83GT306

The timing might've been backed off a bit to accomodate the S/C(retarded)....you'll lose power there without the S/C.

Check your timing with a light, the stock setting is 10* BTC...without the S/C, you'll be able to step it up a bit to like 12*- 14* BTC for better low-end torque.
Buy one of those air/fuel ratio monitors and wire it into your O2 sensor to get an idea of how you're running.
Chances are, you're running rich with the bigger injectors...just adjust the fuel pressure up or down a bit.

Just for kicks, someone mentioned a GT-40 crate engine rated at 345 HP...take away about 80-100 hp for driveline losses and there you are...about 250 to 265 RWHP.

Dejavu

Hey guys,

thanks for the Info, I'm new at this though. I mean, I know I can take it to have a tune up done, but I'd rather learn how to do it myself....

Dbeck002, I don't know what all the abreviations mean, lol. "you could tell if a car is well tuned by hearing it, smelling it, driving it etc...

sometimes it takes a little more than that, like a dyno pull but i suggest you re-tune it anyway.

get some new spark plugs, fuel filter, oil change, pcv valve, check what the timing is at, clean your injectors with lucas cleaner, if timing is messed up fix that problem. check your codes and fix those problems, clean out your TB and IAC. check your TPS voltage etc... this is the basic tune up for a stock motor, anything else you will need dyno tuning. "

If you can put that in plain english for me I'll see if I can decode it so I can try to do it myself. I want to learn!!!!! grrr give me Knowledge! the understandable kind... lol

So, with all that stuff the car barely gained any power eh? sheesh, I would have hoped/assumed it would of gone up a bit.

I'm very serious though, Dbeck002 if you can give me a list of what a "TUNE-UP" consists of, and what I need to do one to my car, i would LOVE it if you told me, i should be having my car in my driveway some time near the end of next month and those are key points I want to hit. I'm going to clean it like theres no tomorrow and give it a "tune-up" if someone show's me how and what I need to do, lol.

Thanks alot guys, You've been of great help. I know I ask/post ALOT, but its because I am extremely curious about this car and i want to learn as much as possible. I promise that when I'm able to I'll be helping out other newbies, hehe.

Merry Christmas guys and Happy New Year.

Dejavu

tinman

Yep, just what I've always wanted to do, $400 or more for a header and then 5+ for pistons to run 13's. WHF, hold me back.........

tinman

Also, the best dyno in the world is a 1/4th mile dragstrip. I've been at this game for 30+ years and I've never had anything on a dyno yet. You go faster by THINKING about whats happening, not just throwing down $$$$.

Dan89lx

does the car have a stock intake?

Dejavu

Hey guys!

The car is running on :

VORTECH V1 S-TRIM BLOWER 10 psi
k+M aIR fILTER
PRO-M 75MM MASS AIR
67MM THROTTLE BODY
TRICK FLOW INTAKE
COBRA 1.7 RATIO ROLLER ROCKERS
MOTORSPORt E303 CAM
STOCK HEADS
FORGED PISTONS
STOCK CRANK+RODS
ARP MAIN +ROD BOLTS
24LB INJECTORS
ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
255LB FUEL PUMP
DUEL ELECTRIC FANS
4 CORE RADIATOR
HURST SHIFTER
BBK 1-5/8 EQUAL LENGTH HEADERS
NO CAT H PIPE
2 CHAMBER FLOW MASTER
3.55 REAR END GEARS

I don't want to do any more upgrades to it as of now, not until I pay it off, which will be in about 3 months. After that I'll start to do little stuff, right now my priority is to have it running perfectly, as smooth as possible and as it should be.

I'm fixing the weatherstripping, door handles, putting on some nice door pins, going to order the shift boot and new carpets and foam for the driverside seat. thats it for now hehe

But thats what its got right now....


