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Freeze-12 or r134??

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Old 05-24-2007, 11:39 PM
  #11  
enix187
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??

the r134 in my truck is much better than the a/c in my 5.0, but if your a/c works fine don't waste the money on a conversion
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Old 05-24-2007, 11:43 PM
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86 5.0L
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??

lol the A/c in my old 5.0 waas better then my dads new F150
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Old 05-24-2007, 11:45 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??

ORIGINAL: enix187

the r134 in my truck is much better than the a/c in my 5.0, but if your a/c works fine don't waste the money on a conversion
My a/c is empty...
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:15 AM
  #14  
PRO50SC
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??

Freeze 12 FTMFW!!!! Just add it like R-12. Nothing else needed and cools every bit as good as the oe stuff. F**k a conversion!!!!
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:23 AM
  #15  
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??



Freeze 12 (DifluoroTetraChlorofluoroethane)is not the same as the old R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) which contains more chlorine. The real R-12 if you can find it is over $100/lb. Freeze 12 still does contain chlorine but they are claiming it is compatible w/ mineral & polyester oils. That's the big thing w/ the newer refrigerants is the oil compatibility so use it if you want.
The system should be evacuated (vacuumed) to remove moisture & non-condensables (air). Moisture will collect @ the coldest point in the system (expansion valve)& freeze, then melt, then freeze etc etc causing system to cycle on & off. Non-condensables will collect @ the highest point in the system as air does in water. Once non-condensablescollect @ the top of the condenser coil (radiator)it creates an obstruction to refrigerant flow causing high pressure w/ reduced cooling. If you dont have a vacume pump take it to a reputable shop.

The older cars that actually had R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) did not cycle the A/Cw/ the defroster so the compressor seals would dry out from lack of oil during cooler months. So those older cars you should turn on the A/C for a minuate or 2 every month. This will keep the compressor seals wet & sealed. Newer cars use the A/C to lower humidity when defroster is used so it not a problem during winter months.

TECHNICALLY in NYS no one that is not EPA certified is allowed by law to work on their own A/C. They still sell the kits in every Auto store here. My wholesalers wont sell any refrigerant to me w/o my EPA certification on record, but I can walk into Wal-Mark & buy it, noquestions, LOL.

BTW, the fine for ventingrefrigerants to the atmosphere is $25,000. They award $15K to any one who reports venting that leads to a conviction. Its almost imposssible to prove tho.
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:27 AM
  #16  
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??

frostbyte knows his sh*t don't he! Sounds like he has a background in refrigeration, maybe thats why he goes by frostbyte!
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:27 AM
  #17  
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??

ORIGINAL: FrostByte



Freeze 12 (DifluoroTetraChlorofluoroethane)is not the same as the old R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) which contains more chlorine. The real R-12 if you can find it is over $100/lb. Freeze 12 still does contain chlorine but they are claiming it is compatible w/ mineral & polyester oils. That's the big thing w/ the newer refrigerants is the oil compatibility so use it if you want.
The system should be evacuated (vacuumed) to remove moisture & non-condensables (air). Moisture will collect @ the coldest point in the system (expansion valve)& freeze, then melt, then freeze etc etc causing system to cycle on & off. Non-condensables will collect @ the highest point in the system as air does in water. Once non-condensablescollect @ the top of the condenser coil (radiator)it creates an obstruction to refrigerant flow causing high pressure w/ reduced cooling. If you dont have a vacume pump take it to a reputable shop.

The older cars that actually had R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) did not cycle the A/Cw/ the defroster so the compressor seals would dry out from lack of oil during cooler months. So those older cars you should turn on the A/C for a minuate or 2 every month. This will keep the compressor seals wet & sealed. Newer cars use the A/C to lower humidity when defroster is used so it not a problem during winter months.
Nice cut and paste. What's the point to your post? He's asking which is better.
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:39 AM
  #18  
86 5.0L
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??

ORIGINAL: PRO50SC

Freeze 12 FTMFW!!!! Just add it like R-12. Nothing else needed and cools every bit as good as the oe stuff. F**k a conversion!!!!
agreed
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:43 AM
  #19  
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??

ORIGINAL: PRO50SC

ORIGINAL: FrostByte



Freeze 12 (DifluoroTetraChlorofluoroethane)is not the same as the old R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) which contains more chlorine. The real R-12 if you can find it is over $100/lb. Freeze 12 still does contain chlorine but they are claiming it is compatible w/ mineral & polyester oils. That's the big thing w/ the newer refrigerants is the oil compatibility so use it if you want.
The system should be evacuated (vacuumed) to remove moisture & non-condensables (air). Moisture will collect @ the coldest point in the system (expansion valve)& freeze, then melt, then freeze etc etc causing system to cycle on & off. Non-condensables will collect @ the highest point in the system as air does in water. Once non-condensablescollect @ the top of the condenser coil (radiator)it creates an obstruction to refrigerant flow causing high pressure w/ reduced cooling. If you dont have a vacume pump take it to a reputable shop.

The older cars that actually had R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) did not cycle the A/Cw/ the defroster so the compressor seals would dry out from lack of oil during cooler months. So those older cars you should turn on the A/C for a minuate or 2 every month. This will keep the compressor seals wet & sealed. Newer cars use the A/C to lower humidity when defroster is used so it not a problem during winter months.
Nice cut and paste. What's the point to your post? He's asking which is better.
1- Thats not a cut & paste, I am a UNIVERSALY certified refrigeration tech who has owend my own busines for 20 years. [:-]That basic refrigeration.
2-Point is to also answer why a vacume pump is needed to evacuate the system.
3-I highlighted red for you the answer to which he should use.
Also I had a mechanic that told my dad he had a major leak in his A/C system in his old truck & would cost $500 to fix. It was in for inspection & I had already diagnosed the leak.I put some refrigerant in, ran it for 5 mins to get oil moving, evacuated& charged the system, no $500 leak. Just want people to be aware of the dishonest. Make them show you where the leak is w/ their leak detector if they say its major repair.
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:47 AM
  #20  
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Default RE: Freeze-12 or r134??

Ill make apost answering the basic car A/C FAQ if you would care to make an A/C sticky if you like Pro50. Seem to be answering the same stuff all the time
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