Rules 4 Track - Battery Relocation
07-02-2007, 06:39 PM
#13
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 15,042
RE: Rules 4 Track - Battery Relocation
Never mind guys I found one that seems to be pretty much everything. Anyway, if anyone was wondering heres one that I found on another site.
---------------------------------------------------------------
For a battery cut off switch, see
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=42225 is the switch
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you
will be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire.
The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that
the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. On the diagram it is #904, lt green/red wire that connects
to the alternator and dash light. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on
when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green/red wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies
power to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn
the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
---------------------------------------------------------------
For a battery cut off switch, see
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=42225 is the switch
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you
will be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire.
The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that
the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. On the diagram it is #904, lt green/red wire that connects
to the alternator and dash light. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on
when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green/red wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies
power to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn
the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
07-02-2007, 10:00 PM
#15
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location:
Posts: 5,116
RE: Rules 4 Track - Battery Relocation
now if you would have took your lazy *** and looked for that acticle earlieryou wouldn't have bother us about that rust bucket
ORIGINAL: 88BlueGT
Never mind guys I found one that seems to be pretty much everything. Anyway, if anyone was wondering heres one that I found on another site.
---------------------------------------------------------------
For a battery cut off switch, see
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=42225 is the switch
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you
will be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire.
The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that
the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. On the diagram it is #904, lt green/red wire that connects
to the alternator and dash light. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on
when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green/red wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies
power to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn
the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
Never mind guys I found one that seems to be pretty much everything. Anyway, if anyone was wondering heres one that I found on another site.
---------------------------------------------------------------
For a battery cut off switch, see
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=42225 is the switch
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you
will be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire.
The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that
the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. On the diagram it is #904, lt green/red wire that connects
to the alternator and dash light. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on
when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green/red wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies
power to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn
the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
07-03-2007, 01:29 PM
#16
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,999
RE: Rules 4 Track - Battery Relocation
I'm not sure if track rules require the big positive wire to be dead at all times except during cranking but it sure is safer.
The battery cut off switch which is mandatory at sanctioned tracks must also kill the engine when it's flipped to off.
Some cars will die, like mine, only because my alternator alone will not supply enough voltage to the ignition when it's idling but the proper way is to wire it so the switch kills the charging system too.
The battery cut off switch which is mandatory at sanctioned tracks must also kill the engine when it's flipped to off.
Some cars will die, like mine, only because my alternator alone will not supply enough voltage to the ignition when it's idling but the proper way is to wire it so the switch kills the charging system too.
07-03-2007, 01:32 PM
#17
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,770
RE: Rules 4 Track - Battery Relocation
no it has to die immediately or they will not pass you through tech, if you flip the switch you arent supposed to be able to crank, supposed to kill complete power to your car
07-03-2007, 05:28 PM
#19
Pro. B.S. caller outer
Join Date: May 2004
Location: IL
Posts: 9,644
RE: Rules 4 Track - Battery Relocation
ORIGINAL: dukeme
07-03-2007, 06:07 PM
#20
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,770
RE: Rules 4 Track - Battery Relocation
here they dont have a problem with the on/off switch behind the plate as long as you have one, some of the tech guys are asking that we put a sticker pointing where it is though