Dejavu

roundman

if you don't ask questions you won't learn anything, so don't hesitate to ask them.
here's some definition of some of the abbreviations you will run into on here

ECU = engine control unit- the computer that controls the air/fuel mix and engine timing and lots of other engine functions
TB = throttle body - houses the throttle plate which controls air flow into the engine and therefore controls engine speed in rpms (revolutions per minute)
IAC - idle air control - device mounted on TB that controls engine idle
EGR - exhaust gas reciculation - valve mounted on TB that bleeds burnt exhaust gases back into the intake to help control emissions of NOX (oxides of nitrogen) a big component of smog
TPS - throttle position sensor - a variable resistor that sends a signal to the ECU telling it how open the throttle plate is, should be set with the throttle closed to just a hair under 1.0 volts DC for best throttle response and read above 4.0 volts at WOT (wide open throttle)
ECT = engine temperature sensor - sends signal to ECU about engine temperature
MAP - manifold absolute pressure - sends signal to ECT about the load on the engine by measuring pressure in the intake manifold
VSS = vehicle speed sensor - sends signal to ECU about vehicle speed

a good tune-up consists of new spark plugs, spark plug wires if needed, new distributor cap and rotor if needed, new fuel filter, new air filter, cleaning TB and IAC with carb cleaner, and finally checking and setting engine timing and idle speed. it'a also a good idea to inspect the serpentine drive belt and replace it if it has cracking and looks really old. also change the engine oil and filter every 3,000 miles or so. drain and flush the cooling system and refill with fresh antifreeze/water mixture every two years or so. and service automatic trannys every 30,000 miles with fluid and filter changes.

hope this helps you out some in understanding stuff here.

Dejavu

Hehe,

"freakin sweet!" like peter from Family Guy says, hehe.

Thanks alot dude, thats perfect. I needed those now I need to save them on my pc and memorize them,lol.

One question, does the Transmission oil in a Manual transmission need to be replaced? mine is manual thats why I'm asking.

What does a new distributor cap do? and which rotors are you talking about? the ones for the brakes? and how do I check engine timing and idle speed? and what do i look for when checking that? btw I am already replacing the belts in the car, is that what the serpentine drive belt is?

Also, do you recommend a certain brand for all of these things? like the type of oils, filters, belts, distributor cap, spark plugs and spark wires and stuff like that.... cause I would have no idea which kind to buy and I don't want to buy cheap stuff for my car....

Thanks again guys

Dejavu

roundman

yes the oil in a manual tranny should be replaced from time to time. it should say how often in the owner's manual and make sure you use the exact lubricant they recommend for it too.
the distributor cap and distributor rotor have electrical contacts that wear over time and the gap between the contacts in the cap and the end of the rotor wil increase over time due to the arcing that take place when the spark plugs fire and this weakens the spark that finally reaches the spark plugs. for best performance, you want the contacts to be clean and the gap as small as possible which is why you need to replace these parts from time to time. the rotor I was talking about is the one in the inside the distributor cap, not the brake rotors. go to that website how stuff works and read up on engine timing and idle speed before you attempt to do anything with them as you can mess things up real easy if you don't know what you're doing here.
you can get as many opinions about what brand oil and parts to buy as there are people on this forum as everybody has their own favorites. personally I like Pennzoil motor oils and other lubricants, Fram oil and air filters, Gates or Goodyear belts, and Autolite spark plugs and other ignition parts. Ford factory parts are usually branded as Motorcraft parts and they will always work too. I think it's best to buy brand name auto parts instead of some of the cheap stuff you can find in some auto parts places as the money you might save on cheap parts is not a good investment when it comes to keeping your car in good running condition and you can rest asssured I will get an argument on this subject also. Guys are real passionate about their cars and can be very opinionated too about what products they use and which ones they think aren't worth a damn too, so you have to take whatever anybody says as just their own personal opinion, not as an absolute must do. Personally I don't like Exxon gas and Quaker State oil products, but that's just me. When I have a choice, I'll use something else, but I wouldn't hesitate to use them if they were the only ones I could get and had to have something or walk. LOL

91hatchgt

Wow, that's a half of a second faster than they are rated at from factory in the 1/4 mile. You must be an awesome driver. What are your shift points in each gear? I have heard that the stock engine runs out of power build at about 4200 RPM? I have also heard to take 1st gear to 5200RPM ... Let me know!