Non roller to Roller conversion
#3
RE: Non roller to Roller conversion
It's a waste of money to convert. Also retro fit hydraulc roller lifters are more expensive than solid roller lifters. If you are going to get racy with the engine get a solid roller or buy a roller block.
#5
RE: Non roller to Roller conversion
your all crazy, just drill and tap 2 holes in the lifter valley for that thing that holds the lifters in place and keeps them from twisting. cost about $20 at the machine shop.
#6
RE: Non roller to Roller conversion
Thats all I thought had to be done, what about a cam thrust bearing instead of the plate, is that needed also? I don't want to go with a different block, this is a 20th Aniversary model with the Dominator package, 1 of 4 produced and I want it to stay #s matching.
#7
RE: Non roller to Roller conversion
then why even mess with it? theres plenty of power to be made sticking with flat tappet cams. and yeah, you can drill the holes in the lifter valley and tap them yourself BUT if i remember correctly the roller blocks do have a taller lifter bore to help support the longer lifters. i dont know how much of a difference that makes but its worth mentioning i suppose.
*edit* and they use a plate not a bearing just like the flat tappets (you'll need shorter pushrods though)
*edit* and they use a plate not a bearing just like the flat tappets (you'll need shorter pushrods though)
#8
RE: Non roller to Roller conversion
I have been using a flat tappet cam, but the power with a roller is better and more rpms, I was using a .558 lift and making aroud 400 HP, but roller is the only way to make more, andits safer and you get more true HP out of a cam than with a flat tappet.
#9
RE: Non roller to Roller conversion
ORIGINAL: my77stang
then why even mess with it? theres plenty of power to be made sticking with flat tappet cams. and yeah, you can drill the holes in the lifter valley and tap them yourself BUT if i remember correctly the roller blocks do have a taller lifter bore to help support the longer lifters. i dont know how much of a difference that makes but its worth mentioning i suppose.
*edit* and they use a plate not a bearing just like the flat tappets (you'll need shorter pushrods though)
then why even mess with it? theres plenty of power to be made sticking with flat tappet cams. and yeah, you can drill the holes in the lifter valley and tap them yourself BUT if i remember correctly the roller blocks do have a taller lifter bore to help support the longer lifters. i dont know how much of a difference that makes but its worth mentioning i suppose.
*edit* and they use a plate not a bearing just like the flat tappets (you'll need shorter pushrods though)
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