rear main seal... replaced and finised
#21
RE: rear main seal...
ORIGINAL: my77stang
you needed help getting a bolt? whos the dummy??????
future reference, always get bolts from the hardware store, that way you can get only the ones you need, in the right length, and in a stronger bolt (grade 8 or stainless)
dummies, the guy couldnt even find the bolts that hold the tranny and block together...
future reference, always get bolts from the hardware store, that way you can get only the ones you need, in the right length, and in a stronger bolt (grade 8 or stainless)
but the guy couldnt find them on their computer or in their big "every part ever made for any car" books... thats what I meant
the bellhousing to block bolts area 13mm head, but I cannot remember the thread count[&:] I have then in a baggie, so I can measure them for their length..
#22
RE: rear main seal...
well, got the new rear main seal in... took me all of 20 minutes from setup to clean up...
easiest repair I ever did...
but for some reason, the old one has this rubbery sealer all over it and the rear main cover... it peeled off, I knew it wasnt supposed to be there musta been a leaky seal or something...
easiest repair I ever did...
but for some reason, the old one has this rubbery sealer all over it and the rear main cover... it peeled off, I knew it wasnt supposed to be there musta been a leaky seal or something...
#23
RE: rear main seal...
hmm.... i think i remember saying something about permatex around the seal before you put it in, notice the old one had it on[8D]
and btw the 3.8 is metric which is why they were 13mm bolts but the new ones need to be standard threads cause they are screwing into a 302. 7/16 course thread (5/8 bolt head) IIRC.
as a bonus, you can look at the price of the bolts at the hardware store. lets say they are 36 cents each but the 1/4" bolts are 14 cents each...... throw the bolts in the little paper pouch and write down the price as 14 cents. this makes a hellofa difference when your buying like 20 or 30 different bolts/washers/nuts. not to mention stainless bolts can cost over a buck a piece so getting them for like 14 or 18 cents or something is sweet.
and believe me, the girl at the counter has NO idea - they never have, they never will.
and btw the 3.8 is metric which is why they were 13mm bolts but the new ones need to be standard threads cause they are screwing into a 302. 7/16 course thread (5/8 bolt head) IIRC.
as a bonus, you can look at the price of the bolts at the hardware store. lets say they are 36 cents each but the 1/4" bolts are 14 cents each...... throw the bolts in the little paper pouch and write down the price as 14 cents. this makes a hellofa difference when your buying like 20 or 30 different bolts/washers/nuts. not to mention stainless bolts can cost over a buck a piece so getting them for like 14 or 18 cents or something is sweet.
and believe me, the girl at the counter has NO idea - they never have, they never will.
#24
RE: rear main seal...
ORIGINAL: my77stang
hmm.... i think i remember saying something about permatex around the seal before you put it in, notice the old one had it on[8D]
and btw the 3.8 is metric which is why they were 13mm bolts but the new ones need to be standard threads cause they are screwing into a 302. 7/16 course thread (5/8 bolt head) IIRC.
as a bonus, you can look at the price of the bolts at the hardware store. lets say they are 36 cents each but the 1/4" bolts are 14 cents each...... throw the bolts in the little paper pouch and write down the price as 14 cents. this makes a hellofa difference when your buying like 20 or 30 different bolts/washers/nuts. not to mention stainless bolts can cost over a buck a piece so getting them for like 14 or 18 cents or something is sweet.
and believe me, the girl at the counter has NO idea - they never have, they never will.
hmm.... i think i remember saying something about permatex around the seal before you put it in, notice the old one had it on[8D]
and btw the 3.8 is metric which is why they were 13mm bolts but the new ones need to be standard threads cause they are screwing into a 302. 7/16 course thread (5/8 bolt head) IIRC.
as a bonus, you can look at the price of the bolts at the hardware store. lets say they are 36 cents each but the 1/4" bolts are 14 cents each...... throw the bolts in the little paper pouch and write down the price as 14 cents. this makes a hellofa difference when your buying like 20 or 30 different bolts/washers/nuts. not to mention stainless bolts can cost over a buck a piece so getting them for like 14 or 18 cents or something is sweet.
and believe me, the girl at the counter has NO idea - they never have, they never will.
#25
RE: rear main seal...
i do it when i DO have money, i'll be damned if i wanna spend something like 1.37 per bolt, .68 per nut, and .27 per washer for stainless if im buying like a dozen things. add that up at the register and your like "WTF, i just came here for a couple bolts?!?!"[&:]
#27
RE: rear main seal...
ORIGINAL: my77stang
hmm.... i think i remember saying something about permatex around the seal before you put it in, notice the old one had it on[8D]
and btw the 3.8 is metric which is why they were 13mm bolts but the new ones need to be standard threads cause they are screwing into a 302. 7/16 course thread (5/8 bolt head) IIRC.
as a bonus, you can look at the price of the bolts at the hardware store. lets say they are 36 cents each but the 1/4" bolts are 14 cents each...... throw the bolts in the little paper pouch and write down the price as 14 cents. this makes a hellofa difference when your buying like 20 or 30 different bolts/washers/nuts. not to mention stainless bolts can cost over a buck a piece so getting them for like 14 or 18 cents or something is sweet.
and believe me, the girl at the counter has NO idea - they never have, they never will.
hmm.... i think i remember saying something about permatex around the seal before you put it in, notice the old one had it on[8D]
and btw the 3.8 is metric which is why they were 13mm bolts but the new ones need to be standard threads cause they are screwing into a 302. 7/16 course thread (5/8 bolt head) IIRC.
as a bonus, you can look at the price of the bolts at the hardware store. lets say they are 36 cents each but the 1/4" bolts are 14 cents each...... throw the bolts in the little paper pouch and write down the price as 14 cents. this makes a hellofa difference when your buying like 20 or 30 different bolts/washers/nuts. not to mention stainless bolts can cost over a buck a piece so getting them for like 14 or 18 cents or something is sweet.
and believe me, the girl at the counter has NO idea - they never have, they never will.
though I did test fit one and it threaded in fine without a hitch, but I'll get new ones cuz they are 21 years old and I'm not the trusting type...
also, my flywheel came in today, I am really happy with MPS's service, they had it to me really quick, and I'm pretty far from them too
#28
RE: rear main seal...
hey do you have a idle selenoid on that throttle body of the 3.8? soaring was asking about one of em, maybe you should PM him if ya got one and your motor is going to the boneyard
#29
RE: rear main seal...
ORIGINAL: my77stang
hey do you have a idle selenoid on that throttle body of the 3.8? soaring was asking about one of em, maybe you should PM him if ya got one and your motor is going to the boneyard
hey do you have a idle selenoid on that throttle body of the 3.8? soaring was asking about one of em, maybe you should PM him if ya got one and your motor is going to the boneyard
yeah I have it, wont work on the V8 will it? (dumb question[&:]) hell he can have the whole Throttle body injection unit if he wants it, I doubt I'll need anything on it at all...
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Black_GT_02
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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08-20-2015 01:26 PM