Mustangkiler

i talked to a guy who does this for a living when i was doing mine, you shim the pinion and tighten with the nut no crush sleeve no seal, bearings in of course. You just tighten it until the back and forth play is out of it and you measure and reshim if you need too. Installing the crush sleeve and seal wont effect the pinion depth at all since its on the other side inside the dif case. Then when you have the right depth with the right shims you instal crush sleeve till there is no back and forth play and the seal and your done. It takes hundreds of lbs to do this though i used my leg and a handle from a jack. Air ratchet wasnt strong enough.

preciousroy

if you have one of those bar torque wrenches that can measure drag, you want the pinion drag to be somewhere around 18-24 in/lbs, and the backlash of the ring gear i think should be around 12 thousandths? if you overcrushed the collar you have to replace it. keep tightening it down and checking the play in the pinion, as soon as the slack is taken up, keep tightening in VERY small increments and check the drag every time, its very easy to overcrush the collar. and make sure the bearings have diff lube on them to get an accurate reading. if you broke one of the shims, definately replace it, use a micrometer to find out the size or take it to a shop or ford dealership and have someone measure it and order the same thickness shim

Mustangkiler

ya if you go from 273 to 373 with frpp its been known to use same shims on many occasions. I got stuck with 327 to 410 with a richmond gear before i found that out anyhow.

stocksuspension

case spreader is for aluminum housings, u cant get the pinion turning cuz the race isnt fully seated, sorry to say but differentials, aligaments, and engine building, theres no handbook that can help u out! its all time on the sattle

stocksuspension

12 thousanths will scream in 15 thousand miles

will

On new bearings 25-30 inlbs, they will loosen up to the tight side of the spec range, backlash .005-.007 is best for no 'klunking" when going from reverse to foreward
'

Ze2222

well just for ease of u reshiming the pinion. If i where u i'd take a bit of material off the inside of the rear pinion bearing so u can take it off by hand.. This just makes it easier then running to the press all the time if u need to change shims... just my 2 cents

rcdblink716

This is all good info, but some isn't so good. You don't torque the pinion. The crush seal is used to set turning torque. You tighten the pinion until your turning torque meets spec. You have to use a torque wrench that has a bar that shows torque, not an adjustable one. Your backlash is written on the gear by the manufacturer. You want to be within 4 thousandths in both directions of that backlash. Backlash is the difference between the pinion and ring gear. You use a dial indicator with a magnetic base to check it. With the carrier in and torqued, put the tip of the dial indicator onto one of the ring gear teeth. Then move the ring back and forth. The overall movement of the ring is your backlash. If it is off, you use shims to move it closer or further from the pinion. After all is said and done, you want to use a special gear paint to check your gear tracking. You paint a few ring gears with it, turn the pinion a few times, and look at the markin the pinion left in the paint. The area the pinion took away should be dead center on the ring gear.

Ze2222

well if ur having trouble setting ur pinion bearin preload, takes some practise to get a hang of it. Make ur life easier and get a soild spacer then as stated just torque it to spec.

stocksuspension

unless people have done more than 3 diffs, there should be no information given!! unless its for links!!!