plsirl

I pulled the '91 302 out of my 68 mustang last weekend due to intermittent white smoke from one tail pipe, low to no oil pressure, a tapping noise, and it having the incorrect timing cover.

The engine was actually in pretty decent shape; however, the crank and related bearings were pretty worn so I am getting it re-ground (a local machine shop quoted $180 for a re-grind and a set of matched bearings, sound about right?), which would explain the low oil pressure.

Given this information, am I a fool to not get new cam bearings at the same time (and I imagine a new cam as a re-grind would be in order too)? I was trying to avoid this as it means a substantial amount more time and money invested.

Other than that I am giving it a new oil pump, gaskets, etc.

Any and all related comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton!

67mustang302

If the cam bearings are in good shape there's no need for new ones

plsirl

I cant tell if they are or are not. I was trying to avoid pulling the cam. I guess I will just pull it anyway. The cam's journals should tell me if the bearings are worn, correct (like the crank journals show the same damage as it's bearings)?

92hatchLX

I would highly suggest replacing the cam with something different if you've already gotten it taken apart. Is the motor stock as of now? Why not over haul the entire motor? It sounds pretty tired. How did your head gaskets look?

plsirl

Yep, the engine is basically stock, sans an Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and 600cfm carb (and headers). I am doing more to it than I listed above. The cylinders, however, have very little taper, so I will just be honing them.

So a new cam and bearings is a very good idea? A worn crank usually means the cam is going to be worn as well? Rats... I was hoping someone would have mercy on my wallet and say "Nah, the cam is invincible." Darned wishful thinking lol.

mjr46

since it's a roller cam engine the lobes don't generally wear as bad as a standard flat tappet cam but while it's out why not throw a mild cam to it....you'll be glad you did in the long run

monkeydude3

I am going to tell you if you had oil pressure issues, it lies either in your pump or your cam bearings. The camshaft is the very first place the pump pushes the oil, and thus this is where it starts to build pressure.

You had better if nothing else check the cam itself, and replace the bearings accordingly.

If you have it down this far, I would also suggest a full overhaul... you don't have to modify anything, but you may as go through it all considering you have come this far.A fresh stock engine is a huge improvement.

plsirl

I figured that due to the valve-tap-like noise that the engine was making, I would find a damaged lifter (hydra roller), but they all appear normal. I can't, however figure out how to know if their insides are functioning correctly; any ideas?

As far as cam goes, can I use either of these two with stock ported heads and springs?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

Seems pointless to just re-grind the stock cam.

Thanks a ton for all of the input folks!

plsirl

Ok, the machine shop quoted me $450 for the following things, does this sound about right?

*Trade my damaged crank for a re-ground crank with matched bearings
*Hot tank my block
*Install new cam bearings
*Hone cylinders

They said it would take 1 - 4 days.

Do machine shops usually install freeze plugs, or should I just do that myself? I have them on hand.

plsirl

Also, if the pistons and rods appear fine,should Ito get new ones? They are the stock '91 equipment. I dont intend to ever get over 300-350hp, but I really do not want to have to pull the engine again for a while.


Thanks for all the help folks. =)