anthros

Iam still trying to decide what valvetrain style to install. this will be going into a 408 stroker, 12-1 comp, 225cc heads, looking to make power n/a. I have heard that hydralic is best for street use due not having to continualy adjust the valve train, but i have heard hydralic cams dont like to rev over 6.2-6.8k before lifter problems arise, i would like to rev to around 7.5-7.8k to make the best power n/a. would a plain roller can be able to acomplish this? Also which one produses more power? isnt it flat tappet since the lobes are steaper?

tinman

Sounds like you need the mechanical roller for what you want to do.
I've used mechanical cams all my life and believe me, you don't need to be 'constantly adjusting' anything if you do things right the first time........

92GreyGT

Mechanical roller. You can get hydraulic rollers to rev that high but the maintenance and cost will be more than it is worth. This is mainly done is class racing situations.

HemiTCoupe

If you have the choice, Don't use flat tappet cam. Todays oildoesn'thave the zinc and other additives to keep them fromeating each other. Most motors are now roller, so they can remove it for cleaner air. Thereare oils you can use, but you have to find them, not just get it anywhere. I run diesel oil in my 406 in my El Camino to keep the lifters from killing the cam. I won't put together another flat tappet motor again.
I run synthetic oils in my Hemi because it's also flat tappet.

Pat

92civy

what about my clevor setup (351w with 351c heads)? Mechanical or hydraulic roller? Revving to about 7.5k also, and street/strip car.

Sorry for the hijack.

HACKGT350

its really all preferance do you want to take the time and adjust the valve train ever once in a while or just through hydraulic in and never have to worry about it? they are both good and both work great. regular roller beats the **** out of your valve train in the end they just dont last as long. they both rev out high it all depends on what you buy you cant buy cheap stuff and hope it holds up.

92civy

ok hydraulic it is here, lol.

my77stang

you can get a flat tappet (hyd or mech) to rev higher than a roller easier because the lifters arent as heavy. an easy way to solve this is to install a rev kit (or w/e the hell they are called) in the lifter valley so there are extra springs pushing directly down on the lifters.

you only need to worry about the zinc additives and such when your breaking in a cam, but even then its not like a required thing. i broke in my flat tappet with pennzoil 10w40 dino and the lobes and lifters looked brand new after about 10,000 miles. if a cam is gonna bite the dust it happens within about 500-1000 miles (i know, because i had a summit cam f*ck the pooch once)

IF you can control the floating of the lifters, mechanical roller would make the best power.

86HOGT

If you have good pushrods and posi-lock rocker nuts then you shouldn't have to worry about adjusting a solid roller cam all the time. There's an entire article in Hot or Car Craft recently that explains all the differences, advantages, and power, and rev capability between all types of cams.

tinman

IMHO, the ultimate power/torque is the mechanical roller set-up.
They can cost some real money to set-up however.
The ramp opening//closing rates per degree cannot be beaten by any flat tappet set-up.
Valve springs are out there that are much better tan what was for sale even 10 years (thanx to NASCAR Busch racers) that the springs will last for nearly ever......
Just don't get carried away, degrees of duration at .050 are just that whether it's a flat tappet or mechanical roller..........