silver91gt

i have the comp link bar lifters, and found they are just noisey, i did the same thing, reset the preload like 4 times and the noise didnt go away, i think its just the sound of the sliders moving around

i ran it this season with no problems

stanguy306

Hi Silver91....you know whats funny I was thinking the samething but my noise is louder than my flowmasters....LOL....what did you set your preload at? Guy at comp told me to do "zero" lash and set it there....I was like???? I've been doing 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn? thanks bud

silver91gt

1/4 turn past 0 lash worked for me so far

67mustang302

My pedestals call for 1/4-1 full turn to torque after 0 lashin order for proper preload. Most stud setups are smiliar, look at what the instructions say. 1/4-3/4 or 1/4-1 etc gets you the necessary .020-.060" lifter preload

silver91gt

thats what the lifters require, it has nothing to do with the type of rocker on there

tireboil25

i think those link bars are noisey as all get out. Are the link bars facing tward the center of the block? If you check out how loose the link bars are on the lifters it's no question that they are going to be pretty loud.

stanguy306

ok this sux....check this out....so today I reset the valves at 1/4 turn....then heard this crazy knocking so it was different then my intial ticking....it ran for like 1 sec....wait it gets better....so I pulled it back apart for the 1000th time ha....inspected the pushrods and saw a whole new line/groove on them...so here's what happened....the intial lifter noise I had was the lifters not pumping up...at 1/2 or 3/4 turn...then when I re-set them at 1/4 turn....they pumped up and hit the piston at least I think....so what I did is pulled the push rods and dropped in the stock ones and once again set them at 1/4 turn....and the motor spins freeley (like 0 compression) but then it fired and ran like it was running on 2 cylinders....any ideas? I'm thinking I bent a valve or few.....this is fun [:'(]

stanguy306

Hey guys, ok I took off the heads (had to, to get the stupid lifters out) and the valves look good along with the pistons indicating no ptv contact...I dont know what all this noise was I'm just going to put it back together with stock replacements....people keep telling me that should solve my problem but I'm still unsure...thanks

Joel5.0

If you had the bad luck of getting a defective set of linked lifters......let them know...... not just the fact of all the problems you've gone through, but let them know that there are others (us, of course) that are "sharing" your experience with their product....... if you don't have a brand new set of lifters, no charge, overnight.........

However, make sure you check the valve train geometry and that you determine the correct PR length for your setup. My

stanguy306

Yeah I just dont understand....one thing the guy at comp said was if I overtightened them initially that could cause damage to the lifter....I was like what the hell? None the less...I'm going to swap out the lifters with stock ones "if" that solves my problem I will no the link lifters were at fault then I will point fingers...haha....

true about the geometry in my case its pretty simple nothing crazy...just a 1.6 rocker and mild B cam..."should" be ok....I'm running the pushrods that came with the heads...about a 6.400 length...I did also swap those out and used a set of stock ones just because...and they got all scratched and grooved weird....my heads on this motor are from 1910 LOL...they are old holly's were everything is specific just for them...like the egr tube in the back is longer....and they run specific guide plates....they just suck....but since they are ported and all that...I keep em...