BunnMan

Mine idles at 800 and the needle dipswiththe blinker as well, with the headlights on it drops a volt or so and still dips, turn the radio on itdrops more, interior light even more, fog lights more, on and on with additional power consumtion at idle when the alternatr isn't producing much juice due to the slow speed it's turning.

Fuse #7 is a spare and is not usedso it doesn't seem thereshould be any loss there, keep looking.

I Don't intend to get in a match with Cobrakiller here but the ammeter is the best way to find a circuit that's drawing downyour battery when the car is not in use. A voltmeter will read voltage available on many circuits with the key off because there are many of them thatshould have power available still (headlights, dome light, ...etc.) but only the ammeter will show which of those circuits is actually using power and how much.

Now, measuring voltage drops on feedbackcircuits and such may help you determine ifyou wired the alternator correctly, not sure about that, never swapped in an alternator from a different car. Maybe Cobrakiller is the authority on that one (no flame intended). Comparing the schematic for yours against the one for the car the alternator came out ofought to square that away for you. Honestly, I kind of think that part of the problemis totally due to the underdrive pulleys turning theaccessories including the alternator slower. The voltage regulator is limitting output voltage to 14 according to your report so it woud seem that's in decent working order as well. I don't care what the capacity of the alternator is, until you spin it fast enough it's not going to make enough power to charge. Most charging systems barely work atidleanyway, yours is turning slower than stock at idle so it's doing just short of nothing to keep up with demand. Might try turning the key on without starting and compare your dash voltmeter readings to those you observed with it running to see if the alternator is helping, hurting, or doing nothing at idle.

I doubt the alternator is causingyour discharge problem while the car sits but to confirm that, disconnect it with the ammeter clamped on the positive cable and see if the amp draw goes away. If it does, Voila! Problem found!

Have you clamped the ammeter on with the key off yet tosee what the draw is?

God bless,

-BunnMan

aode08

take the pulley off the alternator and get a bigger one, is another option.

primetime5.0

that really isnt the correct way to wire up the 3g, you need a dedicated power and leave the 2 orange and black wires off. You are risking having a fire with it wired that way

crusin92red5.0

so exactly how do i wire this alt? Are you saying that all i need is a wire directly to the battery and leave the two orange and black wires off?

primetime5.0

I have a 4 gauge wire straight to the starter solonoid, and I left the 2 orange and black wires off those 2 wires arent large enough to carry the extra amperage properly

crusin92red5.0

i'm a little confused. which setting do i check the volts/amps- there is ACA,DCA,DCmV,DCV,ACV. i know its DC but i've tried all of them and there is no significant pull. if anyone could help me narrow it down that would be great
thanks


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Jmnail4

I had this problem to i upgraded to a g3 altnernator and that seems to have fixed it. I run a 1000 watt stereo and a high energy ignition system so i need the extra amps

5ohcasey

Yea but if runnin the 4 gauge also it shouldent matter if the 2 orange and black wires are hooked cause they wont be carrying the full charge there all 3 sharing it not? I ran my 4 gauge wire to the battery which is the same diff. i just dident like havin to run the wire under the solonoid cover and try fitting it on the short stud.

bamaroxz

Sounds like the thing to do as much time as you have spent on it. Check this link, use this on my 5.0 and works great, one wire hook up, your done. The problem I had was a fusible link wire was exposed. I had to take the battery out cause after #3 O'Rielly alts it killed the batt. I saw the wire on the third try and replaced the fusible link. I could not see mine until I pulled the batt cause it was like up under the batt tray. BUT, mine would just flat out die. No up n down voltage like yours is, but it's worth a look. I had the Powermaster on order already when I had to replace the O'Rielly alt and fixed the fusible link, but when my 140 AMP came in, I stuck it in, one wire, and it's been about 2 years now, no problems. Good luck dude, sounds like a bummer man.



http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

house302

arent you suppose to run a 4gauge wire from positive hookup on the alternator directly to the battery?