NON roller block BOSS 302
06-04-2007, 12:16 AM
#21
Yukon Cornelius
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Posts: 11,808
RE: NON roller block BOSS 302
ORIGINAL: ZachW04Stang
Using the link bar lifter is the only way to go. I had an 83 motor and found it wasn't really worth the extra money to swap over. Hydraulic flat tappet lifters and hydraulic flat tappet cam cost the same as the lifters.
Also with that boss block I think your stuck using clevaland heads or your gonna have to have it drilled for small block ford heads.
Using the link bar lifter is the only way to go. I had an 83 motor and found it wasn't really worth the extra money to swap over. Hydraulic flat tappet lifters and hydraulic flat tappet cam cost the same as the lifters.
Also with that boss block I think your stuck using clevaland heads or your gonna have to have it drilled for small block ford heads.
cleveland heads and windsor heads have the same exact bolt pattern
06-04-2007, 12:17 AM
#22
Yukon Cornelius
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Posts: 11,808
RE: NON roller block BOSS 302
ORIGINAL: luckythirteen13
thats how i did it for the motor in my sig. the block is a 68 from a cougar but wanted hydrollic roller. cost about $20 at the machine shop.
ORIGINAL: rcdblink716
You can do it like they do it on the late models. Drill and tap the block for the plate that holds down the lifter separators(dunno what they're called) That would be the cheap way
You can do it like they do it on the late models. Drill and tap the block for the plate that holds down the lifter separators(dunno what they're called) That would be the cheap way
06-04-2007, 12:37 AM
#24
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 9,092
RE: NON roller block BOSS 302
ORIGINAL: rmodel65
you have to run the reduced base circle cam if you go that route
ORIGINAL: luckythirteen13
thats how i did it for the motor in my sig. the block is a 68 from a cougar but wanted hydrollic roller. cost about $20 at the machine shop.
ORIGINAL: rcdblink716
You can do it like they do it on the late models. Drill and tap the block for the plate that holds down the lifter separators(dunno what they're called) That would be the cheap way
You can do it like they do it on the late models. Drill and tap the block for the plate that holds down the lifter separators(dunno what they're called) That would be the cheap way
06-04-2007, 12:55 AM
#25
Yukon Cornelius
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Posts: 11,808
RE: NON roller block BOSS 302
i believe they can reduce the oil pressure of the motor because the place where the oil feed will not correspond with the lifters and the lifter can pop out completely at higher rpms
06-04-2007, 02:50 AM
#26
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chandler, Az
Posts: 1,080
RE: NON roller block BOSS 302
Sell the short block to someone doing a restoration and buy an aftermarket block. They're stronger and you dont have any hassles with roller cams. That block would probably go for the same price as a dart or frpp block.
06-04-2007, 09:41 AM
#27
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 3,926
RE: NON roller block BOSS 302
ORIGINAL: luckythirteen13
thats news to me because im not running a reduced anything
ORIGINAL: rmodel65
you have to run the reduced base circle cam if you go that route
ORIGINAL: luckythirteen13
thats how i did it for the motor in my sig. the block is a 68 from a cougar but wanted hydrollic roller. cost about $20 at the machine shop.
ORIGINAL: rcdblink716
You can do it like they do it on the late models. Drill and tap the block for the plate that holds down the lifter separators(dunno what they're called) That would be the cheap way
You can do it like they do it on the late models. Drill and tap the block for the plate that holds down the lifter separators(dunno what they're called) That would be the cheap way
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