Freeze-12 or r134??
#13
RE: Freeze-12 or r134??
ORIGINAL: enix187
the r134 in my truck is much better than the a/c in my 5.0, but if your a/c works fine don't waste the money on a conversion
the r134 in my truck is much better than the a/c in my 5.0, but if your a/c works fine don't waste the money on a conversion
#15
RE: Freeze-12 or r134??
Freeze 12 (DifluoroTetraChlorofluoroethane)is not the same as the old R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) which contains more chlorine. The real R-12 if you can find it is over $100/lb. Freeze 12 still does contain chlorine but they are claiming it is compatible w/ mineral & polyester oils. That's the big thing w/ the newer refrigerants is the oil compatibility so use it if you want.
The system should be evacuated (vacuumed) to remove moisture & non-condensables (air). Moisture will collect @ the coldest point in the system (expansion valve)& freeze, then melt, then freeze etc etc causing system to cycle on & off. Non-condensables will collect @ the highest point in the system as air does in water. Once non-condensablescollect @ the top of the condenser coil (radiator)it creates an obstruction to refrigerant flow causing high pressure w/ reduced cooling. If you dont have a vacume pump take it to a reputable shop.
The older cars that actually had R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) did not cycle the A/Cw/ the defroster so the compressor seals would dry out from lack of oil during cooler months. So those older cars you should turn on the A/C for a minuate or 2 every month. This will keep the compressor seals wet & sealed. Newer cars use the A/C to lower humidity when defroster is used so it not a problem during winter months.
TECHNICALLY in NYS no one that is not EPA certified is allowed by law to work on their own A/C. They still sell the kits in every Auto store here. My wholesalers wont sell any refrigerant to me w/o my EPA certification on record, but I can walk into Wal-Mark & buy it, noquestions, LOL.
BTW, the fine for ventingrefrigerants to the atmosphere is $25,000. They award $15K to any one who reports venting that leads to a conviction. Its almost imposssible to prove tho.
#17
RE: Freeze-12 or r134??
ORIGINAL: FrostByte
Freeze 12 (DifluoroTetraChlorofluoroethane)is not the same as the old R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) which contains more chlorine. The real R-12 if you can find it is over $100/lb. Freeze 12 still does contain chlorine but they are claiming it is compatible w/ mineral & polyester oils. That's the big thing w/ the newer refrigerants is the oil compatibility so use it if you want.
The system should be evacuated (vacuumed) to remove moisture & non-condensables (air). Moisture will collect @ the coldest point in the system (expansion valve)& freeze, then melt, then freeze etc etc causing system to cycle on & off. Non-condensables will collect @ the highest point in the system as air does in water. Once non-condensablescollect @ the top of the condenser coil (radiator)it creates an obstruction to refrigerant flow causing high pressure w/ reduced cooling. If you dont have a vacume pump take it to a reputable shop.
The older cars that actually had R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) did not cycle the A/Cw/ the defroster so the compressor seals would dry out from lack of oil during cooler months. So those older cars you should turn on the A/C for a minuate or 2 every month. This will keep the compressor seals wet & sealed. Newer cars use the A/C to lower humidity when defroster is used so it not a problem during winter months.
Freeze 12 (DifluoroTetraChlorofluoroethane)is not the same as the old R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) which contains more chlorine. The real R-12 if you can find it is over $100/lb. Freeze 12 still does contain chlorine but they are claiming it is compatible w/ mineral & polyester oils. That's the big thing w/ the newer refrigerants is the oil compatibility so use it if you want.
The system should be evacuated (vacuumed) to remove moisture & non-condensables (air). Moisture will collect @ the coldest point in the system (expansion valve)& freeze, then melt, then freeze etc etc causing system to cycle on & off. Non-condensables will collect @ the highest point in the system as air does in water. Once non-condensablescollect @ the top of the condenser coil (radiator)it creates an obstruction to refrigerant flow causing high pressure w/ reduced cooling. If you dont have a vacume pump take it to a reputable shop.
The older cars that actually had R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) did not cycle the A/Cw/ the defroster so the compressor seals would dry out from lack of oil during cooler months. So those older cars you should turn on the A/C for a minuate or 2 every month. This will keep the compressor seals wet & sealed. Newer cars use the A/C to lower humidity when defroster is used so it not a problem during winter months.
#19
RE: Freeze-12 or r134??
ORIGINAL: PRO50SC
Nice cut and paste. What's the point to your post? He's asking which is better.
ORIGINAL: FrostByte
Freeze 12 (DifluoroTetraChlorofluoroethane)is not the same as the old R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) which contains more chlorine. The real R-12 if you can find it is over $100/lb. Freeze 12 still does contain chlorine but they are claiming it is compatible w/ mineral & polyester oils. That's the big thing w/ the newer refrigerants is the oil compatibility so use it if you want.
The system should be evacuated (vacuumed) to remove moisture & non-condensables (air). Moisture will collect @ the coldest point in the system (expansion valve)& freeze, then melt, then freeze etc etc causing system to cycle on & off. Non-condensables will collect @ the highest point in the system as air does in water. Once non-condensablescollect @ the top of the condenser coil (radiator)it creates an obstruction to refrigerant flow causing high pressure w/ reduced cooling. If you dont have a vacume pump take it to a reputable shop.
The older cars that actually had R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) did not cycle the A/Cw/ the defroster so the compressor seals would dry out from lack of oil during cooler months. So those older cars you should turn on the A/C for a minuate or 2 every month. This will keep the compressor seals wet & sealed. Newer cars use the A/C to lower humidity when defroster is used so it not a problem during winter months.
Freeze 12 (DifluoroTetraChlorofluoroethane)is not the same as the old R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) which contains more chlorine. The real R-12 if you can find it is over $100/lb. Freeze 12 still does contain chlorine but they are claiming it is compatible w/ mineral & polyester oils. That's the big thing w/ the newer refrigerants is the oil compatibility so use it if you want.
The system should be evacuated (vacuumed) to remove moisture & non-condensables (air). Moisture will collect @ the coldest point in the system (expansion valve)& freeze, then melt, then freeze etc etc causing system to cycle on & off. Non-condensables will collect @ the highest point in the system as air does in water. Once non-condensablescollect @ the top of the condenser coil (radiator)it creates an obstruction to refrigerant flow causing high pressure w/ reduced cooling. If you dont have a vacume pump take it to a reputable shop.
The older cars that actually had R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) did not cycle the A/Cw/ the defroster so the compressor seals would dry out from lack of oil during cooler months. So those older cars you should turn on the A/C for a minuate or 2 every month. This will keep the compressor seals wet & sealed. Newer cars use the A/C to lower humidity when defroster is used so it not a problem during winter months.
2-Point is to also answer why a vacume pump is needed to evacuate the system.
3-I highlighted red for you the answer to which he should use.
Also I had a mechanic that told my dad he had a major leak in his A/C system in his old truck & would cost $500 to fix. It was in for inspection & I had already diagnosed the leak.I put some refrigerant in, ran it for 5 mins to get oil moving, evacuated& charged the system, no $500 leak. Just want people to be aware of the dishonest. Make them show you where the leak is w/ their leak detector if they say its major repair.