TheRiddler01

I have a 95 Mustang GT manual transmission. Has about 155000 miles and I've had it since it was new and have never done anything to modify it. I was driving it about a week ago and noticed when I came to a red light and shifted into 1st it wanted to die. I thought maybe was something I did and kept driving. About 5 min later went to a drive thru and ordered food. While sitting I smelled something like rubber burning. Smoke was coming through my shifter. Pulled out of line, turned off and opened hood. Was smoking from the back of the engine, like where the clutch would be? Checked the oil and it seemed really hot. The car never ran hot though. Let it cool off and drove home. Kept trying to die at the lights and when I would shift it in 1st had to gas it, check engine light is on. When it's sitting it idles slightly up and down and gauges will jump aroung slightly. Drove a few days later to store and noticed a bad gas smell. Took to this old man who's super affordable and honest. He told me my fuel filter was clogged and I had some water in my gas tank. Fixed it and also fixed a leak in my rear axle, which I knew about. As soon as I started it I knew it wasn't fixed. Still trying to die, haven't seen the smoking again after the one time though. Check engine light always on. Thegas smell is gone though. Oh yea, and if I give it gas when it's sitting it will die. I don't want to go back to him due to the fact I don't think he has the equipment to check the computer if it's having an issue. He's great for small stuff though. I will take to a more "modern" garage but would like some of your suggestions when I go. I'm a woman and not real car savvy, but I'm not a complete idiot either. But I would like to have some clue as to what could be going on so I don't get taken advantage of, which does happen to women time to time with mechanics. Thanks for the help guys! (and gals?)

aode08

mr riddler, thats one hell of a riddle , but we like paragraphs


Read the check engine light

PRO50SC

Well since the CEL is on, you should start by having the computer scanned for codes. The surging idle could be a lot of things. Vacuum leak, egr valve stuck partially open, dirty IAC valve and or throttle body just to name a few. Talk to some friends and see if they can recommend a reputable shop capable of finding the problem.


Oh and welcome to the forum!!

CCF5000

I'm no expert but i had a vehicle that did what you described and it turned out it was a faulty TPS sensor. The motor was overloaded with fuel and would stall occasionally giving it gas. Also Idle air control valve could have something to do with it i think.

mattdel

is the oil level still normal? or has it dropped since the smoke incident?

MikeVa

Wow, sounds like the clutch was not fully disengaging. This would cause the engine to almost die and the clutch dragging on the flywheel. This would explain the smell and smoke. How does the clutch pedal feel? Have you tried to adjust it?

aode08

How To Run a Self-Test Don’t worry if the Check Engine Light is not on, the computer will store lesser important codes without flashing lights in your face. First you need to find the self-test plugs to read codes from the EEC. There are 2 plugs to find. One is triangular and has 6 pins; it is called the Self-Test plug. The other is a smaller single pin plug; it is called the Self-Test Input (STI). These are what the plugs look like. The self-test plugs are located along the driver’s side fender by the firewall on 1986-95 Mustangs.






How to Prepare for the Self-Test To check for codes without buying a code reader is simple. If your EEC is wired correctly, the engine light works, and there are not any electrical faults in the vehicle you can get the codes out of your EEC.

1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Get some paper and a pen.
5. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
6. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
7. Turn key to RUN.
8. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
9. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count! If you are a lost soul that does not have a working engine light, or did not install a light into your dash don’t fret. You can still get the codes. You still need that wire to ground out the STI. Now you will need one of the following tools; digital volt meter, analog volt meter, test light, or you can hook up any other 12 volt light that does not draw more than 0.5 watts max. 1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Attach one side of the test device to the Self-Test Output (STO).
5. Attach the other lead to the positive side of the battery.
a) If you are using a digital voltmeter you’ll want to use the continuity setting.
b) If you are using an analog voltmeter you’ll be counting the meter make sweeps.
c) If you are using a cheep light you’ll count like the rest of us.
6. Get some paper and a pen.
7. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
8. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
9. Turn key to RUN.
10. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
11. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count! How To Count “Check Engine� Light Blinks When the “Check Engine� light blinks during the test you will get several different blinks, the separation time between blinks is used to indicate what information is being displayed. Turn key to RUN.
You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
The fuel pumps will stop and the EEC will now begin giving codes.
You may catch a brief flickering of the light. This is a rapid code read that is used by the code readers you can purchase. Do not worry all those rapid flashes you just say flicker buy will now be given at a slower pace of ½, 2, & 4 second pauses.
First digit of first KOEO code (1/2 second between blinks)
2 second pause
Second digit of first KOEO code (1/2 second between blinks)
4 second pause
Next KOEO code
Once all KOEO codes are read the EEC will repeat them
6 second pause
Single Separator Blink (this indicates the change from KOEO codes to CM codes)
6 second pause
Codes from Continues Memory (uses same 1/2, 2, and 4 second timing as KOEO codes and also repeats them)

NYMustang50

By the way check engine lights dont go out unless its cleared. So it could be all fixed but it will not go out untill its cleared by scan tool, jumping the wires, or just un pluging the battery for awhile.