WhiteWindsor

Some may have read that i need to replace my oil pump,dist. and i am putting new rings on. I have another problem. I need some advise from people with first hand experience, not just what you have read. Because i have read tons of literature on the subject and i am still confused. In the beginning i was running breathers on both valve covers, i had a small leak that turned into a gusher and dip stick was popping out. So i have blow by. Well i went to change my 2 piece rear seal (this is a 70's 351 block,carbed) There was a chip of block missing about 1/8-1/4 inch(i'm not claiming pressure did this, i am not sure what did)It was right where the block joins by the seal. I had it machined to a 1 piece rear main and there is still a leak, though not nearly as big. I guess i still have a problem with ventilation. I replaced pass side breather with a pcv going to carb where the brakes normally hook to, i have manual brakes. This did seem to improve slightly but there has to more i can do. Most of engine specs are in sig. Any ideas?

Thanks

samseed101

Not to point out the obvious here, but you have some major problems. You don't have foprced induction, yet theres enough blowby that two breathers can't keep up with it. What's your compression like? Are you sure your pistons / rings are okay? I suspect you'll see that your compression is going to be on the low side. I can't see any other way you'd have so much blowby. Even with two breathers, the dipstick is still popping out? Is is spraying oil out as well?

Have you looked into a crankcase evac system?

r.barn

Header Evac kit

tinman

The engine, IMHO, must have had some broken rings OR excessive end gaps.
Thats about the only way you would get that sort of pressure in the crankcase unless,
Head gaskets blown.......

w8less

or actually crank case vac system

WhiteWindsor

Compression is a tad over 11:1. I have diamond racing pistons. The dip stick only pop out on 3 occasions. Since i have hooked up the pcv, it hasnt come out and no it has never sprayed oil. The machine shop assembled engine when they machined the block to a one piece. I was with them when they diss. and ***. the engine. They thought the rings looked fine and the pistons had no wear and were very clean,but we did replace all bearings for good measure.It could be poss. that machine work was not 100% true or seal was not put in correctly. I have not done a leak down but have done a compression check, all cyl are 174-180psi. I will replace seal with best one i can find. Other than car not running because of oil pump i dont think i have major problems. The oil and water are clean, i do get some smoke but is black/gray. The race hp 750 is running a little rich. But the car has awesome power. I had a appt. for a dyno tune with shop before my pumped crapped. They said as far as the rich condition that i might have to deal with it at low rpm's because motor was built to scream. They said my car should be trailered to track and if i do drive on street that i will suffer some streetability. I am replacing rings when i install new pump just to be sure than off to machine shop for a dyno tune. They were familiar with my car before they ever worked on it and the dyno man thinks maybe i will have 400-430 RWHP hp na, anything in that vacinity would be nice.. Thanks for the opinions. I was looking for the response r.barn stated, that is what the shop suggested also. Anyone know any write-ups for this?

r.barn

400rwhp sounds about right.

mine made 360rwhp and you have bigger heads, cam and high compression than me.

WhiteWindsor

Any thing around 400 will be nice. I am ready to go to track. I am not exactly legal though,I dont have all the safety devices necc. for what i think my car will run. The int. is all stock. I do have batt and fuel cell mounted in rear,. I believe i have proper susp. I have adj uppers and lowers,90/10 up front and 50/50 in rear, axle tubes and boxes are welded,31 spline moser axles,full spool,mac rear-end girdle and i think the tko will take the power. I have nos tank in back along with a sep fuel pump for wet shot and fuel lines are run to carb. i'm just waiting to buy a wilson plate. Already have nitrous gauge and bottle heater hooked up, everything is run to switches through relays, the bottle heater,fan switch,fuel pumps,nitrous,purge and other switches that i cant think of right now. I will be runing a 150 shot. I think with that i could be looking at high 10's for maybe one run till they run me through tech[:@]

PONY GUY

I have it on my car the olny thing is it suck you gotta weld the bungs into the bottom of the header. I noticed a better ring seal , no leaks or anything summitt has them for $49,95