my77stang

nope, a thick layer of permatex is all joo need mayun

85BlackDog302

Permatex makes like 200 products, are you talking about lubricant or the stuff the helps loosen bolts?

vtecwho

i have that over priced tech manuel that the dealers use and the bolt sequence is the same as the haynes. i was right when i said that the non flanged bolts are two steps, first to 55lb and then to 72 lbs.

this is what i did/got for my cam swap....
new summit hydrolic lifters
e303
gasket kit from summit, it DOES NOT come with head gaskets. make sure to get head gaskets that will fit what ever you put on as heads.
new smog pump, it was going anyways.
new water pump
all new hoses
lower and upper intake mani. gaskets, again, make sure they are an EXACT fit. summit did not give me the right ones.
harmonic balencer puller, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE WASHER FROM THE BACK. i did not see it in there and i snaped off bolts in my balencer, i had to order another one.
i had a valve job and my gt40s re surfaced and new valve seals=300 bucks. but it has now been done RIGHT, dispite cost.
1.6 RR, my 1.72s were too big.
i would recomend new head bolts. the old ones may tend to stretch.
lots of coolant. i had a BIG problem with air bubbles.
if your putting in a new cam, this is what ford instructions told me to do, "start the car and hold the idle at 1500 rpm so the car does not have to look for an idle." if you use hydrolic roller lifters i dont think there is any break in, i did anyways tho.

85BlackDog302

Is that it? So torque to 55# and wait 5min or just go straight to 72# after 55?