5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

low oil pressure at idle.help..

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Old 12-15-2004, 04:29 PM
  #11  
flamin87
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Default RE: low oil pressure at idle.help..

the car doesnt smoke at all just has a strong smell. the metal in the filter were thin round pieces, and when i took the oil pan out in the front drain plug it had some copper color very fine shavings. i think that my valves need adj. i dont know if that has anything to do with it
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Old 12-16-2004, 06:47 PM
  #12  
88GT40
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Default RE: low oil pressure at idle.help..

you see thats the problem the sending unit can not be ruled out, they are notoiously in accurate, hook yourself up with some magnetic oil drain plugs they will help enormously in disposing of the metal flakes which will contaminate your oil every time you change the oil. secondly you would be much better off with the mechanical guage, i'm sure everyone will concur. just to be sure use the mech guage and see what the pressure is exactly, it should raise along with the rpms.
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Old 12-16-2004, 09:35 PM
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90LX50
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Default RE: low oil pressure at idle.help..


ORIGINAL: flamin87

the car doesnt smoke at all just has a strong smell. the metal in the filter were thin round pieces, and when i took the oil pan out in the front drain plug it had some copper color very fine shavings. i think that my valves need adj. i dont know if that has anything to do with it
If you have fine copper metal shavings in the oil pan, I think you may have a more serious problem on your hands than an oil sending unit.
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:17 AM
  #14  
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Default RE: low oil pressure at idle.help..

b e a r i n g s !
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:48 AM
  #15  
roundman
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Default RE: low oil pressure at idle.help..

ORIGINAL: 88GT40

you see thats the problem the sending unit can not be ruled out, they are notoiously in accurate, hook yourself up with some magnetic oil drain plugs they will help enormously in disposing of the metal flakes which will contaminate your oil every time you change the oil. secondly you would be much better off with the mechanical guage, i'm sure everyone will concur. just to be sure use the mech guage and see what the pressure is exactly, it should raise along with the rpms.
bearing flakes are not iron based so magnets are no good at trapping them although magnets will trap other ferrous based metal flakes from things like the rings and lifters, etc. nobody asked how many miles he has on this motor, but I can say that my 88 with over 108,000 miles on it and over 440 passes down the strip with the stock engine still makes about 50 psi oil pressure with hot synthetic oil and the pressure goes up to about 60 psi when I go WOT. if his pressure stayed that low after a pump change, then his bearings are badly worn and the clearances have opened up so much the engine can't make oil pressure so he needs to do a rebuild on this engine IMO.
BTW, motor oil gets less viscous as it gets hot, not more viscous as someone said.
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