and installed correctly.

Most people say that the block will hold 450 - 500 rwhp. A few people say it will go higher and have done it themselves, but I don't trust it that high. Personally I wouldn't venture beyond the 450 rwhp mark.

But like I said, if you just want to cool the air and give your car that little extra kick in the ***, then go with a nice dry 25 shot. But if you want to get a bigger hit, get a 100 HP wet kit with a nice purge kit. That's just my opinion of course.

94StinkinLincoln

bump

94StinkinLincoln

if im gonna go nitrous im gonna do it for the hp

samseed101

In that case, PM FullAuto on here and see about getting a nice Nitrous Express (NX) wet kit. He can hook you up with a great deal. Start out small and slowly work your way up as you get comfortable. If you're worried about splitting the block I wouldn't cross that 450ish RWHP mark. And overall I don't like to go about 100 - 125 shots on our engines with hyper pistons.

Not sure if you knew this or not, but the size of your jets isn't a fixed number that can't be changed. You can start out with a 25 shot if you want. If you decide to jump to 50, 75, whatever down teh road, all you have to do is take out the old jets and put in new ones. They are very tiny and it's EXTREMELY easy to put new ones in. It's as simple as unscrewing a line, removing one jet, putting one in, and screwing the line back. You can probably change jets in under a minute on your first try.

And the other good part... nitrous jets are fairly inexpensive. You can usually get them for $3 - $5 per jet depending on where you look. So you can have setups for all different kinds of gains and it won't break the bank.

94StinkinLincoln

thanks for all the info samseed101!
what is the diffrence between dry and wet...which is safer/better for ur engine. btw i have SRP flat top pistons...
where do u get the bottle filled and how much is it normally to get it filled?

samseed101

A Dry kit only uses a nitrous solenoid and it simply sprays nitrous into the intake. A wet kit uses both a nitrous solenoid and a fule solenoid and it sprays a mixture of nitrous and gasoline into your intake.

With a dry kit, you place the nozzle in front of the MAF so that your sensor can correctly meter the air and tell your fuel injectors how much fuel to spray. In the dry kits, your injectors will spray more fuel to attain the correct mixture.

With a wet kit, you install the flgger nozzle after the MAF. The MAF meters the air as usual, but you spray nitrous and the correct amount of fuel through the solenoids. You know it's the correct amount because you put in the jet nozzle size for the gains that you are looking for. Just find the HP gain you want, find the proper jets, install them, and tune it and you are good to go. There's a little moreto it than that, but that's the simplified version. it's really not that complicated.

With a wet kit, you run the risk of what is called "pooling" in the upper intake. If the airflow isn't strong enough and the mixture settles in the upper intake, you can experience a nitrous backfire which isn't pretty. But if you set it up properly this isn't usually a problem. A Window switch will also help with this, as you can set it so that the nitrous will not spray below 3000 RPM (a safe number.)

With a dry kit, you can lean out the engine too much if it isn't properly metered or if the injctors can't keep up with the demand. But this shouldn't be an issue with your larger injectors, MAF, etc.

You don't have to worry about missing a shift and spraying because you have an Auto.

Some people argue which one is safer. Some say that wet is safer because you'll enver go lean. Others say dry is safer because you don't have to worry about spraying fuel into your intake. I say that both can be safe if installed and used correctly and both can be unsafe if installed and used incorrectly. As far as being better for the engine, in the end there's no real difference (if installed correctly.) In the end, you're going to have a mixture of nitrous and fuel in your cylinders. The only difference is how it gets there. But it all ends up in the same place in the end.

Personally, if I were going to use a 25 - 50 shot, I'd go dry just for simplicity. It's easier to hide a dry kit too if you wanna be sneaky But once I got above those levels, I'd feel more comfortable using a wet kit so I don't have to push my injectors to the limit.

You may want to look into a a window switch. As I said before, that makes it so that the nitrous will not engage until you reach XYZ RPM. That helps prevent pooling. You can also get a fuel pressure safety switch that will not allow the nitrous to spray if your fuel pressure drops to a certain level. That helps prevent you from running lean.

In the end, nitrous can be dangerous. But so can't just about anything you do with a car. Afterall, you are dealing with a machine that uses small controlled explosions to operate. But there are many things you can do to make sure it is as safe as possible. And with the advances in today's technology, it's a LOT safer than it used to be.

As far as your other question... the pricedepends on the area. They sell it per pound. Around here I pay $5.50ish per pound. I have heard others on the board say they pay $6, and still others say they pay $3.50.

94StinkinLincoln

dang $50 to fill it up lol how many runs do you get with that?
and will a 100 dry shot be alright?

this should be a sticky! samseed101 is da man!

samseed101

$50 to fill it up? I have a 15 pound bottle! That's $82.50 for a fillup here Although I'm looking to switch to a 5lb bottle soon. How many runs you get depends on a lot of things. The size of the jets, the bottle pressure, the temperature of the bottle (related to pressure,) How long you spray each run, how much you purge...

if you don't go crazy then it will last awhile. Also, the smaller the jet size the longer it willlast but the less HP you will get(obviously.)

Personally, I don't like going with dry kits that large, but a LOT of people do it and do it safely. Basically, you should figure out your injector duty cycle first. If your duty cycle is getting up there, then you may want to either go with a wet kit or you may want to get larger injectors. That last thing you want is injectors running with a duty cycle in the high 80s and then spray ntrous on top of that... bad things can happen, lol.